Stealing this from another post to create a unique thread ...
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Gill wrote:
When it blows I haven't started changing diamond tension and spreader rake. At our club the Infusions have a rule according to the wind and crew weight (spreader rake is changed according to crew weight, diamond tension is changed according to the wind force). The put a little measuring machine that says the kg of tension on the diamond). Anyone with a alu wingmast that adjusts the diamond and can share some figures?
Gill
Can anyone share information wrt why/when one would consider adjusting diamond wires or spreader rake?
57mm spreader rake, 810mm spreader width, 39 tension on the diamond wire, measured with "classic" Loose gauge, model A.
This is for an Alter cup blade, so aluminium mast and Glaser sails.
I thought Matt sails with 64mm spreader rake, 840mm width and also 39-40 tension. I wanted a little less prebent, because we're a bit heavier.
To be honest, i hardly ever change my diamond settings. Just by applying enough mainsheet tension the sail becomes pretty flat if needed. Cunningham will also help a bit.
Terry, they do it to induce mast pre-bend (front to rear, not side to side). More pre-bend creates a flatter main sail all the time, ie. you cannot make it as full again unless you un-do what you did. But if you know it's going to be light, or if you know it's will be very windy, you can adjust accordingly, more or less prebend.
From poor memory, diamond tension affects the middle of the sail. (Top & bottom of sail can be adjusted by other means which is another thread) going half up the mast I would want about 15% of draft in marginal trap conditions, down to 8% for double trap conditions. (%Draft = depth of sail / Chord) which has to coordinated with leech tension, and fined tuned with downhaul & mast rotation.
I would start with the fullest sail possible(loose diamonds wires), then flatten it out, more each day, until the fine tune controls give you a workable range (to keep the hull down) Two boat testing helps. (Many sailors start the other way, with a flat sail and make it fuller)
Perhaps, someone has the time to explain the affects of spread rake on dual axis mast bend.
We have been re-adjusting our AC Blade. We are light weight at 265-270 and have the spreaders as wide and as back just about as far as they will go. In light air we run 39 and in heavy 41. This is working great for us. The drive is there but not being over powered. Also allows for the downhaul to be most effective. Any ways hope that helps.
Here are the settings that we are using on a couple of Alter Cup Blades with the Glaser sails.
Ed's Mast Prebend - 1 & 1/8"
John's Mast Prebend - 1.5"
We just started racing so we'll see how it goes. Ed
An extra almost 1/2" is a lot given the shape of this mast. Watch the luff track as you get a lot of prebend as it will get very wavy.
Also you need to match the sail to the prebend. Too much or to little and you get a discontinuity in the shape around the top of the diamonds. Also look at the sail before messing around too much. If you can apply down haul and sheet pressure and get a flat sail, any additional pre-bend is doing nothing for you except either messing up your shape or just lessening the range of conditions it works well in. It is not possible to get flatter than flat.
I am 180 and John is 200lbs ?. We have three AC Blades racing uni here weekly, and one T 4.9 but he doesn't count in this comparison. So far I'm very happy with my rig. I have yet to get out in breeze above 16 with it and if I'm unable to settle the boat down at that point I'll dial in a little more.
We just wrapped up a regatta this weekend where we had John's and my boat on the same course. I was uni and John had Noah the supercrew weighing in at 100lbs. Conditions consisted of some lighter 6 kt stuff with the majority being 8 to 12 with puffs into maybe the 16 kt range. I was able to de-power in all conditions and the boat ran real good. I was also able to power up when it came time to shift gears. John may have been lacking some power in the lighter breeze. Hopefully he'll chime in with his thoughts.
Still hazey after all these beers. F-16 Falcon #212
Just to make sure we're comparing the same things...
How are you measuring prebend? I've done it with a string from the top of the mast to the bottom, held tight, measuring the greatest deviation from the edge of the mast to the string.
Eric Poulsen A-class USA 203 Ultimate 20 Central California
Eric. Yes. Laying the mast on it's side I'm using the halyard pulled nice and tight to the mast track at the very top and very bottom to measure the deepedt point to the mast track, usually found at the spreaders. Ed
Still hazey after all these beers. F-16 Falcon #212
We have been playing with the tension some, will have to get the exact measurments, but know the diamond wire tension around 40-41 has been working best lately. Any one know what prebend the Glazer sails are set for?
Here are the settings that we are using on a couple of Alter Cup Blades with the Glaser sails.
Ed's Mast Spreader Rake - 2 & 5/8" Spreader bar length from bolt nearest the mast to diamond wire - 17" Wire to wire at spreaders - 33.5" Prebend - 1 & 1/8"
John's Mast Spreader Rake - 4.75" Spreader bar length from bolt nearest nast to diamond wire - 17.5" Wire to wire at spreaders - 32" Prebend - 1.5"
We just started racing so we'll see how it goes. Ed
Yep, I'm re-opening the topic...
I have measured a lot of the diamond wires, but I still have difficulties to compare to the measurements above for example.
Question 1: how to measure spreader rake? And doesn't rake change when adjusting the length of the arms? Question 2: what is meant with prebend here? Distance from sailtrack to wire width or distance between sailtrack and chord from tip to foot of the mast?
These are the measurements I did:
- Diamondwire tension: 25 (gage in attachement). - Distance from sailtrack to wire width: 800 mm - Length of spreader from diamond wire to bolt at the mast: 48mm - Spreader width (wire to wire): 945mm - Mast prebend (distance between sailtrack and chord): 12mm
What is useful info, what isn't and what do I still need?
Would be great to finally have a good comparison to start from.
IIRC on the Capricorn (nearly identical mast profile) 25 is the setting used for very light winds, in high winds its somewhere in the 30-35 range.
Spreader rake is usually around 50mm, maybe 60+ for light crew and/or heavy winds, this is measure by laying a batten across the wires at the spreaders and measure the distance to the mast track (i hope you meant 80mm and not 800mm <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ). Rake is indeed adjusted by change the length of the arms (make sure they are at identical lengths).
Thank you for the information. I think still one thing is missing, the spreader arms can still be moved more backwards of forward, and still have the same rake. I guess you also measure the distance between the 2 arms at the wires?
Thank you for the information. I think still one thing is missing, the spreader arms can still be moved more backwards of forward, and still have the same rake. I guess you also measure the distance between the 2 arms at the wires?
Gill
I always found it better to measure it to the mast track. I have come across several masts (production boats) where the spreader fixings were not symmetrical and they needed compensating for in the adjustment. Rake is then measured between a straight edge across the diamond wires and the mast track, with prebend measured as previously stated as the chord depth from a straight line between top and bottom of the mast track and the mast. If you place two or three marks on your mainsail back from the luff at spreader height using 'recommended prebend settings' for different conditions, these can then be 'sightlined' to set the prebend with the mast in-situ.
Gilo, I'm no expert either but AFAIK this is the only way you can measure spreader rake. Place a batten on the wires and measure the distance to the mast. IMHO the spreaders should only be set once according to your combined crew weight, you do not want to adjust it every day basically because its a PITA to adjust. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> You should then adjust diamond-wire tension to suit the conditions (depower), and bring a tool along so you can change it on the water.