Ditto, the use it as another line to tie the mast down.

It looks like the core has slipped out of the covering on my boat making everything off center. Something to watch out for if you just pull the core out without stitching.

Attatching the split ends to the beam is my problem. I like the jam cleats pictured earlier but like others, I also leave my MS rigged so I think cleats are overkill. I'd like something simple but from what I've gathered so far, both lines need to be exactly the same length so tying them off needs to be done accurately. Maybe a keyhole for a knotted end or something.

I just took a little time and made two bowline loops in the tails. I throw these over the little knobs that are on my rearbeam and that are used to lace my trampoline to. I made sure the loops are such that the split is perfectly centred. I never take my traveller line of the boat.

This setup has been working well for 18 months now. Cheap, simple and effective. No need to drill more holes in your rearbeam. Not to mention that their is absolutely no wear on the line as well.

Wouter

Thanks mate, I have mine tied to those nobs at present. That might do I guess.
Berny

It gives you leverage, and it can save weight where it attaches to the beam.

Without the split tail, the traveller car is supported by a line in the middle of a ~4" span between the cleat and the beam attachment. With this setup, the traveler car "bowstrings" the traveller line, so even with huge tension on the line, the traveller will not be perfectly centered. Centering the car requires "infinite" line tension.

With the split tail, the split forms a bridle, always supporting the car from the windward side, and eliminating the "bowstringing" effect. However, perfectly centering the car still requires 2 times the line tension as moving the car some distance out (because the line between the car an cleat leads forward, instead of to windward, as the car becomes centered).

Similarly, once you pull the car to center, the split tail system will keep the car more centered as you cleat the line, which inevitably eases the line a bit as the cleat jaws close. The split tail will ease less line because of the reduced line tension (the jaws will crush the line less) and because the traveller car moves less per millimeter of eased line (because of the absense of bow stringing).

To save weight, use the right beam mounting hardware, like
http://www.marstrom.com/item_show.asp?code_no=T211 or similar.

Better centering the traveller helps you point that much higher to windward.

I find it makes working the traveller under spin easier.

I don't know why.

Wouter