So, I got all this stuff to teach myself to splice, and am attempting a tuck bury eyesplice on 1/8"(3mm) vectran 12 strand. I'm trying to insert the fid (1/4", the smallest I have found) into the core of the line, I can get the fid easily slips into the core about an inch and a half, and it then seems to bind up, much like the Chinese finger splint trick. It seems like the fid is just too large in dia, is there a smaller size needed (available?) for this size line? The fid is brand new, Samson. I've even sanded it down w/ 320 grit so it's real smooth. Is there a trick I'm missing here? Thanks for the help!
ya 1/4" sounds to big. I've gotten by using a length of piano wire for this vectran size. Got to tape sparingly with cellophane tape to aid bitter end pass through.
There is a knack to getting the smallest piece of sellotape to a pointy end. No need for a fid once this is mastered. It does pay to over-thread the sellotaped end and poke it out so that the tape can be removed and the end drawn back in.
This hack i know once taught me to use a ball point pen insert as a fid. you have to do the cello tape taper trick but it works. i've considered trying to find tiny knitting needles for a fid but haven't followed through on it.
Capt Cardiac Ocean Springs Yacht Club Sailor Nacra20 - Flight of Ideas #5
I used to work as a rigger splicing rope 40 hrs a week. For the small diameter line what i would do is instead of shoving a fid down into the core i would use a piece of coat hanger bent in half to make an eye. I then go up the core from the bottom of my bury and tape the already tapered tail to the eye and pull it through. On the small stuff it is impossible to get a fid through far enough to do a proper bury.
This hack i know once taught me to use a ball point pen insert as a fid. you have to do the cello tape taper trick but it works. i've considered trying to find tiny knitting needles for a fid but haven't followed through on it.
I just don't want to be the guy... or near the guy that goes up to the woman at walmart and asks "where are your knitting needles?" oops... already been that guy <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
For splicing thin dyneema line I use this custom made tool, supplied by a local hardware store. It is made of thin steel wire and an end terminal to pull the splice. The dyneema end locks tight in the steel eye, no need to use tape. see photo...
------------- Dynautic Blade F16-GER 001
Re: Splicing advice
[Re: Holger]
#130151 02/02/0812:21 AM02/02/0812:21 AM
That looks intriguing Holger, what would I ask for? I can report success with the #2 knitting needle and tape. Have created two nice eyesplices so far, it truly is easy, just takes me about 15 minute, and I expect the time to decrease with practice. Gonna do a bunch more, then eye my new spin hlyd and mainsheet for tapering. Thanks to all for the encouragement and advice!
It's important to note here that lots of bad single-braid splicing advice is floating around. I believe Samson even changed their advice in their single-braid splicing manuals, after folks were seeing the old back-and-forth-then-bury approach fail.
To do it right, you need to pass the lines through each other so that they lock even with the tail not buried. (Sketch attached.) There is an obvious way to do this (passing the entire length of the line through itself to lock, and a topological trick way to do it with just one end of the line, but I can't describe that in writing.
Anyway, if you can't get your splice to lock as in the attached picture before burying the tail, I recommend you not splice single braid at all and use knots instead. If you are going to put a thimble in the eye, then a double overhand loop is incredibly secure. Otherwise, I'd use a bowline. Yes, the strength is reduced, but non-locked 'chinese finger trap' single braid eye splices are not reliable.
2c, --Glenn
Re: Splicing advice
[Re: Holger]
#130153 02/02/0809:17 AM02/02/0809:17 AM
Stop by any bicycle shop and pick up a very skinny spoke, bend it over in two and you now have the "special splicing tool". Also, since you are at WalMart in the knitting dept., go over to the sewing dept. and find the largest needle with an eye large enough for your smallest line.
OK Glenn, I'm following Samson's directions for a 12 strand Class II(dyneema, vectran, etc) eyesplice, and I think this is the method you're questioning, as the tapered end is merely inserted into the core for 3.5 fid lengths. It seems to rely on a lockstitch applied after the splice is completed(would more than one help?). So you're suggesting weaving the tapered end thru the standing part before inserting it into the core? Tami, Brion Toss. Is that a person? Where is the video available? I have Samson's splice kit consisting of an array of fids and a pushing tool, what else do I need? I do have a #2 knitting needle now! Thanks guys!
Toss is a rigger in Pt Townsend WA. His shop markets what they call a "Splicing Wand." It is by far the easiest to use tool I've ever experienced. In fact, anyone wanting a set of Samson fids, send me postage and y'all can have 'em.
I have two wands, I think they're the medium and small ones, which do for most any size of line. Every line on my trimaran is spliced, most all of my line is Amsteel: halyards, lifeline stanchions, turning block attachments, and I even have a Brummel instead of a shackle in my Salsa spinnaker sheet line.
it's just for one - they ain't cheap, that sounds about right. But the first time I used it, it paid for itself. And so I bought the other. But I have a big boat and I use my wands frequently. Maybe I oughta go into the splicing biz.
I can understand messing with the hightech lines for a big boat, for the weight loss will be major. But really, I can't see messing with it for a dinghy.
Wow, cool stuff Tami. So the dvd covers 12 strand eyesplices? Tapering too, or is there another one as well that would cover that? I think I need the micro tool, as the 12 strands and cores are all 1/4" and under.
