| Broken N20 Mast Base Casting #199595 12/28/09 12:31 PM 12/28/09 12:31 PM |
Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1 jpeil OP
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Posts: 1 | Hi all. Just purchased a 2001 N20. Had a question regarding a partially broken mast base casting. I don't have a picture at the moment but the damage is to one side of the casting. Essentially, one of the holes where the clevis pin goes through has broken off. One hole still remains. Is there any danger during sailing in regards to the mast getting knocked off if (when) I capsize or perhaps in strong gusts or maybe another condition?
I was able to step the mast down with no problem for winterizing this past weekend. It seems (from online research) that the two holes for the clevis pin are purely to aid in stepping the mast. But it would be nice to get some ideas from people more experienced.
Also, how involved is the replacement process for a N20 mast base casting if I decide to undertake that. Is it something that can be done by me or should I hire someone to look into it? I don't really have a lot of experience in boat repair.
Last edited by jpeil; 12/28/09 12:36 PM.
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: jpeil]
#199604 12/28/09 03:11 PM 12/28/09 03:11 PM |
Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL waterbug_wpb
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Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL | If it's just the hole that the pin goes in, I don't think there should be an issue. It is not recommended that you sail with that pin in place, anyway. If the mast falls down while sailing (for some strange reason like a parted shroud or something), you don't want that pin causing more damage.
Under normal (and some not-normal) sailing conditions, the shrouds and forestay keep the mast in place if they are tensioned properly. Even after you flip, there is sufficient tension to keep that mast situated properly on the mast ball. I've never seen it come off unless something catastrophic happened first (shroud pin breaking, damage to main beam, etc)
If you're comfortable raising and lowering the mast without the pin (not recommended, but possible) I see no need to spend a lot of time worrying about it. The pin is supposed to keep the mast from slipping off that ball while you're raising/lowing it.
while you're on the topic, couple of things to check each time you're going to sail:
- all pins checked, secured with ringding and preferably taped in place. This includes shroud, forestay, bridle wire, and spin bridle pins)
- shackle at mast hounds (where shrouds and forestay meet at top of mast) is properly fastned so it won't unscrew and part while sailing (yes, it's happened)
- check the hounds where all the wires meet - sometimes that hole stretches out and develops a crack which might eventually fail
- shroud chainplates need inspection to see if they might let go. I don't know of any that have (for something other than the pin falling out)
Jay
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: Keith]
#201730 02/01/10 02:41 PM 02/01/10 02:41 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, Mike Hill
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Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, | If you are pulling the mast base off anyway you might as well go with the new style rotation system.
I had one with a broken pin hole like yours. I stepped it that way for a couple of years before I finally sold it. I always tied a safety line to the dolphin striker and I had someone pull the mast base toward the ball as I stepped the mast.
Or just replace it. Anybody know if it's glued in or not? If it's glued in you might have a problem replacing it easily.
Mike Hill N20 #1005
Mike Hill N20 #1005
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: Keith]
#202890 02/11/10 01:08 PM 02/11/10 01:08 PM |
Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... TeamChums
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Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... | Keith, I switched to the rotator on the base a few years ago and love it. I had a big grommet added just behind the halyard pocket for the rotator limiter line. I did it pretty much Hobie 20 style. It adjusts much easier and will over rotate much easier when setting the spinn.
Lee
Keyboard sailors are always faster in all conditions.
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: TeamChums]
#203979 02/20/10 11:02 AM 02/20/10 11:02 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 1,459 Annapolis,MD Keith
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Posts: 1,459 Annapolis,MD | Keith, I switched to the rotator on the base a few years ago and love it. I had a big grommet added just behind the halyard pocket for the rotator limiter line. I did it pretty much Hobie 20 style. It adjusts much easier and will over rotate much easier when setting the spinn. Lee - did the grommet on the tramp interfere with the snuffer line/grommet at all? Also, are you still using the lines/cleats on the boom/mast to force/lock the rotation? Thinking back to H-20 days and the bungee system to force rotation, with the limiter keeping it in check... | | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: Keith]
#204157 02/23/10 07:09 AM 02/23/10 07:09 AM |
Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... TeamChums
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Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... | Less force is needed to induce rotation. The angle of the mainsheet blocks is pretty good, so when you sheet in, it pushes the boom forward naturally. It actually over rotates easier without all that line running through the blocks in the cascading system. My retrieval line grommet is just off to the left and right behind the halyard pocket with the rotator grommet centered behind the pocket. I simply drilled through the base and added the rotator arm like the 6.0 was, only with the arm facing rearward. The new base actually puts the arm a little further back. At the time I did it, Nacra didn't have the new (or old for that matter) bases available, so thats why I used an old style base. You may want to add a small piece of spectra to hold the arm up off the tramp like the H20 did. I do still use the cleats on the boom to lock it over in distance reaching with the chute.
Lee
Keyboard sailors are always faster in all conditions.
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: wildtsail]
#204217 02/23/10 09:46 PM 02/23/10 09:46 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 1,459 Annapolis,MD Keith
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Posts: 1,459 Annapolis,MD | With the rotator at the base there is a pretty sweet posi rotator system... works much better than the boom idea... Got this idea from Mike Krantz... A few inches inboard of the jib cleats put a cheeckblock on the top of your beam... in front but a bit out of line (so it can stay uncleated) put a cleat... repeat on the other side.... tie a line from the end of the rotator arm, by the cleat, through the cheek block, across the front beam, past the mast base through the cheek block on the other side, by the cleat and tied to the rotator bar again. You pull in on the windward side and cleat it off. My boat is inaccessable to take a pic but i've really liked this system. A pic or a diagram would be cool if you can! I've been thinking of ways to force the rotation without the usual boom cleats, this sounds hopeful... | | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: Keith]
#204226 02/24/10 08:36 AM 02/24/10 08:36 AM |
Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... TeamChums
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Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... | Keith, The N20's mainsheet blocks hang from the boom to the rear cross beam at such an angle that when you sheet in, it forces rotation by pushing the boom forward. The F18 is more vertical and pulls more down than forward. Anything more complicated isn't really needed.
Lee
Keyboard sailors are always faster in all conditions.
| | | Re: Broken N20 Mast Base Casting
[Re: Chris9]
#204249 02/24/10 12:03 PM 02/24/10 12:03 PM |
Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... TeamChums
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Posts: 1,304 Gulf Coast relocated from Cali... | I guess everyone keeps missing the point. WITHOUT all the cascading line from the boom mounted rotator preventer, the mast over rotates EASILY and EFFORTLESSLY.
Lee
Keyboard sailors are always faster in all conditions.
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