I'd like to replace the dnhl line(w/5mmm Exel Racing) on the Javelin. Digging out and reinstalling the blks looks ugly. Can anyone suggest a clean and reliable way of attaching the new line to the old, which would allow me to use the existing line to pull the new thru the assumed tiny blks. Any tricks?

Thanks!

dave

Stitch the new and the old line together. Clean, easy, fast and reliable.

Sew it together to change the actual dowhaul line that you pull on. Changing the line that comes out of the mast and attaches to the clew of the sail is a little more difficult because it is tied to a block in the mast. I had to take the step off to get to that on the HT's mast

Yeah, it's the internal blk and tackle I need to restring. I'll redo the external segment whe I have some other reason to remove the mast step. Thanks guys, sewing it is.

Dave

Duct tape........

Dave
If you are redoing the downhaul, take the mast base off and pull the whole thing down and out of the mast, it makes it much eaier to replace the line, the base is only held on by two screws, it will need a bit of coaxing, a couple of light taps with the hammer works.

Also, replace the exit blocks at the base of the mast with Harken wire exit blocks, the one that came with the boat are not up to the task, the crunching noise you hear when you really pull on the downhaul is the bearings in those exit blocks. The Harken wire exit blocks work great and fit right into those holes in the mast.

And if your downhaul isnt 16 to 1, make it 16 to by adding more blocks either on the inside or outside. You should be able to really depower the main with the downhaul, on the HT the downhaul is almost as good as the main to depower, but to get it to work right the blocks need to be working good, with no twist and no crappy exit blocks.


Bill

Thanks Bill, I was hoping you might chime in. I did get a set of Harken exit blks on your advice, although I haven't installed them yet. Yeah, it looks reasonable to get the mast base off, and I don't have any corrosion. My biggest concern is how to get the upper blk assembly reattached to the thru bolt once I release it. What's the trick? I'm sure this is the stock set up, do you know what puchase it is? The dnhl line exits the mast, then goes to a bullet blk tied to the tack, then ties off near the base, (doubling whatever is internal?). That sound right?
I'm pretty exicted, I've had it out one weekend so far and it's sweet, so easily powered up, so sensitve to drive. I've done your rudder mods(how do you keep the rudders dry, now that they've got a few extra holes in 'em?), replaced all running rigging, 4 carbo ratchamatics, 10 to 1 tapered mainsheet, new SNU snuffer and Glaser spin, longer carbon pole, and raised the spin hlyd. Now I just wanna play with it!
Thanks for all the advice guys!

Dave

Dave

Dave,

I cant remember the exact set up, the upper assemble is tied around the bolt goes through the mast.

Take a flashlight and take a look at what you are dealing with once you get the mast base off. I dont remember it being that hard.

Im pretty sure the bolt goes through an internal collar, but I might be confusing my Acat downhaul with the HT. If there is a collar, make sure you put it back in to spread the load on the bolt. 16 to 1 could bend a bolt and tear it out of the mast if the load isnt spread across the bolt.


Rudders holes, I use colored electrical tape, I filled the ones on the side of the rudder and dagger and put them on the top, so that I can leave the foils upside down to drain any water that gets inside.

Bill

Hi Bill,

Where exactly did you drill the hole on the top of the rudders? Actually I'm asking myself why there should be a hole in the rudders/boards ones all the styrol is gassed out...

Cheers,

Klaus

another way to thread lines is to use a paperclip and some tape. I have used it 3 times on larger lines on monoslugs without fail. Unfold the paperclip into an "S" shape and poke one side thru the old line and the other side thru the new line. Then a little tape around it and it will bend and run cleanly thru and around blocks, sheaves, and exit blocks. Use new paperclips just to be safe.

Dave, I can see that the paperclip would work well on larger line sizes, but this is small stuff going thru tiny blocks(Harken airblocks or micro blks I think). I think the sewing, carefully done, could work fine. But now that Bill has me wondering about the amount of purchase I've got, I'm into digging into the mast. But it's still a bit of a mystery how I get it all back together once I pull that bolt out. Particularly if there's a sleeve as well as a block that needs to be held in position while reinserting the bolt. And the bolt is 4' up from the mast base. Can anyone shed light on this process?
So if the blk at the tack of the main serves to produce a 2 to 1 purchase on the outside of the mast, I then need 8 to 1 inside? Would that consist of a quad in the upper position at the bolt, and a triple below, connected to the line that then exits the mast near the base and becomes the external part of the dnhl. Who might make a quad that small? I don't see one in the Harken catalog in either 16mm or micro. Another arrangement to acheive the 8 to 1? Increase the purchase on the outside of the mast? Bill? Joe? Anyone?

Dave

Windsurfing blocks are tiny.

I have ran a 4:1 internal mast rotator in my rectangular shaped NACRA boom, and the way I did it was...run all the lines thru the blocks first, then tape the block(micro cheek block) to a batten, run the batten into to the boom until it lines up with the predrilled holes. When its in line, push the rivets in andd squeeze them into place. You must have patience and beer(afterwards, believe me, youre gonna need need it to unwind!) Actually its not that hard, just a bit tedious. A mast seems like a pice of cake compared to the small rectangular boom which already had bungee in it to further complicate matters.

Dave,
I don't think it is as hard as you are making it- but then again, I didn't take the bolt out that holds the upper block either (but, to a certain extent, if that ain't specifically broke, then you don't need to fix it). Some people have recommended taping a line to the bolt as you pull it out, therefore giving you the ability to pull the blocks out but still have the line attached so you can thread it again. You can pull out the rest of the innards and look at it being mindful of how it lays when put back in. The blocks themselves are protected from everything- nice a cozy inside the mast- so they have no real reason to have an issue even with the high loads they see. Onviously a good spray up in there every once in a while is good to remove salt, etc though.
once you remove the base you will be able to see how the purchase is set up.

and for the sewing- one pass in each line with whipping twine, square knotted a couple times... taped with electrical tape is all you need. just be gentle and there is no reason why it shouldn't work. I have done this about 5 times in replacing/trying different downhaul line and works fine. just do it man!!! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

You guys are wonderful! That's why I keep coming back with more questions, I know I'll get good information and the needed encouragement to quit whining and do it.

dave