| N20 Rudder Issues #158354 10/27/08 08:52 AM 10/27/08 08:52 AM |
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,152 tampa, fl ksurfer2 OP
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Posts: 1,152 tampa, fl | I am having some real issues with the rudders on my N20. About 6 weeks ago, the eyebolt that fits over the top gudgeon and is used to adjust rudder rake sheered off leaving half inside the casting and the ring on the gudgeon. when the rudder flopped over, it broke the lower gudgeon. This occurred while sailing downwind with the kite up in about 20knts of wind. I replaced the eyebolt, and lower gudgeon. Yesterday, sailing upwind in about 15knots, the same thing happend. Neither time did we hit bottom or any other object. The rudders were tuned with only a slight weather helm (I like the feel). About 5 threads showing on the eyebolt. Any thoughts on what is causing this and how to solve the problem?
If your havin girl problems i feel bad for you son I got 99 problems but my beautiful wife ain't one | | | Re: N20 Rudder Issues
[Re: ThunderMuffin]
#158362 10/27/08 09:29 AM 10/27/08 09:29 AM |
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,152 tampa, fl ksurfer2 OP
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Posts: 1,152 tampa, fl | There is no play at all in the rudder assembly (vertical or horizontal). They fit nice and snug on the gudgeons.
If your havin girl problems i feel bad for you son I got 99 problems but my beautiful wife ain't one | | | Re: N20 Rudder Issues
[Re: ksurfer2]
#158369 10/27/08 10:33 AM 10/27/08 10:33 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 12,310 South Carolina Jake
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Posts: 12,310 South Carolina | I've had that happen before too - was it the new one that cracked the second time or the other? Those eyes are susceptible to a lot of cycle loading and prone to fatigue at the weld. Dye crack detection methods are a good idea...or just spend the $30 to replace them both yearly.
With the dye, you spray on the dye, let it sit for a bit, then clean the part off (rag / towel / etc). Then you hit it with a solvent / developer and if you see dye appear in an area, there was a tiny crack it was hiding in. It's tough to use on a weld because the weld surface is usually pretty irregular and hard to get all the dye off to begin with. The better method is magnaflux - but it doesn't work on non-ferrous materials (stainless).
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