I just purchased a 1980 TheMightyHobie18 to keep on a beach and have some trouble with the rudder lock down cams. The previous owner advised that when beaching, you need to release the rudders from their locked position and let them hang idle when near shore. His explanation was that this lets them kick up more easily. They are infact VERY difficult (darn near impossible) to kick them out when they are locked (I have verified this). However, the rudders keep locking themselves once the cams have been disengaged and is nearly impossible to leave them in an unlocked position as well.
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<br>My questions:
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<br>A) should the rudders pop up easily, even if locked in the cam, when striking ground or objects? What would be the recommend solution if this was true?
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<br>B) or should they not lock so easily into the cams and be able to float in the unlocked position as the previous owner recommended? Again - recommended solution?<br><br>[color:blue][b]Jake
<br>[color:blue][b]Nacra 5.2 (2112)
<br>[color:blue][b]Hobie 18 (???)

This is a common problem on the old style rudder cams on the TheMightyHobie18. They are not designed to kick up when striking something. I broke a couple of castings on my previous TheMightyHobie18 because of this. If the cams are lubed well then they lock down too easy. When you release the rudders as you approach the beach they can very well slip back into the locked possition. My suggestion is to get the upgrade to the kick up style. The kits can be obtained from any Hobie supplier and maybe from Murrys or Sailing Pro Shop.
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<br>Good luck
<br>Clayton
<br>H20, H16<br><br>

The Hobie rudder upgrade is about $450.00. A bit pricey, but worth it from what I've been told. Findling replacement parts for the older style is getting harder so either be real attentive to minimize breakage or plan on spending $ for the upgrade.
<br>Good luck,<br><br>Lance
<br>Hobie 18 Magnum
<br>St. Petersburg FL

Sounds like you are cursed with the old style rudder set up. You can verify this by checking to see if the lock-down cams are metal or plastic. Metal = old, plastic = new. Your choices are to figure out ways to live with the cranky old ones or do the upgrade.
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<br>I have the old ones, and have come up with three ways of living with them. One - always keep a tool with a long pointy end that you can fit in from behind the cam and push it down to release it. Two - the top of the lower casting where the capture pin on the upper casting rides is a ramp - make sure that there are no gouges or worn or rough spots - file it to make it a smooth ramp shape. Three - make a release system. I did the latter by drilling a small hole through the back of the cam top to bottom, enabling me to run a small diameter line through it, down to a small turning block attached to the lower pintle/gudgeon area, then back up through a small hole drilled in upper pintle/gudgeon area. Then end of that small line is tied to a larger line that runs along the deck and is tied off loosely to the aft tramp lacing. Now, I can just pull on the line and it releases the cam, allowing the rudder to pop up.
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<br>It still doesn't help the lack of easy release when you hit something, but it makes it easier to keep the rudders released prior to beaching or when sailing in shallow areas.
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<br>I don't have pictures yet of what I'm describing, but if you want I can get some. <br><br>Keith Chapman, Annapolis, Md.
<br>H-18
<br>Northstar 500 (monoslug)
<br>WRCRA - www.wrcra.org

By the way, these old castings are designed to kick up, they just suck at it!<br><br>Keith Chapman, Annapolis, Md.
<br>H-18
<br>Northstar 500 (monoslug)
<br>WRCRA - www.wrcra.org

Thanks for the info! This is a 'secondary' boat for me so spending $450 on a non-crucial item is not very appealing. Keith - I think I understand the modification you are talking about with the chord to disengage the cam. That should work well to suit my needs. Thanks!<br><br>[color:blue][b]Jake
<br>[color:blue][b]Nacra 5.2 (2112)
<br>[color:blue][b]Hobie 18 (???)