Not ready yet but close! were do I buy parts like Dolphin striker , mast base and step, spreaders, Rudder boxes (the "P" shape out of alloy 19 x 19 box)just general things like this or am I better buying a cheap mozzie and stripping this for the parts? I'm assuming I can still buy beams and mast sections from the association? I should have at least one hull built soon Cheers Damien

Wasn't there a striker on the beam I sent you?

Damo, its not a good idea to use 2nd hard parts, works sometimes but no always.

Mast sections beams you can get from assoc, mast base and plug from AHPC, and spreaders and spanner, you can get them from greg goodall (Pricey) or from myself.

Alt i can build a mast and boom for u or the parts at your request.

Matt

Hi Damo, are you familiar with the design and construction of the alloy rudder boxes? If so, can you assemble a set? I can supply parts and instructions for you to assemble. Details available when you reply to:- [email protected]

Thanks Guys.
Chris- A mate of mine needed a striker as a loan till I was ready needless to say its still on his boat so I will need to get one of these soon for my new boat.

Matt- Thanks this helps and I agree with new gear, I was only asking for second hand if parts if these are hard to come by. I will defiantly give you a call when both hulls are done and Im ready to ship gear to QLD

Phillip- Kit form will be fine "thank you" I would rather new gear as allot of effort is going into the boat at this stage and would be a shame to have to re-vamp old gear

Thanks every one, saves me buying an old boat to pillage. If interested I will post pics of the build at different stages. Cheers Damo

OK Damo, need details for postage (Australia Post) so contact me via email as in previous message.
Phillip P

Hey Guy's
What type of timber is used for beam blocks? I was going to use cedar for the inwales but wasn't sure if cedar would be to soft for the beam bolts to tighten up on.
Cheers.

PS I have some build photos but to big to upload here, Will try to scale them down. :-)
Damo

Damo try and track down some G10 (or G11) for your pads. You want it at about 1.5x the diameter of the bolts. The other advantage beyond hardness and the total lack of rot is it can be drilled and tapped so you get rid of the fwd inspection ports.

Hey Chris.
Is this the same as the paneling called "Coosa" that gets laminated both sides for strength. If not what is this and were can I buy this?
Cheers
Damo

This stuff. It is quite hard to find in Aus, given your location try ATL.

By inwales I'm assuming you're refering to the cleats in the gunwales. You mould has a return on it to create a composite flange to bond the decks to so you shouldn't need the timber. A small foam wedge under this flange would be a good idea to hold it up and stop it acting like a hinge.

Thanks Chris,
I use ATL and placing a order shortly so I will make the enquiry, also thanks for the tip with the foam wedge ;-) cheers

Damo,

just looking at your photos over at catsailor.net. If you want to get really fancy lay up some double bias (+/-45) glass on a mould made out of a sheet of corregated ali and use that to make your bulkheads.

Thanks Chris.
I have saved the larger off cuts from the Sportboat, (pre laminated panels from ATL)as you see in the pics and was using these as the main beam stations. I love clear timber so I will be covering the deck with ply and 2oz cloth for strength and best UV.

I do have this question for any one reading that might be able to help, what is the best ply to use on Mozzie Decks? I have used Caboon in the past, but there is a fairly new ply replacing the Caboon called "Goldcore Light Plywood" apparently is 38% lighter then Marine Ply and for a 2440 x 1220 of 4mm its $39.30 per sheet. Any feed back would be good as I'm ready to start ordering this part of the build.
Thanks
Damo ;-)

The lightweight plys use low density timbers ( balsa or similar) near the neutral axis. That weight saving is compared to hoop pine which is about 10% heavier than Gaboon. Do the plans call for 3 or 4 mm decks? You might find it hard to get 3mm in which case the light ply could be a good option.

Thanks Chris, I have been back and forward through the plans and cant find any ware the deck thickness is recommended. I will double check tomorrow back at work.
Thanks again
Damo ;-)

front deck 3mm ply mid deck 7mm, but most people use two layers of 3mm ply.

Damo,

lying in bed last night thinking of you.........

Don't use the lightweight ply. The low density laminates will have a long porus structure and any moisture that gets into them will wick along that length causing rot right through the deck (like early balsa structures before people started using end grain).

Thanks Guys'
I'll head down to Pacific Timbers today and have a look there, they specialize in cedars, and exotic ply etc. If no joy there I will use Coosa from ATL and laminate both sides (just wont have the timber look).

Cheers.

