After alot of searching I finally found a spin for my 5.2 and have it all rigged up. I had an experienced person help me set it up so it is rigged correctly.

I have read alot of the threads on this site about running a spin, but I would like some more advice on it. If anyone has advice about the sets and douses or just running it please give it to me.

Gree,
You need more details. Is it a mid or endpole snuff system or deck launch? How is it rigged? Be more specific in your questions. Have you had it out yet? How did it run? Any problems?

Sorry, it is an endpole snuffer.

I have not had it out yet, but i plan to this weekend. I am looking for advice on the set and douse more than anything. How deep should i be sailing when I set the spin?

Also how deep should I be sailing when I douse?

When sailing with a spinnaker solo I understand that one hand will be sheeting the spin, but with the other should I just be holding the tiller and have the mainsheet nearby?

I guess when I start off I will be sailing fairly deep and not trying to trap out at all, but I do see some guys sailing pretty hot angles and trapping with the spin up. What goes into making you decide whether to sail deeper and not?

I'm no expert but will share what I can. Set the spin downwind with the main blanketing it. You will need to drop the main sheet, put the tiller under your leg or in your lap and fully hoist the spin. Sheet in the main hard, like going to weather, and center the traveler. Then pull in the spin sheet, all this while going dead downwind. It is imperative the main be set before you fill the spin. Then start to head up until the hull starts to fly. Its completely opposite from going to weather flying a hull. While under spin and the hull flys you will fall off instead of heading up to bring the hull back down. Then its just a matter of scalloping the wind. To douse, stay in the wind and let the chute fly out in front off the boat by releasing tension on the sheet, release the halyard and snuff it. If you don't let the spin fly out your sheets will resist as you snuff. You will have to practice alot before it starts to become natural. Sailing a spin has completely re-invigorated my sailing, I was getting bored with-out it unless the wind was howling. With the spin even light air becomes fun again. Good luck and fair winds to you

With an end-pole snuffer you actually want to have a slightly hotter angle when you set and snuff.

Being a little hot while setting will have the wind help to pull the sail out of the snuffer and will help keep the lines clear. A little initial pull on the sheets can also help pull the wadded sail out of the snuffer. Do a quick pull on the sheets and then let them go while you raise the sail.

Being a little hot while snuffing will help keep the boat from running over the sail and lines once everything is released - if you go too deep you'll find it awful easy to wrap the sheets under the bows or wrap the spin itself around the snuffer head.

I agree with Keith, expecially on the douse. I can't tell you how many times I ran over the chute trying to douse it downwind. Heat it up, it's a lot easier.

Okay, well I will be trying it out this weekend if the wind is light enough.. This should be interesting!

Any other big tips?

If it is windy, pull your boards up, that will help keep the hulls from popping up when the gusts hit. Try to sail looking backwards every few seconds, so you see the puffs coming and can bear off in advance of a big one, try to wait for a lull to snuff it. You may find you have lots of lee helm with the kite up, if so, rake your mast back quite a bit, that will help.

I am getting a little worried because the guy who helped me rig it is talking about wanting to come watch so he can watch me crash....glad I have a wetsuit and can swim!

Thanks for the advice, I am excited about finally getting to run a spin.

Don't worry. on my n20 the spin is sooo smooth. It helps keep the bows up. Trust me you'll love it. I can't imagine sailing without it now.

The reason you center the traveler is because for the most part you do not want to blanket the spinnaker with the main.
If it is gusty however and you find yourself doing a lot of bearing off really fast to depower, it helps to dump the traveler according to how much you need to depower. Once you've depowered by letring the traveler out and bearing off, you re-center the traveler and head up slowly to get more speed again. I play the main a bit in light gusts and the traveler in bigger gusts to blanket the main. Using the rudders too much is slow and if the hull goes up too fast it is possible to stall out your rudders, not allowing you to bear off.
Also, when hoisting it doesn't hurt to have the traveler out some, going downwind with the traveler centered and main tight is really slow and you'll have no apparent wind to help you accelerate.
You'll be fine. Just remember that you want to be sailing in an "S" head up for power, bear away for less, head back up and continue so that ideally the hull is skimming the whole time.

You also need to keep in mind that your sail is acting like a backstay and helping to hold the mast in column. Dont ever dump the main or travelor all the way when its windy or you could break your mast.

Bill

Good times are ahead of you. Note traveler position, and main sheet is on, not upwind on but still it is on.

I'm sure it's different for every boat, but I center my traveler, and sheet semi-hard. Telltales fly straight back, so I think its working correctly.

I find that I end up moving the traveler based on conditions and heading. In lighter conditions where the apparent wind hasn't gone as far forward or if I'm trying to drive a little deep and the traveler goes out to keep the main powered up and not stalled. Watch the telltales. Coming out of a jibe I let the traveler out until the boat acclerates and then I bring it in until everything is flowing the way I want it to.

The traveler track on the TheMightyHobie18 is very sticky and when loaded by the main is worse. I've replaced the bearings and sprayed with sail-kote but still sticky. In light air its impossible to move with out cracking the main. Have considered replacing the unit completely and installing a track across the top off the crossbar. Has anyone ever done this to an 18? Is it worthwhile?

Once again thanks for all the advice. Tomorrow is the day I get to test it out.

On the 18 if you get rid on the slug and put a ball like on the other part it works much smoother.

Yup, know the 18 traveler very well. Try the suggestion of replacing the slug with another ball.

I had considered the idea of putting a traveler track on top of the crossbeam as well, but never got around to it. I think it would work decently, although the curve of the beam may work against the free action as well - as you travel out there will be a sheeting action as the distance between the beam and boom will grow, more so than just the usual straight track versus curved arc the mainsheet would really like to take. What the heck! Give it a try and let us know how it works out!

The original Hobie 18 Traveler was equipped with a Ball and a Slider where it runs in the track of the rear crossbar. Years ago, it was easy to buy just the balls and replace the worn out ball and the darn near useless slider with two balls and make the traveler car actually ..... travel. (what a concept)

Over the years, the balls became harder and harder to find. A few years back the only way to get the ball was to buy two "sets" (ball and slider), use the balls and throw the sliders in the toolbox to rattle around doing what they did on the boat, be useless.

Recently, I noticed in the Hobie catalogue that the only thing you can buy from Hobie is a pair of sliders.... that really don't, not very well anyway.

I had 3 sets left, and rebuilt my traveler for the Nationals using two of the balls. Then, with the very last brand new one I knew to be in existence went in search of a machine shop that could make me an exact copy.
Today I took delivery on the first dozen and I have got to say that I am totally pleased with their efforts. Once I mixed the new original in with the new replacements I cannot pick out the original.

Now, if you are not happy with the way the traveler on your Hobie 18 "travel's" I have a great solution at a very reasonable price. I'm selling these new replacement balls for $11.95 a Pair plus 3.95 shipping and handling.

I'm not going to get rich doing this guys, I'm really just trying to cover the cost of setup and machine work.

I have pictures if you would like to see them, and I am offering a satisfaction guarantee. Please E-Mail me if you have any questions or comments.

Stephen Cooley
Hobie 18