When I bought my N6.0, It was an original. I snapped the mast off a couple months ago and replaced it with a mast with double diamond wires(NA mast). I still have a small square top main(sq footage in line with 6.0 orig),a self tacking Jib, and a spinnaker. Is my boat considered a NA, or an Orig.? Also, If it is an NA, and I opt to get a larger main, can I make up some of the lost sf from the self tacking jib and add it to the overall sf if the boat(by adding over 3% to the main?

BTW, we had a mixed regatta with the local (Phoenix and Tucson, AZ) Hobie fleets in rocky point Mexico over the weekend. Had around 40 masts on the beach. This was very exiting to see as numbers have been dwindling over the past years. Thanks to the Hobie fleets for including our "all cat's" fleet in their lineup. I am looking forward to more of the same this spring for the Piñata Regatta in April and for years to come. All cats, as it should be!

Go with a N/A square top from E/P. Change out your self tacker track with a curved one and add a clew plate to your jib and run it. Call it a N/A or not, really won't matter unless someone wants to split hairs and call you out on the DPN.

you still have a frankenboat. To properly use the DPN, you need to take the correction factor for a smaller jib and a larger non-factory main (they are in there for both). the DPN correction factor does not take into account moving sail area from the jib to the main and calling it "even" (although, it's possible the correction factors will come out very close that way - I haven't looked to see).

Frankenboat factors;

The original 6.0na pinhead had a section of sail that went to the bottom of the mast.(you can do that with boomless rigs). With that removed and a samll amount off the leach you can build a nice squarehead and stay within the same sail area of 6.0na sail area. This is only a .995 hit. According to the tables Same Sail Area: within 5% of Calculated Approximate Sail Area .
You get nothin for downsizing the jib. Only if you remove it.
The other option(providing the self tacking jib is the same size as the 6.0 original) is rate as a 6.0 original with a larger main and take the .980 hit.
If you have a spin you take a .960 hit.
You also have to take a .995 hit for the selftacking jib. Does not matter if the size is the same it is a mod from the original one-design. See this section:

Other

Any other deviations from standard class configurations, including the addition of wings, can be assessed a penalty of at least 0.995. Multiple deviations may incur multiple penalties. Penalties may be greater than 0.995. Please identify any such modifications and penalties assigned and include with results reported to the handicap committee and Portsmouth Numbers Committee.

To clarify, this can't be done. The original is an overlapping jib.

The difference between the NA and the original was the addition of the bridal foil complimented with the larger jib.

The 6.0 always had the foil. Although at first it was a round bar rather than foil shaped. The original had the self tacker only with a straight track, it really doesn't work well if you sheet the jib in too much. The N/A had the overlapping jib, bigger main and double diamonds.

no kidding? The original 6.0 had a self tacker? I did not know that.

This boat has an interesting history. The original owner bought it new to do the Worrell and never did it. There were about 8 of these made by Roy Seaman that is boats with self tackers, spinnaler set up and a few other goodies. This boat sat in a warehouse for a number of years and then the owner sold it.

I looked at another 6.0 NA recently that was the stock set up with no self tacker.

I had a 6.0NA and it definitely did not have a self-tacker. It had that jib that would "make you slap your mama" on a reach.

The big jib on the N/A is like having overdrive on a reach. Yes Jake, the original ones had that set up. There are very few out there. I've seen only two of them.

Nothing like a 5.8N/A or a 6.0 on a screaming reach with that big ole jib.

AZCats boat one of kind, well in his case 8 of a kind.

There are a few other 6.0's running around here we refer to as Roy's Toys. There is one where he had moved the bridal tangs to the front of the bows with a custom made slag of stainless steel the looked like something out of Mad Max, put a gargantuan jib on it, raked the dickens out of the mast, and swore it didn't need a spinnaker. I seem to recall Team Chums beating him back with his H21 w/spinnaker - he just forgot to take in down once inside the harbor and got disqualified from the race. There is another one where he took a 5.8 (the boat he designed) lengthened it to a 6.0 gave it 9.5 foot beam - the true Frankinboat. One day the owner and I took it out and drove it hard, that thing hauled butt!!!

