I like sailing, and I like building things, and I like being cheap...

I know where I can get some fiberglass windsurfer masts for pretty cheap, and I've heard of them being used as spinnaker poles before. I'm wondering what it takes to use them this way, and how durable they are.

When I get new sails for the G-Cat, I want to go with a roller-furling jib and a roller-furling "Hooter" or "Reacher" to use in the usually light-air conditions around Tampa Bay, FL.

Why go through the trouble of using a windsurfer mast as a pole.

My spi pole is a simple (not anodised) aluminium tube of about USD 15,- and it just has handled its 3rd season just fine even despite the fact that is didn;'t receive a special treatment against corrosion.

Wouter

Where have you found this supply? I'm looking for one to build a righting pole for my cat?

Island Style Watersports in Sarasota, FL.

Ever since the new style of windsurfer came out (relatively short and wide with a deep high-aspect skeg) the older boards and equipment have been nearly impossible to sell.
You should be able to pick up fiberglass masts for a pretty good price.
A righting pole sounds like a good use for these- I never even thought of that.... It would probably get in the way of my hammok, though
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
What diameter aluminum tubing was used for your spinnaker pole?

Getting a free windsurfer mast was the inspiration for me adding a spinnaker to my boat. They work just fine. I'm sure if you are going to pay, the aluminum can probably be done lighter. The one thing I did to avoid problems with eyes/rivets pulling out of the fiberglass was to use Harken tie-light blocks. The whole thing has worked out pretty well. I did break my first one, but that was because the stop knot on a bridle line for the pole pulled out leaving the pole unsupported - an aluminum one would have folded as well, maybe quicker. Another free mast was found, the blocks tied on, and away we went!

From memory; I used a 35 mm outer diameter tube with a wallthickness of 2 mm. But I will check back home; I wrote it down in a document.

Any way 1 inch = 25,2 mm

I can tell you one thing now though, My next pole with have a larger outer diameter and less wallthickness. Will be lighter and stiffer then. I did some calcs and settled for 38 mm or 40 mm by 1.5 mm wallthickness for my next pole.

Having said this that 35 mm pole worked just fine although in the strong winds it needed stabilisation by two lines/wires running from the bridle points on the hull to the pole.

Wouter

Hi Brian,

A few years ago, I put together a "back-yard" spinnaker system for my P19. I thought I'd use it for "playing around", until I decided what "high tech" system to graduate to. Well, I have since moved up to the MX package, and have to re-think the "high tech" system once more.

I used a windsurfing mast for the pole, and it has worked fine. For information purposes, I secured a cable (fore to aft) to induce a bit of pre-bend in the pole using a section of spreader material (as a strut). I am running cables off the end of the pole, and part way back attached to shackles at the (bridle/hull plate). Fabricated a piece of teak as an insert for the aft end of the pole. Drilled the teak to accept fitting that I mounted on the forward beam. Mounted a cam cleat on top of the aft end of the pole for the tack line. Everything is attached with small backing plates and through bolted. Seem to work fine, but I also can't speculate how it would do in a blow of 20+, because I haven't been there.

If you are ever down at Dunedin Causeway, stop on by and take a look.
Dave

On my nacra 6.0, I'm using a carbon fiber Windsurfer mast I got form M.M. -Small Craft Advisories. Now I'm putting the smaller end at the main beam,(aft end), I know, sounds backwards?

That's because I also have a E-O snuffer and bag that slips right down into the larger diameter, now at the fore end.. Works well, but......

I"d really like to mount it at the bridle like the 'guc' style snuffers. With my 6.0 and it's low foil, to get the fore end up some more, I now mount the aft end on a fitting about halfway down the large bolt under the mast (dolphin striker bolt). I got that idea from a write up posted about a spin on a N5.5, largely written I think by Charlie Ogletree. My aft end fitting is compliments of Kevin Wilson at 'Stix-n-Riggin'.

I too go with economical set -ups, especially in the R&D phase when retrofitting rigs like this. Still remember my 'cheap' carbon fiber tennis racket, that never even made a sea trial.

My CF windsurf mast was really inexpensive thru Small Craft Adv., don't know if he stilll has that deal though. $99.oo.

Windsurf masts will work, fiberglass is more brittle than CF, but stayed well, it will work.

Good luck,

Todd Bouton
N6.0na +
#111

My pole on my 6.0 is 13.5' long 2" O.D. aluminum tubing with a 1/8" wall. I don't have any concerns about it's strength as long as the rigging stays in place. It's painted white but it's not a very durable finish. I'm going to see about having it anodized or just painting it again myself.

