Tad that wont work its not an f16. LOL

Your diagram is how I plan to pull them down but unfortionatly you cant make a board floaty enough to self raise completely as they are already foam filled but to keep them strong the fiberglass makes them to heavy.
Put a board in the water by itself and it floats happily.
Lift one end of the board so its now vertical and half the board dissapears under water to remain afloat so I definatly need a good rasing system to fully retract the board. I need a good frictionless packing for inside the casing to stop the board from jamming. A 3 point roller system might work but it gets too fiddley and I think it would need a complicated mounting to align the rollers. So Id like to follow the K.I.S.S rule. I need the best frictionless carpet or padding. I will buy a few samples and experiment wet and dry.

I tried using bungee to raise the boards but its the distance they need to travel thats the problem. To completly raise them they need 60cm of travel which equates to aproamatley 3 meters of 10mm thick bungee per board and they will be loaded with too much tension making them very hard to lower. I have noticed the boards sit directly under the side stay which could save adding the strap under the water line. I could run a pully 200mm up the stay. Has anybody done this or used the stay in this way? pros and cons?

I am tring to keep the tramp clear of ropes so I need the rope for the lowering of the boards to run up the hull and along the front beam and onto the other board. The same setup as used for the 2:1 rudder system.
I am considering running the rope over the top of the board through a mounted roller on top of the ceterboard at a 20 deg angle compared to the usual 90 deg in relation to the board direction, so as to keep the rope running up the length of the hull.
This idea would require less pulleys to direct the rope around the tramp instead normal version which goes stright over it.

Any other suggestions or forseable problems with this idea?
Can you share the wisdom of your setup and why you think its good or bad?

Boyer used a rope system on their A cats and Taipans for quite some time. Sailed some of these boats too. The 4.9 also has the rope system. My personal experience is shared by many who also got rid of any ropes nowadays. The fear for jamming the rope between the board and the case is not worth the benefit of the system. In theory it sounds nice to go on a flyer and just pull the rope for the leeward daggerboard to lift it, but than again, you can do the same a few meters further down the track without any of these ropes too. I think nowadays very few A still use a rope system. Just didn't pay off. And once you really jammed a board you surely want to get rid of all those lines. Just imagine approaching the beach and you don't get your board up. Ends up expensive.

I nowadays glue some webbing to the case in the upper and lower part to increase enough friction the board stays up when lifted (and stays there in a capsize) and thats it. No lines, no extra weight and a clean tramp!

The 4.9 system is an old one which I have had on the 4.9, a paper Tiger and a Tiger Shark. These all worked very well and the only reason they jam is not using them properly. Jams are usually fixed by simply pulling harder. THis system is great and I am investigating doing to my 14 squared. I may us a flat web but the theory is the same.
Rope system can work very well for up and down in concert with a bungy to create tension.

I shouldn't have jamming problems I am using 3mm x .5mm polyester strap that is very small and slippery in texture.
I have tried this rope out and it works seamlessly even under large amounts of strain. But its still early days so...

Finished the line setup for the ceterboards and this is my final layout after much testing and it works very well.
see attached.