When I approached AHPC about repainting my Taipan they said cut the gel coat. I explained this would not do the job they specified not to go for car paint and to make sure it was marine two pot. I have heard several people state here that two pot car paint had done them well.
Re: Painting the Hulls - Proper paint?
[Re: warbird]
#115086 08/20/0701:28 AM08/20/0701:28 AM
I just painted my taipan with 2 pack car paint it will be just the same as using marine paint but at half the cost. the paint rep told me that it's basically the same paint just in a different tin with different label.I got my paint for $140.00 aus dollars for 4lt tin in red. $85.00 for primer.if you get a colour that is already mixed you save big $$$$$. my friend had a taipan in car paint and he only repainted it after 8 years of full sailing.
Re: Painting the Hulls - Proper paint?
[Re: Soaf]
#115087 08/20/0709:07 AM08/20/0709:07 AM
If the story I heard is correct, we are all using train paint.
The 2 part polyurethanes(IMRON) were developed for to paint railroad cars because the harsh environment. Race cars picked it up because it could stand up to the sand blasting so you did not have to repaint as often. DuPont made some changes so it looked better (less like railroad paint) and a race car painter figured out how to give it that wet look. Custom car painters picked it up and it skyrocketed.
As far as I know there is no significant difference between marine, auto, and aircraft single color 2 part polyurethanes. The online help for DuPont Spies Hecker, or PPG is usually happy to tell you which version is suitable for boats and what primer to use for maximum durability.
I added the single color because I just discovered there is a 2 color 2 part polyurethane auto paint. From what I am told most factory cars use this system. It requires a clear top coat or a transluscent colored top coat. Since it rained the entire week of July 4th here, I refinished a bicycle using a sample kit I was given. It does not seem to be as durable as IMRON.
NOTE: When I finished this I started thinking, I bet the reason we hear about problems with the water based 2 part paints like System 3, is they do not have anywhere near the tech support that DuPont, Spies Heacker or PPG provides. When I called the tech support for DuPont they were able to tell me the best way to apply their paint over epoxy composites and they asked "is this hand layup or prepreg?"
The ARC and RC products use Sherwin Williams auto paint. It is excellent paint. my paint job is over six years old and looks great, no UV degradation at all. I am prepping to squirt it again with the same thing......
Yeah, my paint was the the 2 part (base paint with a catalyst), 2 color stuff that Carl mentioned, that was designed to be used with a clear coat. I believe it was PPG stuff, it was definitely car paint, it was Viper red and Corvette yellow. It's received no care, washing or waxing , in two years, and it look great everywhere I haven't scraped it off.
dave
Re: Painting the Hulls - Proper paint?
[Re: davefarmer]
#115090 08/21/0712:46 AM08/21/0712:46 AM
Has anyone tried using a vinyl sticker on the bottoms of their boats for a "wear" patch? You can get the stuff in big sheets at any graphics shop, and you can get it in some really thick sizes. I suppose the edges would create a bit of drag. Just a thought I had the other day.
Re: Painting the Hulls - Proper paint?
[Re: Karl_Brogger]
#115092 08/21/0708:13 AM08/21/0708:13 AM
Has anyone tried using a vinyl sticker on the bottoms of their boats for a "wear" patch? You can get the stuff in big sheets at any graphics shop, and you can get it in some really thick sizes. I suppose the edges would create a bit of drag. Just a thought I had the other day.
There is a "keel protector" product sold for jetskis that is essentially this, except it is a little thicker and much tougher.
Have you any idea why DuPont asked whether it was a layup or prepreg?
and what difference did your ansewer make to them?
Will
I asked that question
A hand layup with West Type epoxy will develop a coating (an oily feeling film) that has to be cleaned off prior to painting. Sometimes you have to use a specific primer because the paint is sensitive to curing by-products from some epoxies. West and System 3 have instructions on how to prep the surface for painting.
Most prepregs require only minimal surface prep. There are exceptions. I picked up some prepreg real cheap once because it requires an elaborate surface prep. The supplier was dumping it because the users figured out it was cheaper to pay a little more and buy a prepreg that didn't cost as much to paint.