Actually, the Taipan 4.9's with the original jib (iw non-selftacker) don't have a strut so you have a line that goes from the pole up to the bridle, just as Gary has. The strut is strictly to support the luff of the jib so the jib downhaul tension stays essentially the same regardless of the tension of the forestay (vs say the typical "Hobie 16 way" where the jib forestay ends up taking all the tension with the actual wire forestay just sort of flopping around loose- this works okay for them because they have wire jib luffs and they tack to the bridle- with an F16 Blade setup you would end up with too much tension on either the jib luff material or spi pole/bridle- NOT a good thing IMO). I believe the Stealths don't use a strut either so you might look at some of their photos-
The old P19MX uses a strut and compression tube from the front beam just to get the jib lower to add power without healing and the old NACRA 6.0 uses the front compression "wing" with a pelican striker to achieve the same thing jib-wise while foregoing a front bridle in the conventional sense. I believe the Marstrom M18 uses CF "rods" at the end of the CF spi pole to both hold the pole up and support the tip without any midpole connections at all using a classic "A" cat style twin forestay setup for yet another option-- <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />
I personally feel with the flatter, newer style spinnakers the blocks should be inboard like Gary has them (at least on a uni-where theres on jib in the way-haven't sailed enough with jib and spi to have a feeling about that setup).

Kirt