Last weekend, when we took our beloved Ragnarok out, one of the lock down rods (on the starboard rudder)snapped whilst we were out on the bay, and flicked off into the distance (best guess is we hit a jellyfish) does anyone have, by any chance, either a spare few of the fiberglass rods off Goodall rudders, or a spare set of stocks and blades that they're trying to sell? thanks, Alex
ok, here's the best picture i have on me at the moment. i'll take more when i go down to the club either tonight or tomorrow. we have talked about modifying to a line system, but not sure exactly how much work that would entail. if someone could give a detailed run-down of the processes and materials involved, then we would give it a go, but until then, we are more taken with the 2003 AHPC carbon stock setup.
EASY! Need a little closer up to see what your pintles look like to see whether you can run a line through them. Basicly, look at this pic. This has a 2:1 pull down on it too which makes it look a little complicated... but it is nice. This shows the line running through the rudder casting but you can run it through the pintle if it is V-shaped and open like a lot of them are.
For functionality, simplicity, and low-maintenance I prefer the rod-based systems. I had a rod-based system on a Boyer Mk 4 and we now have a rod-based system on our Blade. All those lines, cleats, and blocks look like a lot to take care of relative to a rod.
ahhhh...i see thanks for the help. as my camera's broken, it could be until tomorrow when i get good pictures of those pintles, and i'll put that up then. in the meantime, does anyone know the best place to go to get tramp modifications done? i'm assuming straight to ahpc...?
Greg will be able to supply around $50.00 a pair. contact AHPC
I think changing to the line system would cost more than that, but not much more. Usually you have some line laying around although some spyderline or excel racing would work very well and is about maybe 6$ for enough. a couple small ronstan 666 blocks (7$) and some cleats. The breakaway cleats are a little pricey though- 25$ each. I guess some bungee too to hold the rudders up also. The system is not necessarily maintenance free of course. If the glass rods work well for you then by all means keep them... but having fiberglass fly around if it does break isn't my idea of fun either. What is nice about the system is that you can uncleat the rudder hold down line and then hold it or cleat it with the boards partially up when heading into the beach. At the risk of complicating things further, on the blade, the line comes out of the rudder about the same way, through the rear beam, through exit blocks then to breakaway cleats which are mounted on the front of the rear beam which are easily accesible. I like this system. I think I have some pics I can post. However, I have never used the nacra style rudders but I have used the dotan system which seems to work nice, but I don't like the rudders which come with the system.
BTW... almost any sailmaker will do tramp repairs/adjustments for you.
going off on a wild tangent! Why did you choose "Ragnarok" as your boats name? It is a scandinavian word meaning "chaos/destruction in the last days" in our language. The original meaning "destiny of the gods" isn't much better <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Any symbolism in the choice of name?`<img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
ooohhh... long story that. my younger brother is under the impression that he's part viking, and as such, spends huge amounts of time telling me stories about the norse religions, and recounting, in graphic detail, some of the more gory myths. the inspiration for Ragnarok came from him, and me and other Alex (skipper) agreed that the themes of destruction, chaos etc really were a fitting description of our sailing style.
Go to Ray's Outdoors (theres one in Geelong), buy a set of replacement poles for a dome tent, 9.5mm diameter, I think around $10.00. Go to a stainless supplier (Geelong Stainless) and buy a bit of tube that you can get said poles to fit into. Squash one end in a vice after fitting a glass tube part way in, drill a hole for the pivot, cut tube to length, wack another bit of stainless on the other end, 3/16" x 3/4" metal threads epoxy them in for pins (make sure they go into the glass tube) and your done. Have done myself and for about $25-30, you've got enough gear to make 2 sets (cause the replacement tent poles come in packs of 4)
Homebuilt Taipan 4.9
AUS 329 'GOT WOOD' SEEDY PIRATES RACING TEAM