I agree with the trial and error plan. I spent probably close to an hour sitting in front of the TV reeving (sp) my 8:1 over and over before I got something that I thought looked correct without the sheet touching itself anywhere.
I agree with the trial and error plan. I spent probably close to an hour sitting in front of the TV reeving (sp) my 8:1 over and over before I got something that I thought looked correct without the sheet touching itself anywhere.
Yea it is a pain, <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> BUT once you get it right. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> OH so SWEET <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
From the Harken site. A little small, but it looks correct. You can see the top block is oriented 90 degrees to the bottom block.
Things to look for when experimenting with roving patterns: Does the top block get pulled over at a funny angle under load (this will cause the line to jump off the blocks and incur a lot of friction)? Do lines touch one another? If lines are close are they moving in the same direction when sheeting in or out?
Is it really just a case of " just try every direction till you get it right" ??? wouldnt there be an "optimal" way where there is the max purchase/strenght?
I have never been able to find good documentation online from Harken how to reeve my line so i called them... attached is what i got sent to me.
Re: main sheet string
[Re: ]
#138338 03/31/0802:38 PM03/31/0802:38 PM
The purchase or mechanical advantage won't be effected by how it is pulled though the blocks. What will effect it is drag from rubbing on itself or from binding. Strength I don't think I could comment on. The working loads of what these systems are capable of are usually far more than the loads that they actually see on the boat.
57mm quad upper and 57mm triple with a becket on the bottom. I think the little block is a 40mm.
Came with the boat, I'm still not totally happy with the way it works, but it's better than it was. The sheet needs to be smaller I think as well, its 7/16 and doesn't run through the blocks very fast. I had 5/16 on my last H16 and if you dropped the sheet it just went ZIIIIIIIING. and you got t-bagged.
57mm quad upper and 57mm triple with a becket on the bottom. I think the little block is a 40mm.
Came with the boat, I'm still not totally happy with the way it works, but it's better than it was. The sheet needs to be smaller I think as well, its 7/16 and doesn't run through the blocks very fast. I had 5/16 on my last H16 and if you dropped the sheet it just went ZIIIIIIIING. and you got t-bagged.
I take it you have a Tiger. On ours we used the stock Kite sheet as a mainsheet and then used swiftcord for the kite sheets.
Re: main sheet string
[Re: ]
#138344 03/31/0806:13 PM03/31/0806:13 PM
Karl's picture is very nice, exactly how I reive mine.
I'd like to add an idea that I use on my mainsheet. Notice that the end of the line dead-ends onto a becket. I added a small caribiner clip to the end of the line so I can quickly change from 8:1 to 7:1. I use 8:1 most of the time, but for light air days, I can quickly switch to 7:1 by detaching caribiner from padeye and attaching it to itself, essentially. Although it would seem to be "unbalanced" laods, since the end that is single instead of double is closer to center, it's not even noticeable. I also have a swivel above the block, this helps blocks not get tangled. I use mafioli swiftcord for my mainsheet line, it's really confortable and light. I think I posted pix at : http://www.catsailor.com/gallery/profile.php?uid=143
Jim Casto NACRA 5.5 & NACRA 5.7 Austin TX Lake Travis