hell. That ain't bad. I had a boat named A2M. Stood for "butt To Mouth". and you never go butt to mouth.

Never say never Karl. I'll introduce you to my ex wife.

So much for circling the drain...

Good one,John,good one.

FredS CAN31

Karl:

You sound like you are looking for trouble...

John & Dan you may want to recommend this guy to the ABYC crew, he really does great work.

ASMOF he called me yesterday to make certain I was happy with everything

All Karl has to do to find trouble is look in the mirror.

Ten years ago I was trouble. Now days, I'm pretty boring. The constantly drunk, fighting, adrenaline junky is no more. I've been diminished to just the occasional pain in the butt.

Hi V Red,

I'm thinking of redoing my ol' P19MX new spring, as I put a crease in the starboard bow when moving the boats around last year in the backyard ( my H18Mag won the argument w/ my P19MX ) ... and as you know I live on the east coast, so I do not think it is possible to have Jesus do the repair work. I usually work w/ WEST Epoxy making "filler" as needed. But I am curious as to what products did Jesus use ... and were the hulls painted or re-gellcoated ???

Thanks
Harry

Harry:

To do the filling they used a product called Dyna Glass. A lot cheaper than West Systems and is already set up with the filler in this case fiberglass. Few other guys I talked with told me this is what the use for fairing hulls As for the final finish it was gel coated with a helleva damm good match. There are a couple of spots where if you look real close you can see the transition form the old to the new, but you really need to look.

I really wish I had taken a few more before pic of the boat.


Here you go these may help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWEE6SFUdpg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en-8SbhdF_k

P.S. Jesus is getting a pound of scrapple for Christmas!!!!!

Just make sure he slices it into 1/4-1/2" slices and fries/cooks it using a well seasoned cast iron skillet .... when you deep fry it like some diners do, it is too greasy.

(I just had a vision of trying to cook a (1)lb block of Habbersats Scrapple ...HaHaHa)

He'll need a bottle of Hienz Ketchup also ....

Thanks for the info ...

Harry

how is dynaglass different from bondo?

Dyna Glass has glass strands mixed in it. Bondo doesn"t. For repairs that are deeper(thicker) using something like Dyna Glass will help ensure that it will be less likely to crack. For things like scratches using a glazing putty like Evercoat is better. It's all about the type of filler used to make the putty. Some are stronger, some are easier to sand. I like to use gel coat and add my own mix of fillers depending on what needs to be done.

That is my preferred method as well, that is mix up some gel coat with colloidal silica West Systems #406(wear a mask when using this stuff, it will shred your lungs)to the point to where it has the viscosity between mayonnaise and peanut butter. My Prindle's and 5.8 have plenty of these little patches on them and they held up very well.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/product-selection-chart/

I believe all the bondo type products are polyester resin. At least they used to be. Polyester can be thickened with cab-o-sil which I think is collodial silica.

The traditional problem with bondo is that it started out using talc as a thickener which led to water absorbancy problems.

Newer products, particularly those described as lite, may not be so prone to absorbancy.

I've been using a lite body filler on my Blade for some time and have had no problems.

What do you do about gelcoat crazing? Im restoring a 1963 Boston Whaler, and have begun to Dremel out the Gelcoat cracks with the thought of using a filler afterwards. Is there a better way?

I sure hope you're talking about a Supercat catamaran that was built after Bosten Whaler bought the outfit for a short time. This 'aint no stinkpot forum.

Such harsh words from Jake. So lets assume it is the cat version, or even if it is not the answer is the same. Crazing is cause by the gel coat being too thick due gel coat not having any flexabilty while the glass has some. Dremeling and filling will probably result in more of the same. I would recommend taking the gelcoat off completely, or at the very least almost completely. An air file with some 60 grit will do with some effort. In the right hands a belt sander on low speed with some 120 will make quick work of it, but if you are not carefull it will make things very bad in .21 seconds. If you use the belt sander plan to fair the surface out using 3M piranah putty or similar product. You can that paint or regelcoat (my suggestion) after that.

David and I go back quite some time and I was ribbing him because it sounds like he bought a motor boat instead of getting back into catamaran sailing like he's been talking about for the better part of two years! It was in good jest.

Do you have a picture? I think crazing involves a fine spider web of cracks over a large area.