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Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited #1098
07/25/01 10:50 AM
07/25/01 10:50 AM
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I just inherited a Hobie 16 and I'm a pretty green sailor. I've sailed H14's solo before so I know I'll grow into the craft. My question is: Before I sail the boat what should I check out? I gave it a once over before I accepted it and it looked like it was in good shape. The mast looked good, the shrouds were taught, the hulls were firm, the tramp was old. I'm assuming that I'll need to replace the tramp and sails. Being an inexperienced sailor, and Cat owner, I need to know what specifically to look for as far as wear and tear. I want to make sure the boat is safe. Any guidence would be appreciated.
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<br>Regards...
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<br><br><br>

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Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited [Re: sail-s] #1099
07/25/01 10:55 AM
07/25/01 10:55 AM
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In response to Inherited I would like to make a comment and maybe other H16 sailors on this forum have tricks for checking an older H16.
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<br>As for checking the H16 I always push on the hulls in front of the front pilings. There should be very little give here other wise you will need to go through the process of reinforcing this area. I also look for cracks around where the shrouds and bridle wires meet the hulls, and of course look for cracks around the pilings supporting the tramp frame. I look at all the rigging to make sure they are in perfect condition. Check rudders to make sure they lock down and tiller bars are not bent. Check the bottom of the hulls for excessive wear. Make sure mast and boom are straight. After this just check it all out and if it has a trailer there is a whole other list to go through.
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<br>As you stated if the hulls are firm, etc. sounds like you have a good deal, depending on price.
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<br>Cheers!<br><br>

Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited [Re: sail-s] #1100
07/25/01 11:16 AM
07/25/01 11:16 AM

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Actually this reminds me of some questions I have ... I'm new to owning a Hobie too.
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<br>When we're talking about rudders "locked down" how tight should this be? And how easy/hard should it be to to get the stay in the "up" position? On my H16 (not sure of the year, but suspect around '78-'82) I often have a problem getting both rudders to stay up (when I'm trying to pull the boat of the water, for example), I'll get one up, but when I get the other up, the first falls back down. Does this mean my tiller connections are maybe too loose?
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<br>And as far taughtness of the shrouds ... I've got my sidestays at the second hole from the bottom and the front stay second from the top (in an effort to get mast rake) but this means my front stay is a little loose (at least without the sails). I figured this was normal, is it? Or should I get some of those teflon mast bearings in the step (currently I don't have any)?<br><br>

Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited #1101
07/25/01 01:24 PM
07/25/01 01:24 PM
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Your rudders should stay up when you put them up so you may need some new Rudder Cam parts or need adjust your rudder system. Also the older H16's tend to have some play in the rudder system and when parts get worn they tend to have even more play and may need some new parts for stiffening purposes. Putting on new one piece gudgeons and getting a rudder stiffening kit helps a lot. Also putting on new H20 style tiller connectors and adjuster kit would also be nice to stiffen the system up. Put all this can be costly so adjusting the rudder system and maybe replacing a few worn parts should be all that is necessary.
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<br>Yes you need the Teflon mast bearing as it helps the mast to rotate more easily and with the bearings in you are not wearing the aluminum out in your step area. Just good maintenance practices.
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<br>tightness of the shrouds is based on how much you rake the mast and sail performance issues. I just make sure that my rigging is tight (not overly tight) and that I am getting proper sail shape. Also you will need to add another shroud adjuster (the long piece of metal with many wholes in it - "front stay second from the top" as you stated) on the forestay connection point so you can rake your mast back all the way for heavy heavy air sailing.
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<br>Hope this helps. Also buy the book the Hobie 16 performance manual for $19.00 at http://www.sail-s.com/main/cart-s/h16TRAPSEAT/trapse.htm which will give you all the tips on how to adjust rudders, rake, etc. The book is not mentioned on the site but is available there or you can check else where.<br><br>

Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited [Re: sail-s] #1102
07/25/01 04:33 PM
07/25/01 04:33 PM

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This new chain plate at the forestay ... Is this a single, longer chain plate that replaces the original, or do you have to have 2 "daisy-chained" together to get the longer chain plate effect?
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<br>Thanks for the info!<br><br>

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Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited #1103
07/25/01 05:47 PM
07/25/01 05:47 PM
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You must have 2 chain plates, this is how all the top H16 sailors have it set up. Right now I am in contact with a company that will be producing a new one piece extra long H16 chain plate so the 2 chain plates hassle will be eliminated.<br><br>

Re: Question from H16 owner on main forum: Inherited [Re: sail-s] #1104
07/25/01 10:57 PM
07/25/01 10:57 PM

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you will need two chain plates not one. using two will allow the top one to rotate forward out of the way when you tighten the jib halyard. the aussie rig seems to work best for this purpose. mast rake is subject to a lot of variables such as wind conditions and crew weight. but a rule of thumb is a little less than that which will allow you to go block to block with your main blocks. hope this helps also find some A fleeter in your local hobie fleet, for the most part they are extremely helpful and willing to assist you.<br><br>

Re: More answers for Inherited from Open Forum #1105
07/26/01 12:07 PM
07/26/01 12:07 PM
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So glad to hear you have a H16. I loved my 14 for many years and then got a 16 after longingly looking at the sterns of those that passed me on the lakes. It sounds like you checked out the most important ingredients. If the tramp holds you and the sails go up, sail it. But, check your hulls frequently (at first) for leakage. I've been told the mast needs to be sealed to avoid turtling. Make sure you have righting lines on your boat. Someone will recommend some books for you. I remember the first lesson I read. It said in essence, "An accidental jibe is the most frequent cause of capsizing." I said, "I won't do that!" Naturally, I did that on the lake and learned what an accidental jibe really was. Lessons would be nice. Or you could do it the hard way like I did.
<br>Keep posting.
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<br>I am sure there are extremely experienced sailors who can give you a lot more information than a self taught old sailor like me.
<br>Greg H14,H16
<br>___________________________________________________
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<br>Congrats on your new cat. I'm sure your going to love sailing it and enjoy making a lot of great new friends.
<br>First of all check out the archives of the On The Wire Ezine - http://www.catsail.com - a lot of great info on maintenance, repairs, and equipment.
<br>Check:
<br>Hulls - any soft spots in hulls will need to be repaired to insure the boats stability - very important!
<br>Shrouds - should be replaced every 5 yrs whether used or not - check for broken strands where the shrouds are looped at the ends.
<br>I'd replace the righting lines just for safety's sake - Do not sail without one!
<br>I'd probably replace the drain plugs and check the rudder pins and transoms.
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<br>Good Luck and happy sailing
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<br>Okay, here's an odd one, happened to me with my first H16.
<br>You probably won't encounter this problem, but it's so annoying and cleverly hidden, it's worth mentioning.
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<br>It seems for a year or two, Hobie shipped the jib battens with little hinges in them, about 6 inches from the leach (traling edge) The hinges are supposed to allow the jib to cross the boat during a tack easier, then 'lock up' on the new tack.
<br>Problem is, when they get old, they stop locking, so your jib gets a hook in it.
<br>Don't Worry, these little devils are rare, I'm told, and most people I spoke to said just take 'em out. I re-used all my old battens, but cutting them down for the next higher slot, and so only had to lay out a couple o' bux for one lower jib batten.
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<br>Sail fast, and watch that leeward bow on a downwind reach!
<br>(Counterintuitively, when you're pointing really deep, like 45 degrees off of true downwind, you need to point DEEPER if your overpowered!!! )
<br><br><br>


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