I am writing this proposal to be presented to the class to amend an existing class rules for the Inter 20. I propose that rule number 4.6 be changed so that a self-tacking jib system may be installed. It may be a Performance Catamaran original or of the owners design.
<br>The new system on the Nacra F18 should be an easy retrofit. A new jib would have to be designed to work with the self-tacking system. I propose that the new design jib be made from Mylar or Pentex for greater life.
<br>I would also propose a change of allowed materials for trap wires. I suggest that a non-metallic material be allowed. There is a safety concern with the use of metallic trap lines. A non-metallic material could be easily cut in an emergency situation.
<br> Any comments, suggestions or additions?<br><br>

Barry,
<br>Trap can only be wire?
<br>Bruce<br><br>

I have also been interested to read on madforsailing.com about the self-tacking jib on the new Nacra F18 boat. It would be neat to get this retrofitted to the I20, assuming it worked out.<br><br>I have no problems changing the trap lines to line, but I think the wear/tear/uv/chafe/etc damage would be a problem - it seems (from what I've read) that the lifetime of synthetic trap wires wouldn't be as long as wire.<br><br>Also, I see very few (almost none) catsailors who have a knife anywhere on their boat, much less on their PFD where it could do some good in an emergency (I have one where I can get it 1-handed). I think this would do much more good than changing trap wires, since 98% of tangles are going to be in sheets/halyards, or perhaps trapped uner the tramp or sail.<br><br>Sail fast and have fun,<br>Alan Thompson<br>I20 - San Diego<br><br>

The retrofit is fairly simple. The traveler track will attach to the beam because the F18 and I20 have the same beams. Two jam cleats would have to be added to the top of the beams. The big deal is the jib would be different. It needs to be shorter in the foot because the sheeting angle is different. Anyone who is racing a lot is replacing jibs every 1.5 years anyway. The sheeting system is the same as the mast rotator on the I20.
<br>The new trap lines would allow you to use non-metalic if you wanted. I don't think I would use them but it would be nice to have the choice.<br><br>

Barry,
<br>
<br>I don't own an I20 so take this with a grain of salt. However I have sailed one quite a bit as I'm sure you remember.
<br>
<br>I would be against anything but wire for the trap wires. It's really a safety issue. Wire simply is better for this use. It's smaller and resistant to wear. The last thing I want is people falling off I-20's in the ocean with the crew having no hope of righting the boat. I just think people will use other stuff and it will wear or be sold to someone who doesn't know that it wears.
<br>
<br>I'm intrigued by the Self Tacking Jib. I understand how the car would work but I don't understand how the crew would take the sheet with them from one side to the other. Would the crew have to pass the jib sheet in front of the mast? Would you still use the same Harken jib cleat? Maybe you could refer us to a picture somewhere or post one of the system. The place where it would be most useful is on the downwind jibes. We were contantly getting the chute set and then going back to the jib which was a slow process.
<br>
<br>Mike Hill
<br>H20 #791
<br><br><br>

Interesting... the original N6.0 was designed to be a spinnaker rigged cat for the worrell with a self tacking smaller jib and bridles instead of a foil... the market rejected it and the NA retrofit converted these all to foils, big jibs and that nasty jib sheeting system. So here we are back to the future...
<br>
<br>The 6.0 self tacking was a single oxen block mounted in the center of the tramp just behind the mast. That was a great boat to sail compared to the current system especially for the crew.
<br>
<br>Can someone point to a picture of the N-F18 jib system? I would be interested in this change.<br><br>Mike Teets
<br>Dublin, Ohio
<br>I20 #246
<br>M4.3 #59

Mike
<br>most pictures are at www.cathouse1.com
<br>e-mail me for more not displayed.
<br>Trap wires will not change.........<br><br>

I race sport boats (mono slugs w/BIG A spin's) and cats.... On many many many of the performance monohulls the standard wire backstays are replaced with spec 12 or V-12 line. These things support a whole heck of a lot more weight than our trap wires ever do.... If that line fails then falling in the water is the least of your problems. The stick hitting you on the head while it falls is what you have to watch out for. Those boats don't get babied very much. I have a friend who has a spec 12 backstay on his boat, it's been on there for 3 years... no problems yet. The whole reason for the lince replacement is less windage and weight aloft... I'd do it if I had the choice. Just some data: 1/8" 7*19 wire = 1760 lb break strength, V-12 3mm = 1900 lb, 1/8" spec 12 = 1900 lb. ~same strenght... less weight... can cut and replaced easier than wire... it also gives more flexability in adjustment.. just cut to suit you... if you run more rake, no more ordering special wires.
<br>
<br>my 2 cents
<br>
<br>Will<br><br>

Once again there is alot of non-information here. I have both the line (in my case dyneema) trapwires and dropped my stick.
<br>
<br>" Line trapwires unsafe"? That is plain BS. So many of us at our club are using them for about 4 years now and NONE have dropped a crew.
<br>
<br>"Line trapwires are buncy" Nonsense, get the right line.
<br>
<br>"Does it save weight ?" Hell yes, and no more slapping our wearing down your sailpockets.
<br>
<br>"Is it cheap ?" A new trapLINE will cost a much a can of coke per meter (3 yards) Now do the math yourself.
<br>
<br>"Dropping a stick dagerous ?" Not true, The falling stick it self just glides slow downward NO BANG. Oly danger the tensioned wire which is breaking, I has mass, sharp edges and alot of velocity (like a whip). Dyneema lines ? NO MASS, NO sharp break surface, Hardly any elasticity and therefor would whip as fiercely.
<br>
<br>I've been using the same dyneema line now for two years and I can't find any wear worth mentioning. I also rig me genaker pole with dyneema.
<br>
<br>Wouter
<br><br><br>

Thanks Mark<br><br>Mike Teets
<br>Dublin, Ohio
<br>I20 #246
<br>M4.3 #59

Mark,
<br>
<br>I looked at the F18 photos at www.cathouse1.com. They are great photos but I didn't see any of the jib layout. Does anyone have any of how this auto-tacking jib works. Any boat will due. I'm just curious how the lines are run.
<br>
<br>Mike Hill
<br>H20 #791
<br><br><br>

I remember that somebody posted those on the old forum a long time ago....but ...hmmm.... let's see....the old forum doesn't keep things back that far! (yeah that was a shameless plug - but I really do remember seeing that on there).<br><br>[color:blue][b]Jake
<br>[color:blue][b]Nacra 5.2 (2112)

A good picture of the F18 auto tacking jib can be seen at
<br>www.f18.nl
<br>
<br>go to the News tab and scroll down.
<br>
<br>You'll just have to deal with the music<br><br>

Here is a link to a pretty good picture. Cool looking track on the front of the F18. And the jib lines look like they are both run out to the crew to sheet with. Anyway after looking at the picture I think it would be a positive addition to the I20. It would be great not to have to mess with the jib on the Jibes.
<br>
<br>Here is the link:
<br>http://www.f18.nl/Pics/F18_Nacra_F18_3.jpg
<br>
<br>Mike Hill
<br>H20 #791
<br><br><br>

Hey Barry,
<br>I am all for alternatives to wire!!
<br>The self tacking jib could take it or leave it.
<br><br><br>

Hey Barry,
<br>I am all for alternatives to wire!!
<br>The self tacking jib could take it or leave it.
<br><br><br>