I would like to go back to having adjustable trapeze system on the cat, any recommendations on which is the best system out there?

*Okay* is the classic camcleat with roller thingy. See the application notes for the camcleat CL253. There are rings with pulley, or you can attach a pulley to a ring for the bottom. The problem with such a system is where to attach the shockcord. Most people attach it to the ring which has the unfortunate side effect of pulling it down away from the hook. Bad.

*best* is to put the camcleat on top of a double pulley like the Marstrom carbon block.

I can't find a good pic, but I'm sure someone has one somewhere. You fix the camcleat to the wire/line in the eye under the handle and make a 2:1 to the double pulley. On the second pulley you pass a line attached on one side to your trapeze ring (or ball if you want to go to the best and use a Bethwaite system) and on the other to the shockcord keeping it in place, with a ball to stop the line. See the "no-cut hi-low trapeze hardware kit" page 48 of the Murray's catalog for inspiration, noting that the clamcleat is missing the crucial D plastic ring listed in the clamcleat application notes. Think about it, and you'll see why you need it.

Typically on a two man boat only the front trapeze needs to be adjustable as the range of position the crew can move to is varied. The skipper usually doesn't move that much and doesn't need the added hardware/expense.

I'm feed up putting dings in my boat whilst falling off / climbing back on, from the trapeze hook. Has anyone details of the ball type that I can view or has anyone good bad experiences ?

Generally good experience. You'll have to put a knot in your righting line. In the past, I had always allowed the righting line to slide around the hook during the righting process. Now, no hook!

Also, the handles from the rig I bought weren't strong enough. The first time I went out in a hurry, the shock collapsed the handles, dropping my butt in the water. Haven't yet decided what the cure will be, probably a piece of fiberglass rod taped into the recess of the existing (collapsed) handles

I've looked into it a while back, with the intention of converting to the ball and socket system, but I balked at the price. The plate for your harness run around a 100 (£ in the UK, $ in the US) and then you have to add a pair of ball handles. For me with four trapezes and 2 harness to equip both me and my crew I can't justify the expense.

The issue is that the system is patented, so nobody can duplicate it and the current manufacturer keep the prices high. This said I'm not sure that the cost of the plate is that outrageous, after all it's all carbon. For a while Hobie licensed it and was making plastic plates but apparently they all exploded after a while, not solid enough.

Inception of the system.

A review of the system

See also page 46 of the Murray's catalog.

As far as adjustable trap heights go, and usuing the typical ring and hook system:

Instead og the adjustable trap height systems out there, (and there are some good ones), I like the dogbone rings, or the keyhole looking rings.

This gives two distinct places to hook in, which ever id chosen just befroe trapping out. they are usually 4-6 inches apart, allowing for two distinct heights.

Yes, I know this is not nearly the range of the adjustable system, but it never fails, and is inexpensive!

With alittle adjustment before going out, this has always worked for me.

I know the adjustable sysems typically go to the crew first.. but since i solo often and can go from beam to beam.. i use and love it on the skipper's trap

True. In fact that's the system I have. I didn't think about it when asked about an "adjustable system"

I have dogbones with two distinct holes. I don't even have a pulley, the line just slides in the eye of the trap line, I don't think you can do a trapeze line with less hardware.

Talking about trapeze, what trick do you use to connect the tensionning shock cord to the trapeze line? I use a knot, but knots on shock cord have an annoying tendency to invert and slip, even when taped...

i tie a truckers hitch (or a double slip knot) in the bungee and that never comes out.. i then tie a bowline from the trap handle to it...

you can see it here on this red line

Slight hijack. Does anyone know where to get the Marstrom type adjustable traps that come on the Hobie Formula 18s? They have the post welded to a smashed oval ring that orients itself in a folded fiberglass or carbon block. I've checked online with no luck.I would guess Hobie Europe, but can't find anything.

Thanks

I'm sure marstrom will ship it to you. For a price.

Have you tried the dutch hobiecat online store? http://www.catparts.nl/
They have both the carbon and aluminum versions.

Make a simple loop at the end of the shockcord about 3cm long.
Then put a single knot at the end of the trapeze line, although it is probably already there for the stopperball.
Now just loop the shockcord loop around the knot sort of like a prusik knot.
Best thing about it is that you can take it of without having to take something apart.

That's it.
Thanks

Pepin,
I also have the dogbones with different holes, and just installed my shock cords (should there be any slack when they are de-rigged, or should they pull flush against their mounts?). I am still trying to decide on how I'll rig my trapezes on a Nacra 5.0. Your claim of minimal hardware appeals to me. How do you rig yours up?

ccmax:

First time a dogbone hits you in the teeth you will go back to the rubber coated handles. Trust me

Doug

Redneck Todd... are you going to order it?
Want to get a group buy together and split shipping?
Maybe we can even ask for a 10% discount for a group buy? haha Worth asking.... don't think we can get these anywhere in the U.S.... Nacra quoted something outrageous like 400+ for the kit

The different hardware is all really personal preference.

Myself i allways have adjustables on all my traps, mainly because i trapeze so low that i need them to get down there, but along with that im usally changing my height often. When its light crewing i adjust up and trapeze off the adjuster string so i can trim the main from the wire earlyier and move my weight around more. And downwind i need a adjustable on the helms to be able to trap low when the breeze up out the back and get high when its lighter.

There are different options to what you can have.

If you've got the dosh then one of the best systems is the mastrom one, that nacra and hobie sell also, where you have a wrapped aluminum (or carbon) around two sheaves. Then the ring slots up inside it nice and tidly.

Cheaper is to just have a simple 2:1 system like most dinghies have, only prob is that the ring can fall off but then you just need to adjust up each tack.

Attach a length of rope to a ring of a dogbone, thread it through the eye at the end of your trapeze line, wrap it around a plastic trapeze stopper (rectangular plastic block with two holes), attach to a shock cord going to the trapeze on the other side. The shock cord must be tight enough to pull the dogbone to the top. Done.

No pulley, no complicated setup, simple and easy. Adjustment is minimal, has you really have only two positions depending on which ring you use on the dogbone.