My project lives at work and I try to spend approximately 2 hours every Tuesday & Thursday afternoon. Except for the last month. I must thank Phill who comes up and helps out when he gets a chance.
I would like to congratulate all the people working on their home builds and renovations. You have to love a class that allows for everything from full spec productions boats to people cutting and shutting A’s and mosquitos to the DYI home builds, and even then their experimenting with different production methods.
This photo shows the hulls standing up next to racks of core-cell.
All the rear deck supports are in and shaped, and the fairing process has started. I have used S Fair 600. Its easy to use, just mix 50 - 50 Hardener & Resin, apply, and it will set over night. The deck supports have been fitted with Spa bond 345 slow. It is a dual cartridge that is squeezed into a mix head and applied as if you were using a silicone gun.
Teach them how to think.
Not what to think.
Aus
Blade 002
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Re: Blade 002
[Re: TonyJ]
#104895 04/26/0707:02 AM04/26/0707:02 AM
If you have applied any bog to a car you will know that it's impossible to get the surface spot on first go.
The same applies here, you use a long sanding board and sand until the high spots of the keel jus start to appear. Do this to the entire length that has been faired. You will notice that you still high and low spots. In some cases I will hit glass and still have low spots. At least now the low spots won't be as low as when I started. Repeat the process, but this time I won't need to apply as much. If Iam lucky it should be just how the plans say after two goes. If Iam really fussy, I might spray a very fine mist of black paint over the fairing and lightly sand, any paint that disappears is a high spot, so I either sand some more or fill the low spots. It will depend weather the high spot is glass, if so I will have no option but to do some more filling.
I weighed the port hull yesterday and it came in at 22.8 kilograms. So with a bit more fairing to go, a little glass around the bow , the deck to be added and then the paint, Iam hopeful it will weigh in at 26 kilograms. This photo shows pallet strapping holding the hull to a saw horse while I work on it.
I'm going to try to fair a slightly different way. Using a long (1-2m) aluminium batten with about 3 ppl along it bending it against the hull. Only do one sweep at a time on a particular area so you don't stuff up the previous sweep. Cover the whole area you want to fair then sand. Repeat until you're happy with the fairness. I've seen this done on larger boats and it works well. I'll let you know how it goes.
From talking with professional fairers, (expensive) spray bog is used after using (cheap) microballons and epoxy fairing compounds applied with a batten.
I tried to get some good photos of my sanding effort today. But the light doesn’t do it justice.
If you look close enough at the transom you can see the fairing has hardly been touched. It will need refilling. (the lowest spot on the boat) But 40cm further up glass is already showing ( a high spot) Then another low spot just before the centre board case. And then another high spot on the centre board.
It was a lot more sanding than I thought, but I got that much done in 1 ½ hours.
TJ
Re: Blade 002
[Re: TonyJ]
#104905 04/30/0704:21 AM04/30/0704:21 AM
I know that alot of forum readers (alot of them lurkers) just love to look at building pictures and also this way you experiences will find a large audience. You can place comments with each picture. The thumbnailing and such is all done automatically. It is actually a very easy task to create and maintain such a picture page.
Wouter
Wouter Hijink Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild) The Netherlands
It would be good if Tony does start posting pics on the F16 site. He is now working for a large global resin and laminate distributor and has picked up some interesting ideas. His upcoming experiments may be worth watching.
Regards, Phill
I know that the voices in my head aint real, but they have some pretty good ideas. There is no such thing as a quick fix and I've never had free lunch!
Re: Blade 002
[Re: phill]
#104907 05/11/0701:54 AM05/11/0701:54 AM
Up to 3rd layer now and looking forward to sanding it down again. Should be very close to finished, although I suspect I amy have to add a little more in two places.
Interesting to note that less than 1kg has been added to eaither hull, and that is with 3rd layer still on.
This photo is after layer 2.
TJ
Re: Blade 002
[Re: TonyJ]
#104908 05/11/0701:55 AM05/11/0701:55 AM
Re: Batten and torture board length...The longer the better from what I've heard and seen.
But you obviously have to use what is practical. If you're applying and sanding yourself, then I suspect 1m is the maximum you'd be able to use effectively. I've found that with my hull shape and applying with only one person, about 60cm is the max I can use of my 1m batten.
We can and do supply most composite materials the marine industry needs. We supply full engineering specs, infusion materials, honeycomb products, Core-Cell foam, epoxy resins & hardeners, fibreglass, aramids, carbon fibre, pre pregs and much much more.
We can supply by the container or the meter, and ship it any where in Australia or around the world.
We have lots of boat builders come through and they all think it's a laugh Iam building a timber boat surrounded by high tech heaven.
I apply the flat coats with the litte bit of red plastic. The stripes are applied with a home made piece of angle with notches cut out of it.
TJ
TJ
Teach them how to think.
Not what to think.
Aus
Blade 002
Re: Blade 002
[Re: TonyJ]
#104913 05/13/0705:12 AM05/13/0705:12 AM