Hey guys this is my first post but I've been stalking on here for a couple years. But anyhow..

I'm replacing my mast step and have read how to but what worry's me is the fact that I think this will be the third mast step on the crossbeam and the holes that are there are wallered out from previous drilling. I was thinking welding them but the heat treatment is an issue.

So now I'm down to either just putting six rivets (3 in the front and 3 in the rear) in it and hoping that the outer rivets hold

Using bigger rivets then recommended

or buying a new crossbeam which I can't afford right now.

What do you think guys?

btw my mast base has crap for threads where the dolphin striker screws in, are they all that way? or do i need to tap it?

Where are you located? There are tons of good used crossbars available for very little money. I gave at least 3 or 4 away for free.

With some patience and a extra hand you might try to use a bolt - screw to hold it in place. Put a wrench on a batten, a dab of contact cement on the nut washer to hold it on the wrench, slide it in the beam and good luck.

On a curved beam?

Why not? I think the curve would hold the nut closer to the top of the beam. It's certainly worth the try. Probably only nedd a couple 1/4-20's to hold down the base as compared to all those rivets. I would something like tefgel to coat the bolts-beam holes and bolt it together. Use nylocks or locktite.

Run a stiff wire through the hole(s)in the beam; slip the wire through the nut, bend the wire to hold the nut; pull the wire back until the nut is lined-up with the hole; "goo" the nut in place. When the "goo" sets, put the base in place, screw in the bolts. Maybe?

Oh, pull the wire out at some point.

I'm thinking no matter how you do it you still want to get the wrench to work on the inside in case you have to take it apart.

You could have the holes welded as long as the welder doesn't stay on it too long. To get all the corroded alluminum out, drill each hole out a little larger and take it to a welder. I've done it on my H21SE, crossbeams and mast.

I live northeast TN

Have thought of that, maybe put the bolt inside the cross bar and the nut on top of the mast step, the curve should keep the bolt from spinning... I guess I would have to use some puddy or something and drill the mast step from underneath...

That aluminum is 6061 T6 which good stuff and has been very heat treated... I don't have access to an annealing oven or the funds to operate one. Welding it would weaken it by 70%

Thanks for the replies, this forum is great.

Can you use the mast plugs that are used to seal the rivits on the mast. They will expand to fill a larger hole.

Or.

Get a larger piece of metal, rivit to the beam and then reset the mast base.

Depending on the year of the boat there is probably a few hardwood strips that were driven up inside of the crossbar. They will never come out, so getting a wrench in there is impossible. Even if they weren't getting a wrench up in there sounds like a real test of patience.

I would either get a used xbar, or go 1/4" rivets. Use stainless and have someone pull them with a real rivet gun, you'll probably never do it with a hand gun. I carefully mark the rivet holes so that I hit the existing holes exactly. Take your time, drill once measure 4 times.

Sail on!

j

Not entirely true, hence my comment about the welder staying on it too long. Changes on strength depend on heat, time and amount of weld depsosited, which contributes to your heat affected zone, not to mention the type of force being applied under working load. Not sure how you were able to come up with the calculations to indicate a 70% weakening. Alluminum can actually be heat treated without needing to be annealed, especially for this aplication. Good luck.

It should be pretty easy to get a piece of scrap mast extrusion and cut a scab that can be riveted over the whole swiss cheese area. You will probaly need to use a body hammer to adjust the shape for a tight and conforming fit on the curved beam (we are working on an H16 aren't we?).

Once formed it can bet set in epoxy and riveted in the corners. The new mast base can then be mounted using the conventional procedure.

Having said that, a used beam would seem to be the best and easiest solution.

Nutserts I used these on my Hobie 18. They come in aluminum and work great.
Nutsert is bascially a rivet with threads. You can buy a package with the nutsert tool for about $25 at Northern tool or maybe your local hardware store.

thats an awesome name!

"Why'd she kick you?"
"I don't know, but my nutsert."