PS: Lying in bed thinking of me!!! (worried) LOL

Seek a copy of the building instructions from the national web site. http://www.theracingcat.com/index.php?page=the-shop Decks can be 4mm gaboon but it must be supported. Several options; stringers running forward/aft or I beams across especially for the mid decks. This latter method is very strong, light but slower to build. See the instructions for both methods. No need for glass, this just adds weight, but epoxy resin (2 coats) must be applied to undersides before attaching ply to the hulls.
PM me if you need specific details as I am very familiar with timber build.
Reread of post appears hulls are glass/foam sandwich. Nothing stopping you from using timber build methods to close in the decks. I cannot source 3mm gaboon ply anywhere in Oz. If anyone can, please tell me where!! As before 1 layer of 4mm will hold up (17+years) if engineered properly. (I have seen some failures due to poor/quick build methods.) Oregon for beam pads will be strong. Source some older samples with close growth rings, (no second growth as the tree grows too quickly resulting in inferior quality). Fix pad across the hulls with the annual rings horizontal so the bolting force is across them. Using large bearing plates under the nuts will spread the loads so the timber will not be compressed. I used 2 -3mm aluminium. All timber to be coated with epoxy resin, as in the WEST system. See the building instructions.

Thanks Philip, Yes I love the timber look and thanks for the tip with epoxy. You can buy all the Gaboon you want from a company called "Boatcraft" In Logan-Brisbane, they will ship Aus wide. They quoted me today $54 per sheet 3mm. Boatcraft are timber boat building suppliers www.boatcraft.com.au When I get to the deck stage I might send you some pics to see what you think. Thanks for your help and build info "much appreciated"
Cheers
Damo

If you order thin gaboon make sure you reserve the right to return it at their cost if its ****. The reason a lot of people don't sell it anymore is because the quality had dropped so much that they end up carrying a lot of stock they can't move.

I know it sounded to good to be true so i'm driving to Brisvages on Monday to see for myself, they have the biggest range of Marine timber around my area.If all else fails I'l just make a composite deck and forget the timber look idea.

If you can't find good timber you could do foam sandwich with a timber veneer.

Face down on a piece of glass lay up:
Surfboard finishing glass.
Timber veneer.
Structural glass
Foam
Structural glass.

Thanks Chris, I didn't know this could be done, final lay up today, bulk heads tomorrow, Thanks once again for the tip.
Cheers

The lay-up board can be melamine surfaced chip board. Just make sure it is smooth/gloss finish, not a matt or textured. Cheaper than sheet glass and larger size readily available. Don't forget a release agent, spray film is sufficient. If preparing panels for decks, all decks are less than 2100 x 400 millimeters so one 2.4 melamine sheet is sufficient.

The point behind the glass when doing a veneer part is you can see what is happening on the mould surface and make sure there are no bubbles or dry spots. Its a system we addopted making custom solar panels for solar cars many years ago.

Thanks Philip, I was at "Boatcraft" on Monday and picked up the Gaboon ply. They let me go through the stack but I didn't have to look far as all the sheets were grait and consistent, well as far as I could see any way. sheet size were all 2440 "good size" I should be poping the hull out of the mould then all the finishing bits so hopfully I can get a weight at this stage to make sure I'm on track. I have plenty of picks but don't know how to down size the files but you can have a look over on catsailor.com under shed talk, Thanks every one for all the input its all been helpful and very much appreciated
Cheers ;

Some shots of thre Mozzie build in QLD

Glass, foam and reo in were needed

Bulkheads in ready to pop out of the mould tomorrow "fingers crossed" Sorry for the small pics!!!!

Last pic "Raw Prawn" popped out of the mould this morning, smack on 15kg with only board case and decks to go then we start all over again. I was surprised on how stiff the hull is!! thanks to every one that has helped with tips ans advice along the way. No doubt I will be asking more questions when it comes to rig etc.
Cheers
Damo

Congratulations on the birth of the first of your twins

Can't wait to see it on the water at the Wildcat Regatta at Forster , great looking paint job, I like a Mossie that stands out .

Thanks Gary
I will be pushing hard from now but work commitments are taking its toll with time at the moment but look forward to puting names to faces some day soon
Cheers
Damo

[img]http://catsailor.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1193&d=1363499754[/img]

Damo, Love the paint job. Are the black pads under the bulkheads Carbon? Good practice is to do a 25mm zig-zag (or even better yet a wave curve) edge to the pad so you don't end up with a stress concentration where it ends. If you have multiple layor there stagger their ends at least 25mm.

Hi Chris.
Thanks for that. Although the glass lay up that was used in the is mould previously recommended extra E-Glass reinforcements I have so much left over Carbon from building the sport-boat I used 400gms Uni-directional Carbon (winch was an over kill I know)what your suggesting I would totally agree.
Cheers ;-)

Hey Philip, sent you a PM
Cheers
Damo