With out a paint booth, I fight with wind and bugs each time I have repainted one of our small cats. Granted, paint works, but this time I was thinking about Jelcoat.(white) Any ideas, including materials would be greatly appreciated.And while we are at it, spider webbing (small cracks) in old jelcoat..best approch ?

Do you want to paint the complete hull or just a spot? As long as you work on spots and the boat has gel coat and not paint, I would recommend gelcoat. I know only German brands, hence I can't give you gelcoat you can buy in US.
Usual gelcoat need to be covered by a plastic film or you have to mix wax in it. If not, the surface remains sticky. Takes about 24h to cure and surface needs to be sanded. There are two sorts of polyester gelcoat, one is only applicable for non permanent water contact. There is also epoxy gelcoat, which is more resistant but also more expensive.

We have no booth as well, but a small party tent helps on windy days.

Cheer,

Klaus

Me and my crew a few hours ago.

boards

a

I just wonder, can a man have more fun!!??

how is it going to end?

I see you are living in the paradise: palm trees, sun, no bucks (until you send us a close up picture?), nice boat. Well, aparently no wind...

What sort of paint do you use?

Cheers,

Klaus

IMO, paint is a giant pita! Gelcoat is easy to apply, easy to sand and repair. Despite lots of advice to the contrary I use a roller and lots of wet sandpaper, no tools at all. Just do a little experimentation with the hardener so that you get adequate "pot life". Roll on two or three coats in succession, just like spray painting. I use a waxed product and let it stand over night before sanding the next day and have had no problem with amine blush (or what ever that gooey stuff is). If you have heavy orange peel, start sanding with 240, if not you can start with 320, graduate to finer grades as the spirit moves you. I use wet/dry sandpaper, a bucket of water and old towel, to keep the dust down and the work surface clean. You can control orange peel by thinning with a little styrene.

You can certainly use any tool you like, I just find them too noisy and I'm in no big hurry. Changing paper often makes the job much faster than you might think, whether working by hand or with a machine. Sandpaper is not the place to economize.

As for the surface crazing, you're on your on. I'd just sand 'til I got tired and start gelcoating.

If your supplier can't explain the advantages between waxed and unwaxed products, it would be best to find one that can <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

An overwhelming amount of information can be found @ boatdesign.net - look under fiberglass and composite boat building. For painting, They seem to favor Awl-grip, and have numerous threads describing techniques for applying.

I have brushed on some dupont automotive paint that has held up extremely well, and when thinned properly, looked fabulous. It was quick to dry so I didn't have any problems with bugs. I have had mixed results with interlux products- the best results coming from their Brightside product line. I found their Toplac difficult to work with.
Rob

I am applying PPG, top of the line called CONCEPT. DCC or acrylic urethane, single stage 2 componentpaint. Color is 2008 Ford CREME BRULEE.

So far so good although the primer is revealing more blemishes than I was expecting. With Key Largo looming I am under pressure to get the paint on quickly so as to let it cure properly before I reaassemble the boat.

There is a little breeze today but the gun can handle it. HVLP, gravity fed.

And yes, I am having too much fun.

I have used Awlgrip before and found it very unforgiving and even more difficult to repair/blend later on.

Here is a pic of my old (RIP) H20 that i refinshed with Awlgrip.

In white gelcoat, that repair can be done in a couple of hours, not counting curing time, maybe less.

When white is the color, repair and maintenance are much less complicated.

Klaus, thanks for your input. My plan would be to redo the entire boat (hulls) I saw a bit of data from Jake on the material he uses..can't seem to find those comments now..

If you are looking for info from Jake's projects:
teamseacats.com

the guy should charge admission

Well, I won't believe the awlgrip lable if it reads "this paint is so strong, it will keep your hull from getting torn off!"

I've never painted a boat before - but I'm sure there's nothing wrong with it. If painting in a breeze (even a light one), make sure the cars are in the garage and that the neighbors don't know what's happening. It's incredible how far tiny paint particles will travel.

I use gelcoat and have been working to try and find the best way to lay it down smoothly - thin it too much and it won't cure properly. I do not use gelcoat with wax because it just adds another complication (you can also add the wax additive separately - it usually comes suspended in an Styrene solution). I'm experimenting now with Duratec additive which mixes with gelcoat 50/50 and is supposed to A) allow it to air-cure and B) let it lay down more smoothly....my first experiment with it wasn't that good - though it may have been my paint gun causing the problems (it did cure well). The best results I've ever had is using air-inhibited gelcoat and then top it with PVA once it's all laid down. The PVA seals it from the air and simply washes away later.

I purchase most of my chemical supplies from:

US Composites

Fiberglass Supply

jake, do you still use WEST epoxy?

Jake, You're on the right track with the Clear Additive. You will grow to love the stuff. I use it in 40/60 (CA/Gel) ratio for better color saturation. It cures hard, and makes gelcoat repairs accessible to pretty much anyone. The only drawback is that it's pricey. When spraying, there is no need to add styrene, it sprays fine like it is. Just cat and go. Take an extra minute and do a test shot onto a piece of cardboard to get the volume/ air pressure/ fan width issues worked out, as you found out it shoots a little differently than straight gel, it's kind of stringy and very sticky. Try a little more air pressure. I'm telling you, you will love the stuff, it cuts our repair times in half. If you need help with shooting Duratec PM me.

By the way, to anyone doing gel repairs, you don't need an expensive gun to spray the stuff. I go to Kragen auto and buy a handful of the HVLP guns on sale for $13. The oversized, cheap orface is perfect for gel. If you have a pot go off it's no big deal...not like my $300 auto gun.

Gelcoat is your friend.

If I have this all right, it sounds like Dura/Gel could be the ans. no PVA ? and unlike marine paint,drift,plus beach rash, won't be as much of a problem. I have the HVLP guns etc. Many thanks to you all for your responses .. very informitive. (now for some of that Florida / Carolina weather..ice on everything out side and 31F)