Does anyone have experience converting a 4 way jib system to loops. I would like to pull it off my tornado and replace with some nice clean loops. The current system can move about 16 inches for/aft and about 10 inches in/out.



I have seen some pics of the loops placed diagnally, and some pics of them at an angle. What works best?

Poeple have done various things in terms of the angle but if you look at the guys who pioneered this approach, Booth, Bundock etc, they run across a 90% angle. We went this way too at the same time and it worked fine - to be honest we hardly ever adjusted which loop we were using. You can argue about what is theoretically better but the Aussie idea was to make things as simple as poss - they used the sheet tension to achieve any twist required.

sm

Wow, post a question and an answer within minutes.



Seems like you don't have much of a use for 4way jib system either. Most people that have a 4 way system seem to say the same thing, "works great, but I can't find that much difference btwn the settings". And, most of them can't adjust settings under load anyway.





Ok, How far fore/aft do you put the loops? Do you just put them right smack in the middle of the the allowable travel (the middle of the mesh cover)?



And, do you run a specta line under the tramp between the jib tracks on the hulls, that attatches to the loops from below? I can do this pretty easily on my Reg White by inserting extra slides in the track.

I will scratch out our old measurements (there was a thread on this a month or so ago too). But we went to the aft raked rig at the same time. Plus because the tramp lifts up under the load, you need to mount the loops well forward of where you would normally have the slides.



We put a lot of reinforcing underneath the tramp (some dacron and tramp mesh layers) too - I would not recommend going to eyelets without adding some serious reinforcing, even if you are going to tie back to the sliders.



On our Marstrom, we used one piece of 6mm spectra for each side, threaded through all 6 eyelets with big knots at the ends. Worked fine. If the sliders can run far enough forward, that would be a good option.

Okay, found my notes:



Measurements (taken from Bundock/Forbes boat in Sydney prior to Sydney 2000 Worlds). Remember these are for the recent aft-raked rig setting.



- Eyelets are 38" from aft edge of mainbeam

- Three pairs of eyelets, outer ones are 23" from hull inwale, then 34", then 42". Measurements are to centre of each pair, which are spaced between 1.5" and 2" apart.



Hope this helps



sm

Thanks for very comprehensive answers.

Simon,

I don't have my boat in front of me, but ....



You say that the measurement from the inwale (which I guess means approx the original for/aft jib track) is up to 42 inches. Wouldn't this put one set of eylets right about midship? Could these measurements by chance be in cm rather than inches.



Last I remember, the jib can only be move inboard approx 12 inches from the tracks.

Yeah, I think you might be right - my handwriting was a bit hard to read. Guess I'd better check my measurements. If you can wait a few hours, I'll drop past the boat club and check.



sm

Okay, you were right - I mixed my measurement units!



I measure 23cm, 33cm and 42cm from inwale. And 38inches (approx 96cm) from aft edge of main beam. The eyelets are 40mm apart.



The inwale is the inner gunwale, ie the corner of the hull.



cheers



sm

OK Simon, that sounds better.



I will see if it lines up with the existing 4way on my boat, and mark the locations for modification.



Since you have good access to Tornado info, one more question...

What is the simplest way of attaching the new style self tacking jib to the main beam? I've seen curved tracks, eylets (don't know how that would work), and flat tracks. What is the simplest thing that works best?

thanks

Again there was an earlier thread on this. Our curved track aint the simplest but it works brilliantly..



Check out

http://www.catsailor.com/forums/sho...iew=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=



and



http://www.catsailor.com/forums/sho...iew=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=



and the Tornado website photo page on



http://www.tornado.tc/nrp.htm

Not comparable but....I just did the same with my H-20. I replaced the wire with spectra and Knotted stainless rings @ 4" apart. If anyone wants a photo, give me yer e-mail and I'll get you one ASAIC (as soon as I can)



Eric

Simon,

That last thread on self tacking tnado jibs left off with a question asking where do you get the curved track. Any ideas who makes it.

thanks

Guck Inc. in Rhode Island offers a complete conversion kit-



Kirt

Our was a DIY effort. Refer the photos on the earlier thread - link above.



We ordered a harken track curved 'ends up' @ 1.75m radius and 1m or 1.2m long (ours is 1m). We are using the smallest Harken track which was a big call at the time but it works fine. I suspect most people will use a bigger track.



We have anchored it with small spacers of 3/4" plastic rod and long model c'sunk pop rivets.



I made a mock-up of the SS ends and gave it to a clever engineer. Next time I would do carbon.



There are various methods of doing these things - some pivot (refer the Tornado website). I prefer to have it fixed so you don't lose any energy with movement when easing or tightening the jibsheet.



I don't know anything about Lars Guck's system but you should check that out to as it will no doubt have a lot of thought in it.



regards



sm