I have and old...very old...Loos gauge, which I want to throw out.
http://www.binksonline.com.au/store/images/loos%20gauge%20sm.jpg

I also have a nice newer different model Loos gauge, which I want to use. http://www.stargear.net/images/Products/Misc%20Items/Loos%20Gauge.jpg

Problem is how to convert info/data from the old style to the newer model

Can anyone tell me how to convert?

In other words, 34 on the old loos means what on the new?

This might help.

I'd just measure a few different setups with both gauges and see how close they are to one another?

They are some where between 8-10 different. the older silver one will read higher numbers at the same tension.

the problem with the silver model is over time they bend and give different readings to a new one. thus making a conversion impossible.

i would just measure the range you using now (loose medium and tight) and make a note of both readings.

Is there a one-to-one relationship in the readings between the gauges? My old gauge is worn out and unreliable.

Definitely not.

0 on both = 0

45 on the silver = 35 on the black one.

best guess would be a 18% difference, without getting the calculator out! yeah I know.. I'm sitting in front of a huge calculator...

So if I understand correctly and remember algebra, if I worked in the range of 32-36 on the old silver Loos, I'll be working in the range of 26-30 on the new black Loos. Right?

Sounds like you would be in the right range, maybe one or two out but a good place to start from.

Here is a conversion guide:

http://www.northsails.com/tuninggui...eConversionChart/tabid/9201/Default.aspx

Remember the gauges lose some of their accuracy as they age...

At the Admirals cup this past weekend we had a silver one and 2 black(pt1?) and they all read different.
Any of you come up with a formula to read rod rigging or di-form and get an equal number to 10x19 wire?
Todd

I think that any meaningful conversion between the 2 devices is practically impossible, as the silver ones rely upon the elastic properties of a piece of aluminum welded to another piece of aluminum-enough pulls and that property in aluminum is bound to change, I think. I know this is not a satisfying reply, but...

Of the 2 devices, the one with the wheels is much more consistent and better calibrated to the expected bend occurring from a static force and tension in the various caliber wound wires-just a better design overall. I have found that the 'spring and wheel guages' generally give pretty close readings (from one of the same devices to the next). Finally, A loos guage only gets you close to the rigging tension-good enough to be consistent if the device used and wire caliber are consistent, but not good enough to compare between different types of instruments, or be fully accurate based on the material composition. It's a lot cheaper than the piezo electric alternative which cost thousands.

Thanks for all the info.

It seems clear that the two devices are quite different and there readings relate in a non-linear way. Nonetheless, I've determined that the typical working range of 32-38 on the Model A is similar to readings of 24-30 on the newer model, which I'll be using from now on.