| Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Gilo]
#169856 02/28/09 10:32 AM 02/28/09 10:32 AM |
Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 5,525 pgp
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,525 | Yes. The little bolt in the middle of each cleat allows it to be replaced. However, that may be penny wise and pound foolish. The spring inside each cleat also wears. It might be as well to replace whole thing.
Last edited by pgp; 02/28/09 10:33 AM.
Pete Pollard Blade 702
'When you have a lot of things to do, it's best to get your nap out of the way first.
| | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Tony_F18]
#169860 02/28/09 10:51 AM 02/28/09 10:51 AM |
Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 5,525 pgp
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Posts: 5,525 | Now that you mention it! When I've had this problem in the past, the teeth were eroded in the sheeting direction. I wonder if my sheets accumulate salt and grit, and are filing down my cams every time I sheet!
Pete Pollard Blade 702
'When you have a lot of things to do, it's best to get your nap out of the way first.
| | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Gilo]
#169900 02/28/09 06:26 PM 02/28/09 06:26 PM |
Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 3,655 Portland, Maine ThunderMuffin
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Posts: 3,655 Portland, Maine | The newer LINES (not rope, you are on a boat) can overheat and melt the plastic cleats. This my friends, is why they make aluminum cams. Dont get the plastic ones. | | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: HMurphey]
#169938 03/01/09 10:52 AM 03/01/09 10:52 AM |
Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 118 Sail Sand Point, Seattle mike220
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member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 118 Sail Sand Point, Seattle | Strange, I have found that the "puppies" ability to hang onto an old piece of line quite inpressive.
If the little guys could just stay on the round boom it might just work.
Mike Hensel Hobie Tiger
| | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Gilo]
#169986 03/02/09 05:37 AM 03/02/09 05:37 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 9,582 North-West Europe Wouter
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Posts: 9,582 North-West Europe |
I hate to say this guys but Harken hardware hasn't been in the last 5-10 years what it used to be. I was lucky enough to have recognized the early signs back in 2000 and 2001 and opted for a mix of components on my own homebuild boat.
The cam cleats I'm using are Ronstan and not a single one has failed on me yet. On the other hand I can name tens of incidents where the Harken versions failed on other (F16) boats.
For a while now I have been shaking my head at people who want a full harken fit-out on their boat and are willing to pay extra for that. I personally wouldn't even accept that at a discount !
The policy that has worked for me so far is the following :
Small well aligned blocks and cam cleats = Ronstan Small block subjected to abuse = ONLY harken all stainless small block (actually the cheapest Harken components available!) Auto Ratchets : Riley, Ronstan (post 2005) and I think the newest Harken are okay for a try too Metal and plastic hardware like shackles and handles, beads = Wichard, RWO All purpose and spare blocks etc = RWO, Seasure, Rudder pintles = Vidana Traveller tracks = only ball bearing I-tracks from Ronstan, I hate recirculating systems. Use only the 6 wheeled or more cars on high performance cats and you'll be happy ever after. Again, cheap and absolutely no issues with dirt, salt or even track damage.
I dislike jam cleats with a passion as none of them seems to work as expected or when they do then the eat through the lines too quickly.
So my advice would be to replace them with either Riley cleats or Ronstan cleats, I prefer the last. Their is only one real drawback with the ronstan cleats. They typically (if not exclusively) use plastic guiderails. When the line is misaligned it will cut through these guide rails rather quickly. Especially the spi halyard cleat suffers from this. One solution is to remove the plastic guiderails and just fit a metal eyestrap to the top of the cleat using the same bolts that hold the cleat to the beam. The line can now never escape the cleat but pulling it into the cleat under a large angle is sacrifized. When the latter is necessary then going for the Riley imitation is an option as these are supplied with metal guide rails. For much less used cleats like the downhaul cleats, the plastic guiderails of the Ronstans are sufficient and I still don't have any meaningful wear on them there. Additionally, the plastic guiderails are easy to replace.
Good luck !
Wouter
Wouter Hijink Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild) The Netherlands
| | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Wouter]
#170002 03/02/09 10:04 AM 03/02/09 10:04 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, Mike Hill
old hand
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old hand
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, |
I hate to say this guys but Harken hardware hasn't been in the last 5-10 years what it used to be. Wouter
Blasphamy!!!
Mike Hill N20 #1005
| | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Mike Hill]
#170003 03/02/09 10:13 AM 03/02/09 10:13 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 12,310 South Carolina Jake
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Posts: 12,310 South Carolina | yeah, well...I've had nothing but good experiences with Harken hardware and pretty often is some pretty rough circumstances. I've had great experience with their travelers - change the bearings annually and don't put lubricants in them. Lubricants make it more likely for the bearings to slide instead of roll and once they slide, they create a flat spot on them which leads to more sliding and more flat spotting.
I've used some Ronstan cleats and hardware here and there and it also seems to perform quite well. I think the thing you need to walkaway from this thread is that the hardware is usually designed to carry and operate with a certain load and in a certain position. No matter who manufactures it, you need to take care that you are using the gear in the appropriate manner - i.e., don't use a plastic fairlead when you will be drawing lengthy bits of line at off angles - it will burn. Use metal fairleads here. Don't use a plastic cleat on your high load applications - read the specifications.
Jake Kohl | | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Jake]
#170013 03/02/09 10:52 AM 03/02/09 10:52 AM | andrewscott
Unregistered
| andrewscott
Unregistered | also make sure you pull the line up (and out of the teeth) when sheeting in... i burned through a ronstan spin halyard cleat in a few months.. not thinking about the line angle. | | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: Jake]
#170022 03/02/09 11:35 AM 03/02/09 11:35 AM |
Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 5,582 “an island in the Pacifi... hobie1616
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Posts: 5,582 “an island in the Pacifi... | Lubricants make it more likely for the bearings to slide instead of roll and once they slide, they create a flat spot on them which leads to more sliding and more flat spotting. What do you think about liquid dishwasher soap? US Sail Level 2 Instructor US Sail Level 3 Coach | | | Re: Harken Cam cleat
[Re: hobie1616]
#170023 03/02/09 11:41 AM 03/02/09 11:41 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 3,293 Long Beach, California John Williams
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Posts: 3,293 Long Beach, California | Liquid soap is a good trick to load bearings, but if you're squirting soap in there as a lubricant, you trap sand and (as Jake already said) preventing the bearings from rolling at the same time. You'll have etched, flat bearings in a fairly short period of time.
John Williams
- The harder you practice, the luckier you get - Gary Player, pro golfer
After watching Lionel Messi play, I realize I need to sail harder.
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