One the N20 1:1 is fine, just awarkward that the cleat moves with the traveler car.

Most of us have changed that back to mounting the cleat in the center of the rear beam. I did on both the 20 and the F18 (I had one old 6.0 casting mount I used on the F18 and bought a Kevlar composite center mount from Layline for the 20)....and it's actually 2:1.

yeah planned todo that this spring, but will have to wait for summer. With the cleat in the center its 2:1, but when the cleat is on the car its 1:1 isn't?

it's still 2:1 even though the cleat is on the car, you still have to pull in 2' of line to move the traveler 1'.

Long tails though huh? I just did mine on new V2 and not sure I want to redo it but then again the line is pretty damn long.

yeah, but to take full advantage of having a split tail, the split must enter the rollers on the traveler and end just before the cleat when centered.

Tanks! I R idiot.

Makes sense, I find it hard to tie them correctly so that happens. I think I will redo it tonight when I am ignoring the idiots that come see me at 3am for stupid crap <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Oh and while we are on the subject and deviating from the original post... what type of lock stitch or method do you use (or whoever may have done your split tail) to lock the point at which the core comes out of the tail? I do the standard whiplock in/out x3 but also run the core back through the cover once. I tried the heat shrink tubing- bad idea, doesn't thread up the car very well at all.