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spinaker blocks #19774
05/20/03 09:00 PM
05/20/03 09:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1
Thailand
speckled_dog Offline OP
stranger
speckled_dog  Offline OP
stranger

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1
Thailand
I sail a 7 year old Hobie 18sx in Thailand and am considering buying ratcheting blocks for the spinaker sheets. Could anyone with experience with these types of blocks give me some advice as to whether they work well or not and which is the best. Thanks.

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Re: spinaker blocks [Re: speckled_dog] #19775
05/21/03 07:19 AM
05/21/03 07:19 AM
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 397
Burlington, Vermont USA
K
Kevin Rose Offline
enthusiast
Kevin Rose  Offline
enthusiast
K

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 397
Burlington, Vermont USA
Harken Carbo Ratchamatic #2625


Kevin Rose N6.0na #215 Lake Champlain (New England's "west coast") Burlington, Vermont
Re: spinaker blocks [Re: speckled_dog] #19776
05/21/03 01:10 PM
05/21/03 01:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,590
Naples, FL
waterbug_wpb Offline
Carpal Tunnel
waterbug_wpb  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,590
Naples, FL
I've used Harken's older ratchet blocks and now have the carbo rachematics. Big improvement in both light air spin sheet handling and snuffing. Since the older rachet blocks were either "on" or "off", things could get ugly if conditions change quickly. My I-20 has four blocks for the spin sheet, and in the "old" system, I would switch two blocks (one on each side) off for light air. Of course, if it picked up when we were on the wire, my crew just had to suck it up.

The other issue was jybing and snuffing the sail. With the older ratched blocks, it wouldn't take much for them to grab the spin sheet when running through the blocks for a jybe or snuff, because they were either on or off.

With the carbo rachematics, you can vary the load necessary to 'activate' the ratchets. For example, I have the ratchet closest to the clew of the spin set firmly, so it will easily run in a jybe or snuff. The block closest to the crew is set to engage at a lower load, so that it will engage almost as soon as the line is grabbed. When the line is released, both ratchets disengage, allowing the sheet to run free. The flapping spin won't engage the first blocks, as they are set for a higher load.

Sheeting the spin is the same for both systems, and usually quite a burden when the wind picks up and we have to point high...

Since the upgrade to these blocks, we've dramatically increased the ease of jybing and snuffing. Now all I have to remember is to keep my fat A** off the spin sheets when we're jybing!

Just remember, speed ain't cheap.


Jay

Re: spinaker blocks [Re: speckled_dog] #19777
05/21/03 05:04 PM
05/21/03 05:04 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 75
Jensen Beach, FL
BlowMe Offline
journeyman
BlowMe  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 75
Jensen Beach, FL
If you are using an older boat and dont want to spend alot of $$$.... You should find some used older ratchamatic blocks(363's). They work great as a "stand alone" system until it starts blowing. If you use a small spin this alone would probably be enough on your boat. You can also add the old "doubler" cam cleat to the rear beam along with a set of small blocks(082's or 098's) attached to the bottom of the spin to get 2:1 on the spin sheet.

Along with the ratchamatics you can monunt another set of "cheap" used ratcheting blocks(ie: 019's) forward of the ratchamatics for even more holding power and a better wrap around all the sheaves.

All of the above does tend to "soak up the sheet"..... So be sure you have enough sheet to do it, or plan on replacing it.

Everybody is upgrading to the new Carbo air blocks so finding the old stuff should'nt be very hard.

You dont have to spend a lot of money to go fast!!

AJ
Nacra 6.0 Express


Moderated by  Damon Linkous 

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