i got rid of the micro blocks and went to 2" rings.. just so it couldn't bind.

let me know how that works for you

looks like you have 4mm robline dingy control line (dynema core with jacket). Is that correct? did you strip the jacket off anywhere?

So far no jamming has happened.Im sure it will at the most inapropiate time though! We got out last weekend in 15knot glassy water as the wind came from 180 degrees from usual westerlies. The wind blew out from the land,so no waves. We gps'd under the T spin at 31klm and found that my worries of a mast snapping wont happen. The forces were enough to lift two adult males into the sky. I did see the mast flex a lot,but feel confident it will stand the test of time.Great suggestion on the T spin...it rocks! Go big or go home! I have two retrieval points (sewn in grommets) and run my return line through the first hole and out the back of the spin to the top retireval hole. Im a bit worried about burning the sail with it this way. Do most run the retireval line for the spin straight up the inside of the sail? I think this may be the case.......
Also to answer your question,I havent figured out how to make that smooth connection to the sail with the sheets.Ive read a bit about using a continuous loop with the ends of the sheets jointed at the deck. Gosh I didnt measure the line,but use the same as my Haulyard on the mast. Its definatley static,but Im not sure of the brand.
Richard,

yes, that is preferred for the reason you gave.. less friction from line on spin. I have a 2 patch system as well. the first one i sewed in a small piece of fabric to pass the retrevial line through, and on the top patch i did the same but on the outside of the spin (so i feed a loop through a small hole) and tie off my retrieval line there (i pass it through so it spreads the load of the "pull" across more area of the sail/patch, helping avoid a tear). All the line is on the inside (on a port tack) which is the same side as my snuffer ring. I can snuff on a starboard tack if i have to, but try not to to reduce wear on my spin. Many racers create tapered lines (using the line i mentioned above, or similar) because the dyneema core is very slick (reducing friction, but not good in a cleat, hence the taper to leave the jacket on areas that are either handled or cleated)



not 100% what you are saying here, but Most people will start out with the bitter ends of 1 line tied to the clew plate. i PERSONALLY cut my spin sheet short, so i needed to add a small extension to the clew (about 2' of dyneema spliced to the clew with another spliced hole in it that i tie my sheet to).

The exception to doing this method is to add a line to the clewplate and sew or splice it into the middle of your spin sheet. then you can either tie the ends together in the middle of your tramp, or simply tie stopper knots at the ends to prevent them from sliding out the spin block.. and let them flap around. i already have 10000 lines around my decks, i dont want more.. plus i would run over the slack, and lastly i dont want to be funblin for line when i am gybing my spin.