OK, I'm ready to choose the line to use for taperable(by me, hopefully) mainsheet. Polyester covers(Crystalyne, V-100, Warpspeed, Endurabraid) claim longer life at the cost of greater water absorbtion. Will the life of a polypropylene cover(Ultra-Lite, YaleLight Competition,Flightline) be noticibly shorter(particularly where it's cleated repeatedly with the main fully in)?
I'm assuming that all these are strippable, is that correct? Any of them noticably easier to taper for a novice?
Any preferences amongst these brands or others? 5/16" or 3/8" (using 10 to 1 blks on a F18HT main)?
I haven't come across directions on constructing split tails yet, anyone know where to point me?
Thanks again for all the help!

dave

If you go with a Polypro covered line, I would make sure you do not leave it out exposed to the weather much. If you think you will be leaving the main blocks on the boat, then I would get a polyester covered line. I would probably go with Endurabraid, but alot of people have very different tastes and opinions when it comes to this stuff. I like a really tight cover on my lines but these are harder to dig the core out of. If you can go and touch the lines, I would pick whatever feels good to your hands.

Most people just pull the core out for the split tail and whip the line at that point. I'm sure there are other methods, but this is what I have seen most frequently.

The folks over in the F16 list seem to like taking rather small diameter line and inserting a small line in the core to bulk it up for cleating and holding. That sounds lower maintenance then a core-removal taper, and works with popular single-braids like Salsa line and Robline. That's what I plan to do with my next sheet.

You have to take care which line you select for tapering: Normal double braid has a losely braided core that is not suitable for use on its own. Don't try removing the core and using the jacket only for a mainsheet: It will be too stretchy without the core.

Just about any of the high tech core lines should work, but they are pricey. Also, the jackets on them are surprisingly thin, so you don't gain as much by tapering. (To taper them, extract enough core for the tail, cut the jacket leaving a few inches, and bury the jacket in the core. Stitch.)

So, a good taper really needs to be a hybrid: It needs a small diameter high tech tail spliced to a larger diameter line. One way to do this is to splice the small diameter tail to the core of a double braid line with a conventional single-braid splice. Then stitch the cover over this splice and whip the end of the cover (since it's too large to bury in the small tail). Another way is to simply insert the tail a few feet into a single braid sheet like salsa line, stich the splice, and whip the end of the jacket.

However, Lovell & Ogletree don't taper (or cascade) on their Olympic Tornado, preferring simplicity/reliability/low maintenance over the reduced drag.

A note on stitching splices: this is best done on a sailmakers sewing machine, as it presses the line flat while stitching. Hand-sewn results are just not comparable.

--

As for the split tail: one option is to start with a single-braid large diameter. Take 4' of small diameter single braid, fold it in half, and work in 1' of the folded end into the single-braid. Stitch (through both tails) and whip. The same can be done by removing the core of *polyester* double braid. (Polypro jackets are not strong enough.)

--Glenn

Thanks Todd and Glenn, that's just the sort of input I was hoping for.

Dave

I would recommend avoiding the twin jacketed lines that are promoted for this purpose. It is really difficult to get the outer jacket to stay in place. I tried several time with different makes and stitching ideas. I finally gave up and returned to normal setup.

For me, tapered caused higher friction at exactly the wrong moment-- when I was transitioning from in tight to out loose (mark rounding or quick dump of power to avoid capsize). The added friction of the taper point occurs just as the force of the mainsheet becomes weaker.

he benefit of low drag when in tight trimming is nicer, but just not worth the trade offs for me. The trade off was even worse when there was any defect in the transition point. Finally, any defect at this point would cause bunching which would increase the defect until I had to stop the boat, cut the line, re-thread, and continue racing. ... no, definitely did not work for me.... If you try, for sure have a pro make you one. Annapolis Performance Sailing is very good at splices if you are bound and determined.

Matt