Hi,

You kind of have the idea but not quite the execution. Here's how I "THINK" it would be rigged.

First you need a "Harken Micro Triple Block tied to a piece of 1/4"dia line approximentlly 18" long ... that gets rigged through the grommet on the sail and down to the "JR Jam Cleat on the side away from the "Cheek Blocks" with the block dangling under the sail, OK?

Next, Take your downhaul line and tie one end to the "padeye" just above the "Cheek block" in the middle ... take the line UP through the "Triple Block"(end sheeve) ... then down and through the "Cheek Block" in the front ...UP again and through the "Triple Block"(middle) ... then down and through the middle "Cheek Block" (just below the padeye) ... back UP to the "Triple Block"(other end) then down and through the "Exit Block" in the "Luff Track" .... OK???? You may need to try different orders of threading to eliminate any "crosses/twists" so the line feeds CLEANLY.

Now, here's the "Trick" to the system ... to remove the sail, just remove the single line attached to the "Triple Block" from the "Jr Jam Cleat" and out of the "Grommet" ... and the sail is ready to come down.

Not a bad of a system actually. Now what alot of us have is what you have on the one side of your mast on BOTH sides of our masts w/ two "Exit Blocks". This will double the ratio of the downhaul, make it continious and makes it adjustable from both sides. (we tie the downhaul to the traps or shrouds on either side so as to reachable on either tack. To lowwer the sail we just untie the "Triple Block" from the sail ... leaving the rest of the downhaul rigged.

Next, I'm not sure ... but I think you have the wrong "Mast Rotator Control Arm" or at least there is a "Up-Graded" part (Mast Over-Rotator Arm availible at Murray's P/N 25-3040 or 25-3041 {different size bolt holes}) ... This type of "rotator control arm" allows the mast to be over-rotated for increased performance downwind.

Harry Murphey