Mike,

While I agree that that is certainly a step above a hand layup, I don't believe you're getting all the benefits of vacuum bagging by the same layup. I, however, do feel like it's completely adequate for what you are doing though.

Also note that standard polyethylene plastic (available in rolls at any hardware or common store) work just fine for top layer vacuum film and neither side will stick to a cured laminate. In this regard, there's nothing magic about that 3M plastic (other than the price).

One quickie way I vacuum bag is to take a large piece of lexan and put it on my bench. I tape (using masking tape) a piece of polyethylene plastic to the lexan (to keep the lexan reusable). This bottom sheet can be inside or outside your bag seal. I then layup the part to be vacuumed, run mastic tape (thick sticky tape available for about $7 for a 25' roll) around the perimeter of the part either on the taped plastic or the lexan. With the perforated bleeder ply and bleeder fabric in the layup (on both sides if needed) and a small trail of bleeder ply connecting everything to make a vacuum flow zone, I just place one piece of polyethylene plastic over the layup pressing it to the mastic (leaving some slack to draw up). I also use 1/4" high pressure vinyl tubing (the cheap stuff) to make the vacuum connection...which makes sealing it very easy as it's nearly the same thickness as the mastic tape...it's not like you need to pull much volume so the small tubing works just fine.

Coupled with a pair of electric shears (cuts bleeder fabric like butter!), it really doesn't take much time or materials to vacuum bag smallish flat pieces.

I've also found that vacuum bagging to a rigid surface helps prevent deformation. Old counter tops work great too.

PS - I'm loving the sprit tube!