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| Re: working with gelcoat paste
[Re: Bob Klein]
#12352 10/30/02 11:27 PM 10/30/02 11:27 PM |
Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 40 NZ simonm
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 40 NZ | Bob
re: Thinning the gelcoat
I understand (but have not yet tried this) that you can heat both the gel and the surface (25 degrees celsius) and that thins it out. Sounds worth a try (but I suggest you work fast and only test it with a small quantity first!!)
Trailing edge
This is alway tough. I usually open the nick out a bit (particularly if it's small) with a small metal file. Then I use packaging tape and/or some smooth plastic along one side (parallel to the trailing edge) to make a molding surface. Then I place the board so the tape is on the bottom and fill the nick and tape with gelcoat. If you do a reasonable job with the 'mold', you shouldn't need to sand too much. Sorry this is hard to explain in words. Maybe someone else has a better method/description too! cheers
Simon Manning
A Class NZL230.........boats are for life...
| | | Re: working with gelcoat paste
[Re: Bob Klein]
#12353 10/31/02 01:05 AM 10/31/02 01:05 AM |
Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 164 The Netherlands (North West Eu... RobLammerts
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member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 164 The Netherlands (North West Eu... | Using gel coat only is often not enough, when you really want a smooth surface you use: 1. Gel-coat 2. Hardener 3. Parafine (which makes the gel-coat less sticky)
This way the gel-coat can be applied with a small brush and later be sanded with some 400 paper.
I did my Nacra 6.0 last winter and it really looks like new.
Good luck
Rob
Nacra 6.0 European version
Nr 090 + Spi
| | | Re: working with gelcoat paste
[Re: Bob Klein]
#12354 10/31/02 09:40 AM 10/31/02 09:40 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 12,310 South Carolina Jake
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 12,310 South Carolina | Bob,
The Gelcoat can be thinned with acetone - you can even thin it enough to spray it if you wanted. I believe the key to getting a smooth finish on it is to coat it with something after application. This keeps the air from affecting the cure. For small repairs, use a piece of saran wrap stretched tight. If the bite out of the trailing edge of your board is more than .1875" or so, you will probably need to put in some glass. Some Gelcoats require to be coated so they can cure. Some other folks spray a PVA mold release over the gel to facilitate a cure.
For a sizeable 'bite' I would first take a dremel and clean up the edges and then taper them so I have a spot to build up some glass on. I then take a piece of duct tape with wax paper on it (leaving adhesive of the duct tape all the way around the wax paper) and place it over the area on one side. Depending on what the area looks like, I might first lay up some glass and epoxy on a piece of waxed lexan to get a solid sheet that I can cut some pieces from. Then trim and epoxy a few pieces of the glass in the wound. If the wound is thick, I would only use this on the outside edges and would build up the inside with un-epoxied glass and more epoxy. For the final finish, I mix the epoxy with some micro-balloons to achieve an easier sandable finish.
Jake Kohl | | | thanks!!
[Re: Jake]
#12355 10/31/02 03:03 PM 10/31/02 03:03 PM |
Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 107 Texas Bob Klein OP
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Posts: 107 Texas | I want to thank all of you for your responses. I will pull out my board this weekend and see if I can fill that bite. I'll try thinning the gelcoat paste and I will cover the surface as suggested. Warming the paste seems like a reasonible idea except the catalyst will work that much faster so I would have to move faster. I also found this article by Don Casey on the BOATU.S. website. Nice article on fixing scratches including the use of styrene to activiate the gelcoat http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/02.htmCheers and thanks bob klein inter 18 | | |
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