I too owned a N6.0na. I always thought that the original N6.0 had a slightly smaller mast, and a standard bridle for the jib, (no foil) that sheeted to the front crossbar on a straight track, not a curved one. I have only seen one of them, and really don't remember where or when.

If the boat were mine, I would probably call it a 6.0 original with a replacement mast. I am not sure if they could hit you for .995 for the taller mast. The rules for the 6.0 were pretty open. There was a version called the Prosail 20. I am pretty sure I saw a Prosail 20 with a double diamond mast. I would look at the rules for the 6.0 original and the Prosail 20.

If I remember correctly, the sailmaker for the original 6.0 was open. So, a first rate set of 6.0 racing sails would not carry any penalty. You might ask EP what they think.

My experiments showed the original jib pointed higher than the big jib on the 6.0na. Since we rarely run a B mark anymore, the speed on a reach doesn't help in a race.

Enjoy your boat. It's unique and a bit of history

Lee, I already added a curved jib travler, love it. Also added the high aspect sq top main and new jib . I raced over the weekend and was rated as a NA because I recently snapped a mast and replaced it with a new NA mast. Wondered if that was right. The jib is about the same size as the boats original jib, and the main is not much bigger that original.

While I have your attention, I have another question that you may be able to help me with.

I am rinning an F-18 spin. Whenever the wind is over, say, 13mph, as I come out of a jibe(or set the spin), I turn up until the spin fully powers up, and then attempt to turn down.
I cant figure out if the crew is stalling the spin until I am too close to a reach (i always end up with different crew- in experienced), I cant see the tell tales from helm, Once it powers up, "Wet Kitty" wants to launch me like a catapult over the top of the mast unto the water.
When I feel the spin power up, i pull on the tiller and try to turn down, but it is nearly always too late. Windward hull rises very quick;ly, bow submerges immediately, OOOOH S@#$! I nearly capsize way too often. The boat just dosnt seem to power up until I am way too close to a reach.
If the crew lets out the sheet till the spin starts running when I am pointed more down wind, the luff collapses as soon as we start powering up. And we never seem to fully power up even if they can sheet it till the tells are streaming.

WTF am I doing wrong, or not fast enough?

BTW, total crew weight is around #380 on average.

Ventucky, Thanks for the info on the boat. Maby I'll letter out "Roys Toys" somewhere on the boat one day.
I agree, a cool peice of cat history.

What is the hit for the air injection to wetted surfaces that I added? I cant find that in the calcs.

Thanks forthe info. I guess then I need to figure out which way works better then. Start with 6.0 NA and figure mods; and 6.0 orig, then figire mods.

Sounds like your crew has it over sheeted and you gotta come to high to get the airflow attached again, then the hull pops up dramatically. Crew should ease the chute more while you two heat the boat and sail back up together. Like you guys are meeting halfway to get going again. Did you put on a spinn pole that is the right length? Which F18 was the chute made for? How tight is your luff tension when it's up? Should be a 45* to 90* turn with your fist on the luff when sheeted in. Lots of variables here and I hope others can chime in. I'll be on the road to Annapolis for the next two days.

AZCAT why don't ya'll bring the little pussy (cat) on over to Ventucky where the wind blows dogs of chains, and we'll drive that bad boy like no ones business.

Next time I head to PHX on business I'll look ya up maybe we can get some water time.

Shoot me a PM

yup. Tell the crew to ease off the lazy sheet a little longer and sail the kite through as much of the gybe as possible. That WaaahhhBahhh-YeeeHaaaw is a good way to put it pointy side in.

PS - I hate tales on the spinnaker. I think they're misleading and you do better by learning to feel how the kite is pulling and by the shape of the luff....but then again, it might have been that 540 miles I sailed for Carl Roberts when every 3 minutes I was asked if the tales were flowing on the kite (which they usually were - even when sheeted to high heaven). I definitely disliked tales on the spin after that. ;-)

The chute is off a Nacra f-18. Pole is 11'4" to the tip of the end pole hoop.
As fat as luff tension, I was pulling it all the way p and then letting off about 6", This put a lot of curl in the luff so I let it off till the sail flattened out ( about 18" ) seemed to help some the next day, but the winds were lighter also.
I will set it as you describe next time I go out and will mark the sheet.