source:
http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspxA NACRA 5.2 is a good choice if you want a light weight boat that can also be single handed quite easily. The 5.2 is the most fun when sailed between 220-300 lbs.
NACRA 5.2- 17 ft
The NACRA 5.2 was the boat that started the NACRA line. The boat is an extremely good bargain in the Southern California market where boats can be bought under $1500 complet with trailer. This well performing catamaran compares in speed to the Hobie and Prindle 18s. The 5.2 is quite a good single handed boat as well. With a roller furling jib almost anyone can handle this little "sports car".
Prior to 1985, the NACRA 5.2s were made of almost exclusively firberglass with no foam core.
If you are lucky enough to find a post '85 5.2 you will have a more durable boat. If you can only find earlier models, that is okay too, the earlier boats were generally lighter than the newer models.
Press on the deck of both hulls just in front of the crossbar. If there is a lot of flex in the deck then this boat may be "soft".
The hulls will feel soft if you press on the side of the hull with your hand firmly. This is normal for an all glass boat. It does not indicate weakness.
In 1982 the ceneterbar that connects the rear beam to the main beam was removed. This is better because the bar no longer represents a spot to hit your shins. Some sailors liked the bar because it gave the skipper and crew a nice place to put the feet when the boat began to fly a hull.
In the early 1980's the main traveller changed from being a Schaefer traveller track and car to being a Harken (superior) traveller system.
Look at the daggerboards carefully. The leading and trailing edges should be free from dings and chips. The daggerboard bungi cords hold the boards in place when they are in the up position. Make sure that the bungi cords have adequate flex life remaining.
Check the bottom of the mast. The very bottom section is called the foot. There have been two mast step systems used on this portion of the mast. The captive mast step system is vastly safer and superior to the non-captive system. If you find a boat without a captive system one can be retrofitted to the boat. How you can tell which is which... Look at the mast foot casting. (black aluminum) It is the female portion of the mast step link. If it has a hole drilled through it, and a 1/4" clevis pin that measures approximately 2 5/8" long sticking through it, you have a captive system. If the mast ball on the main beam simply fits unsecured in to the "cup" at the base of the mast then you do not have a captive system.
The rudders should be in good shape with no dings or chips. The rudder casting that holds the rudder and is part of the steering system should be in good shape with no signs of repairs such as welds. Look to see that the tiller arm that sticks up from the casting and attaches to the tiller crossbar is securely fastened together with rivets.
Newer boats or boats that have been retrofitted to a "beaching rudder" system will have a "Pivmatic" rudder kick-up fitting about 2/3 the way up the tiller arm. This black fiberglass compression sleeve serves to release the rudder in the event you hit a submerged object or beach the boat. If the boat does not have this type of rudder cleating system, one can be easily retrofitted and it is highly recommended. The alternative rudder lock down cleat would be a silver or black aluminum jam cleat that is either riveted or screwed in to the tiller arm. This system does not automatically kick up.
Always check to see that the trampoline track is securely fastened to the hull. A boat that has been raced hard or abused, will in time, become weak in this area. This problem can be solved but may be expensive. To check this, stand on the trampoline directly adjacent to the trampoline track and gently bounce on the tramp. If the track flexes a small amount it is normal, but if the track is moving quite a bit, it could mean an expensive repair.
There are numerous accessories available for the NACRA 5.2 and some of them are very nice to have, others are just dressing. Consult your local dealer to ask what is worth having on board!
Look underneath the hulls to see if there is a lot of beach wear. If you can see the hull beneath the gelcoat paint, that is okay. If you can see fiberglass coming through the brown hull resin, the boat will need a $300 bottom job soon.
Check at the back of the boat where the rudders connect to the hull. The metal fastener housings are called gudgeons. If there is cracking around the gudgeons, the boat has probably had some problems when beaching. This can be a severe problem so look carefully at the back of the boat.
Look for worn wires on the mast. Look at the shrouds (side wires) forestay (front wire) and the trapeze wires for broken strands. Also check the bridle wires (very front, attach to bow) for broken strands. Ask the owner when he replaced the wires last. Most manuals suggest a five year maximum life for wires even if they have not been used.
Look for broken strands in the halyards (lines that pull up the sails).
Look at the sails for broken battens (solid pieces of fiberglass) in sail.
Look for tears in the sails.
Check the stiffness of the sail material. The newer the material, the stiffer the sail.
Trampoline condition. Tramp should have no tears or holes.
Take a very hard look at the gooseneck assembly. (boom to mast connection) Look for signs of breakage or wear.
Look for areas of discoloration in the hulls. This may indicate a repair of some type.
Ask if the boat leaks. If so, how much in two hours. A few cups of water are okay, but half a gallon or more is unacceptable.
Look all around the hulls for gelcoat (paint) cracks. Sometimes this is okay, but if the area around the cracks is soft, walk away and look for another boat! Press on the decks with the palm of your hand and all of your weight.
Ask the owner of the boat to rig the boat with you the first time to make sure that all of the parts are there. Make sure that you look overhead before you stand the mast to make sure that there are no electrical or telephone wires you may hit. Actually get on the boat and pretend that you are tacking. Move the sails, the rudders, and anything else you would normally operate when sailing the boat.
Ask the owner why he is selling the boat. How long has it been on the market? Are you the original owner? When was the last time you were sailing on this boat.
Ask the owner what model year the boat is. Then go to the back of the boat on the right hull and look on the back of the boat. There will be a hull number that will end something like "M79L". This would indicate that the boat is a 1979 model. Make sure that the title that the owner gives to you has a VIN # (hull #) that matches the number on the boat. Make sure that the person you are speaking to owns the boat.
They must own it outright with no "legal owner" listed. If there is a legal owner listed, you must make sure that the lien on the boat has been satisfied. Simply call the lienholder. Make sure that the person selling the boat is the singular owner and that there are not two names listed on the title. If there are two names, then the other person must also sign off and date their interest in the item. To be really sure that this boat is as it appears, contact you local DMV and County Accessors office. Have the Hull numbers for the boat and the VIN # for the trailer ready along with the owners full name and address.
Taxes and registration. Ask the owner if he has paid his county tax on the boat for the current year. Call DMV and make sure there are no outstanding parking tickets or other citations on the trailer. If the boat and trailer are out of date on registration, it could be very expensive to get the boat and trailer back to current. The certificate of non-operation slips are much more limiting than they used to be so call DMV to confirm you will not halve to pay the additional registration fees and back penalties due.
If the owner no longer has or has misplaced the certificate of title(s), make sure you have them provide you with a "duplicate certificate of title" along with $14 per lost title to cover DMV fees and processing fees. Do not give payment in full for the boat until the title has been cleared with DMV!
You must also get from the owner a "BILL OF SALE" which is a standard document available at the DMV. A home made version does not do the trick. When you arrive at the DMV with the bill of sale you will be assessed State of California Sales Tax based upon the amount paid for the boat and trailer. You must get separate bills of sale for the boat and trailer showing correct hull and trailer numbers. It is payable at the time of registration.
What additional accessories come with the boat? Beach roller, lifejackets, harnesses, wetsuits or sailing gear, spare wires, pins, shackles? Extras are nice, but add no real value to what you should pay for a boat except for a cat box and beach roller. Does the trailer have a spare tire?
There are other things to check over and there is no way we can cover them all in this article. If you use this as a fundamental guide and some common sense, you can make a good purchase! Good luck and always wear your lifejacket
source:
http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspx
