I'm sure the Landenberger is the one on my boat. The sock slips on and off quite easily and when I replace the pole (bent) it is just a matter of replacing some pop rivets.

That is what I wanted to hear. I like my AHPC alu snuffer ring very much, but the way the bag is made and attached can be improved upon. It looks like Landy has made these improvements. I'm replacing my snufffer bag, but if it doesn't fit again then I may consider switching over to the Landenberger setup. I hear it is actually the snuffer system for the Topcat line of boats.

Also the bag looks like I will be able to make it myself at home when I need a replacement in time. All advantages in my opinion.

Wouter

That is a clear benefit of the alum hoop- the abrasion resistance is outstanding.

You won't have to convince me of the advantage of an ALUMINIUM ring, Rolf. (or aluminium in general !) <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I always thought the glass and carbon ringed snuffer were not attractive. I also feel the alu rings provides less friction. I never used any lubricant and my spi cloth is uncoated.

I think the AHPC snuffer ring is good, but it would be better with the ring angled more to the vertical and the slot cut on the bottom of the ring instead of on the side.

Personally I have no troubles doucing my spi from either side.

Anybody else with this Landenberger ring an bag setup that agrees or disagrees what the evaluation so far ?

Wouter

I am interested in how that works. I think I can picture it in my head but pics owuld be good.

I haven't had any problems with the aluminum ring set up. Better than my homemade set up by far for my 6.0 and better than the nacra glass hoop (except you could argue that the Nacra one had an advantage in that it didn't need preventer lines because the front was square).

I will not have time to make pics in the coming week. But at the Zandvoort I'll ask our resident photographer to make a series of shots.

With respect to the spi tack halyard line. Picture it like this. It is exactly the same as your have now, but instead of running the light green line through the floating block you tie it off to this floating block. That is all.

You may have to tweak the line lengths a little bit to get everything to sit right after hoisting but basically this is the modification. As such it is very easy to try it out. I haven't done it yet because it is at the bottom of my listing of things I still need to do to my boat before the World Cup.

But it is an easy enough mod for you guys to try over the weekend.

Wouter

I would love to!! Unfortunately I am very far from my boat for the next couple months.

Well, except you can do it yourself <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. I did mine from extra airex, one layer carbon and one layer of glass. Really cheap when everything was left overs <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

I'll try to post some pictures about it later today when I get to home.

--
Valtteri

how does it hold up to the abrasion of the snuffer line?

Bending an alu hoop is no problem either, then gluing and glassing the ends together. Make a small section to fit to the spi-pole and it's ready. If you really want to make it well, route a groove for the snuffer bag, or blind-rivet it to the hoop. I did it in my basement in an evening after an idea Phill expressed. I was concerned about the glueing and glass for the pole mount, but it have held up well for several years now. Outperforms most of the commercial carbon snuffers..

The plan was to make the snuffer bag go over the ring, so it should take all wear and not the ring. Also the attachement is lot easier, there is only need to have a rope that is tightened after the bag mouth goes over the ring which is lot easier to make than bolt rope + attachement in the ring. I just needed to buy fabric for bag around 6 euros.

If that implementation is censored I'll buy new one from Landenberger or something.

--
Valtteri

That sounds like my Mk-3 snuffer. We secured the bag by tightening the bag around a moulded flange. No problems with the bag..
I think you might get more friction by running the bag over the snuffers mouth. Friction is bad, something to consider.

We have done all kinds of little things to our boat to make things easier. (Now I am not sure of all the proper names of things yet but here goes a try)
----First who hates fishing that small line through the beam for the rudders? We tied a S hook on the line attached to the rubber and closed that end of the S--then hook the other end to the block on the line through the beam that drops the rudder. And then we leave the line rigged through the beam!
----The down haul--we put a hook on it to go through the eye on the sail for quick release.
----Our main sheet blocks now have quick release shackles--easy setup and quick release in an emergency.
----We moved the tack release to the front grommet for easier access. It got lost under all the lines and I had to reach behind me to find it.
----We took off the beam end plates and put a rope through the hole knotted on the back side and made a loop. Instant handle for pulling the boat around on the tracks.
----We use plastic hooks wherever possible. Ie where the trap lines hook to the bungees and the line that holds the spin bag tight under the tramp.
----Used Wouter's knots on the bows for easy release of the spin pole.
----I always tie the jib line and down haul to my trap (crew) for easy access while out on the wire.
----We also leave the spin in the bag with sheets, tack and halyard attached and carry the whole pole in the box.
----Put a chain plate on the fore stay.
----Replaced two of the spin blocks with larger self ratcheting blocks.
----Replaced the spin halyard block at the top of mast with larger block.
Our goal is to make set up and tear down as fast as possible and to make time on the boat as pleasurable and safe as possible.

Yes, and I've replaced with a swivel block (helps minimize twisting of spi when hoisting).

Additionally, I recommend replacing the block on the spi tack line at the end of the pole with a swivelling block ... standard blocks get "pulled" to the side, eventually causing the line to not run freely thru the block.

Joanna,
I like your idea of the rudder pull down quick mechanism. I was lucky enough to not have to dissasemble my boat for the 3 months that I had it (except when I put it away for a few months now). When I did take it apart I did think of how painful it would be to always thread those lines.
As for your downhaul- when you mean hook to the mainsail- do you take the line that is coming out of the mast and hook it straight to the main or do you have the hook on the block then attach it to the main? When I got my boat it had one of those hooks but it didn't make sense to me. I use a piece of spectra that has a bowline tied in it that will fit through a standard bullet block then goes to a "quick" release D shackle on the side of the mast. Here is a pic.
BTW the line that is wrapped around the mast attached to the main is a little loop that helps me get the bottom of the luff rope into the luff groove on the mast. This is a minor problem with my ullman but not with the glaser.
You can also see the clip to the rotator.

Yes, I saw that in your pictures and it is the fastest quick release setup so far.


By the way. Wouldn't it be smart for all of us to get a "user gallery" on the www.formula16.org website and show our tweaks and modifications there; as some others have already done.

That case we don't have to rehash these things in 6 months time and then again in 12, 18, ...

Example :

Link to user specific galleries on formula16.org


Wouter

Good point W

Also, I guess an even faster way would be to have the hook on that block and just hook it to the main. But I don't trust those hooks and it adds weight ( <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> ) (but i guess it becomes equivalent once you get rid of the d shackle. It is also yet another thing to snag something when the s hits the fan.

I uploaded a bunch of the pics to the F16 user gallery site.

Hooks are good, it makes launching and landing faster and safer.

Oh, another thing.
I put plastic covering on the forestay bridles and the bottom of the forestay (simple lifeline covering) to help the sheets come accross with less friction. Downside is traps water and you have to be careful about inspecting the wires for wear/rust.
Over thinking? Probably <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Got the idea from an HT i used to own with split forestays.
You can see the pic in my boredom inspired thread entitled "Nice colors" which show my new main and spin.