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| Plastic pylon nuts #76103 05/24/06 11:36 PM 05/24/06 11:36 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 493 Minnesota Jeff Peterson OP
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Posts: 493 Minnesota | Two of my plastic pylon nuts have split. I went to the local Hobie dealer, to buy some new nuts. The young kid working there couldn't find any in stock. He did some cross-checking in the Hobie catalog, then said they are no longer using the all plastic nut. He then gave me some stainless nuts, with a locking nylon inset. I refused these for now. I'm suspecious of the "kid's" advise. Are the all plastic nuts no longer available ??? I'd prefer the forgiving nature of the all nylon nut.
Jeff Peterson H-16 Sail #23721 Big Marine Lake, MN
| | | Re: Plastic pylon nuts
[Re: mbounds]
#76105 05/25/06 06:14 PM 05/25/06 06:14 PM |
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 152 Central Texas yoh
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Posts: 152 Central Texas | I guess you just figured out why the Nylon nut idea was abandoned - they all split when they age. You do not have to get them from the Hobie dealer - I got mine in SS quality from the local hardware store.
Patrick
Patrick, Hobie 16 '85
| | | Re: Plastic pylon nuts
[Re: hobie1616]
#76107 05/27/06 12:16 AM 05/27/06 12:16 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 493 Minnesota Jeff Peterson OP
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Posts: 493 Minnesota | At $1.90 each for the SS Hobie nut, I could buy a handful of the plastic nuts and let them split as they wish. And it would be impossible to overtighten them.
If you use solid nuts, how much play should you allow for thermal expansion and contraction? Would using a stainless split-lock washer that is not completely tightened be the better way? (Maybe I should just buy a 1/2"-13 tap and make my own nuts.)
Jeff Peterson H-16 Sail #23721 Big Marine Lake, MN
| | | Re: Plastic pylon nuts
[Re: Jeff Peterson]
#76108 05/27/06 07:03 AM 05/27/06 07:03 AM |
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 152 Central Texas yoh
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Posts: 152 Central Texas | IIRC there is not much space for extra washers (bolt should not be long enough). Also, if you use a split lock washer you should use a regular washer to keep the split lock washer from gigging in casting. I do not think there is space for both. Do not worry about thermal expansion - the length of the bolt and the temperature difference that this thing encounters is not worthwhile worrying about. Tighten the SS nut to a point you would have tighten the nylon nut and you are good. Check the holes - in the casting and in the pylon. In my case the ones in the rear pylons and the matching castings turned oval. I decided to file them round to the next bolt size to reduce movement. I also used this opportunity to shim the pylons / castings.
Patrick, Hobie 16 '85
| | | Re: Plastic pylon nuts
[Re: hrtsailor]
#76110 05/27/06 09:08 PM 05/27/06 09:08 PM |
Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 5,582 “an island in the Pacifi... hobie1616
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Posts: 5,582 “an island in the Pacifi... | I had to replace the plastic nuts on my H-16. It seems the squirrels in my yard liked the taste of them. I bought S/S nuts with the nylon insert but the existing bolts were too short. I could thread the nuts on but they wouldn't get to the nylon so I turned the nuts around and put them on backwards. It seems to have worked alright.
Howard Unless there's a thread and a half extending out of the nut you're over stressing the threads in the nut. Spend a couple bucks and do the job right. US Sail Level 2 Instructor US Sail Level 3 Coach | | | Re: Plastic pylon nuts
[Re: hrtsailor]
#76112 06/02/06 03:41 PM 06/02/06 03:41 PM |
Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 306 St. Louis, MO hobienick
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Posts: 306 St. Louis, MO | You can always buy "short" Nylocks for that very reason. For a total of $16 you will not have to buy new nuts again... not a bad investment, especially for the peace of mind knowing they will not split at an inopportune moment.
Nick
Current Boat Looking for one
Previous Boats '84 H16 '82 H18 Magnum '74 Pearson 30 St. Louis, MO
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