Todd,

Attached is a pic. of my mid pole snuffer ring that's in progress. The ring started life as a 14" foam ring used to make wreaths from. I put two layers of 2" fiberglass tape around it, epoxy, and vacuum bagged. Then created the mount tube again from glass and wrapped with electrical tape and perferated (since vacuum bagging around the spinnaker pole and ring assembly was impossible). The ring assembly only weighs about .75 lbs and it feels plenty sturdy - time will tell. I now need to make a small stainless tang for the bridle foil to make a second attachment point (see pic). The snuffer bag is the next challenge...any seamstress' out there?

Jake,

Seems like sourcing the aluminum poles has been a perpetual problem for many of us. Did yours come with your 6.0, or do you have a source?

What works fabulously well is to put two carbon fiber windsurfer mast BASES, base to base for a double tapered spar. For a spinnaker the only support that is needed is at the end of the pole and a bit of line at the bridle to hold the pole up wile rigging and to induce prebend. You do need to make or get a base to base ferrule, the ID of standard masts is 1.91". I was using some very expensive carbon fiber ferrules, but after analyzing breaks by others when the tip guys failed, I think the best ferrule is a piece of PVC. That way if you have a failure, the ferrule breaks and not one of your bases. I haven't acutally tried the PVC yet, but properly rigged, almost all the load at the joint should be compression, with very little stress on the ferrule.I have a few mast bases left and a few tips that could be used for righting poles, email me if interested.

Kevin,

Mine came with the boat as did the fittings. I can probably help you out with the fittings if you need (I work at a machine manufacturer with a 4 million dollar fab shop). I think the pole/spin was a dealer option when the guy bought the boat from Key Sailing. For finding the extrusion, try the Thomas Register (via yahoo). I've linked to this search for "Aluminum tubing" and you should be able to find someone near to you. It's not very expensive (about $4.50 per foot seems average) and some of them probably have coating options (anodizing). try here:

Company Listings Provided by Thomas Register

Thanks for the URL. Looks like some real possibilities there.

I found a pole, fittings, and a chute via a friend last summer. My worry now has to do with where I could find a replacement pole if (when ) this one breaks.

I made up a spin. pole from a tapered alum. windsurfer mast that I found used at a local dealer. I was concerned about the tip surviving. So what I did was run the front wires to the tip. I mounted the tack block about 10 inches back from the tip.I then added a second set of wires about half way from the tip to the forestay bridles. Instead of the tack pulling on the tip, It was pulling on a much stronger or better supported part of the pole. It would load the 4 support wires instead of just the front 2. I induced a little prebend at the furler and that was it.

I was running a stock Mystere 6.0 chute on a Hobie 18. I ran this in over 20 Knots of wind and had no problems with the pole.

I paid 70 bucs for the pole and wound up spending a total of 300 for everything but the chute.

Mike

I finally found some time this morning and put up some pictures and descriptions of the vacuum bagging process I used to make that snuffer ring. It's in the Tips and How To's part of my website if anyone's interested.

Jake,

Very nice description on your webpage. Thanks.

I was wondering, since you didn't epoxy the loop straight to your pole, how do you keep the loop from spinning on the pole?

And how did you hook your venturi and compressor together?

Thanks,
Mike Hill
H20 #791

Check out your local rigging or mast company for aluminum spin poles.

My local source is:
http://www.dwyermast.com/tube.htm

I used 2", 11ft long.

Bill

It was easy with the 6.0 because the bridle foil is out there. I simply mounted a small tang on the foil and epoxied an 'ear' to the ring and put a pin through them. The pole mount stays flexible on one axis and the pin on the bridle in another. The whole thing floats really well - the only potential for damage is if the pole decides to move to one side of the boat or the other. You can see the bridle foil and 'ear' in this attachment (although this is before the tang is attached). The idea is that I can store the spinnaker in the sock and by pulling one pin and one (maybe two) bunjis, the sock and ring will slip off the boat and go in the sail box. I haven't gotten this system up and running yet (been dodging ice storms here lately and now my back is out!) but hope to in the next month or so.

The venturi already had threaded fittings on it that would receive a standard quick connect fitting. I just plugged my standard air hose to the fitting. I had a threaded flow valve on a 'T' before the venturi but I got most of this stuff out of a junk pile at work and the valve didn't work. (see attachment)