I used to sail a sloop, and will again soon. I assume barberhaulers are still faster than not, right?
<br>Last time I added barbehaulers, I bought the Murray's kit for NACRA, which had the Harken exit blocks that you mounted on the front beam, with line running inside front beam. I'm not opposed to doing this again, I just remember my crew always complaining about the large cleat bruising her butt. So, I'm trying to think of alternatives, especially if they keep the tramp area "clean".
<br>1. smaller cleat, e.g. a jam cleat which has integral roller. Mounted in same location, with line inside beam, but smaller cleat.
<br>2. Single cleating location - maybe central. One exit block, near center of beam or on one side??, which leads to both ends of beam. Cleat once at windward mark, release at leeward.
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<br>I guess other ideas are possible on boats which have different size jibs or beams, but for 8'6" NACRAs, I think best location to pull jibleads towards is a point somewhere between leeward end of beam and the leeward shroud, right?
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<br>Ideas welcomed.
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<br>Jim Casto
<br>N5.5 bi #456
<br>(i.e. races uni, soon to play as a sloop)<br><br>

The NACRA 5.5SL jib overlaps the main beam enough such that the lead blocks for the barberhauler need to run on a wire or super low stretch cordage that runs from the outboard beam chip back to the shroud chainplate. If you try to run off the main beam the lead is actually forward of the clew which is a poor choice if one is seeking better boat speed.
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<br>write back with any other questions or if you are unsure how to intall this correctly.
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<br>Mark A. Michaelsen ~MM~
<br>SPS Website: http://www.sailingproshop.com
<br>Small Craft Advisories Sailing Centers
<br>1244 Pacific Coast Highway
<br>Seal Beach, Ca 90740
<br>(562) 594-8749 Voice
<br>(562) 594-0208 FAX
<br>(800) 354-7245 Order Line
<br>(714) 238-0925 International Voice Mail/Pager
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<br><br><br>Mark A. Michaelsen ~MM~
<br>1244 Pacific Coast Highway
<br>(562) 594-8749 Voice
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My 6.0 I bought used came with an internal barberhauler system in the front beam. It is a single line that sheets both the barbers at the same time, no need to release and recleat on a jibe. A single line runs out an exit block near the center/aft front beam. I like the system, and still use it. It helped clean up the front of my tramp a little. Now with the chute, etc., it's nice to have afew LESS lines up there.
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<br>Todd<br><br>

Thanks, Todd. I assume there's one or two small pulleys inside the front beam to route the single cleating line to another line that goes to both ends of the beam, right? Or have you found the magical piece of rope with 3 ends?
<br>Jim<br><br>

Thanks, Mark, I've actually seen it rigged the way you mention, and figured that's what I'd end up doing also.
<br>But, if that's the right location for the lead block, maybe there's a better location for the line itself, for instance, another block to send the line through the tunnel across the tramp, where the jib wires are. Then the cleating system wouldn't be hidden in the front beam, but it would give other options.
<br>Jim<br><br>

Thats right, one side has a complete line, and one has a small block attahed to the end, all inside of the front beam. slots with small pulleys were put at the exit points of each end of the front crossbar. It really works well.
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<br>Todd<br><br>

Hey Todd,

Could you describe for me your barberhauler system. I've acquired a Tornado and am redoing/upgrading the rigging to clean it up, etc. Interested in looking around for the "best" system.

Thanks

Ron

My advice is to put a spinnaker on the boat and forget about a barberhauler. The jib is not much of a working sail if you have a 200 sq ft plus sail up there. then you just cleat the jib so is kind of draws but does not stall. Self tacking jib will help with downwind handling as well.

Later,
Dan

Thanks Dan
Ron