I know that Rick recommends switching in a 10 hole adjuster and Harken makes a low profile 4:1 mainsheet for the Wave. The idea being to get more rake and load up the rudders. When you do that do you redrill the rudders to push them forward and minimize tiller pull? How much did you move yours?

You don't want to do any drilling until you get the mast and sail the way you want it. You can also get H17/18/20 upper arms that are adjustable. I asume you have the early style arms. The H17/18/20 arms are interchangeable and they are adjustable.

Well I for sure don't understand that. The position of the front hole in the rudder determines the rake. The tiller assembly pushes the top of the rudder back, bottom of the rudder goes forward, so that it touches the front of the lower rudder casting. What's adjustable? The little screw in the lower casting only adjusts how deep you want the hole punched in your rudder.

So assume that you didn't change your rudders. Do you have tiller pull? How much?

I'm not sure your level of experience. However, the last part of tuning is to adjust the rudders for helm feel. My point was...get the sail set the way you want it and then determine how much helm you have. It will most likely be weather helm, but you may be surprised that it isn't too much.

Drilling is a hit and miss proposal and it may not take much to get the feel you want. The adjustable arms make it so you don't have to drill, you can just make small changes as appropriate.

The adjustable upper arms have a bolt and plate that can be moved to adjust rudder rake. You can actually convert the non-adjustable arms to adjustable, but it takes some skill with a drill press and file.

You can put one or two washers behind the top gudgeon for a small adjustment.

You guys, you guys. OK I guessed and drilled the holes 1/8" forward which should move the rudder forward about 3/8" in the middle. You can check back with me in the spring, late spring, and ask me how that is working for me.
There's an adjustment on the top of the H20 tiller arms to make sure that the cam is fully engaged. I guess if you like slop you could use that to adjust rudder rake.
Using washers under the top gudgens is actually a pretty good idea for a quick check. I'm horrified, of course, at the idea. My little 1/8" nudge is probably about 3 washers. Presumably the factory made the plates inside a reasonable size assuming the bolts would be fully engaged. However, my problem is resolved for now, and I'll start checking and redrilling in the spring.

Have a happy New Year!

You can use a flat stainless plate that is the same shape as the gudgeon as thick as you dare to get it out from the boat.
We'll miss you "Cody"

No slop. That is what the little delrin allen screw does. However, on my Wave with H20 arms, the rudders seat exactly in the housings without any need for the screws to be engaged. If I wanted less weather helm I guess I would need to redrill, but it is perfect now and I have all the mast rake I want.

Well Jack, according to me, as I facetiously indicated above, what the steel allen grub screw does is punch a hull in the front of your rudder. That's why you really want your " ... rudders (to) seat exactly in the housings without any need for the screws to be engaged." Are you using a 10 hole adjuster? What hole are you in? How much tiller tug (apparent weather helm) do you have?

I have a 10 holer and sometimes add a shackle to the end of it. I do not have any shackles on my bridles, however.

I like about 12-16 inches between the clew and the rear beam, depending on wind and instinct, which is hard to define.

My helm is close to neutral, just slightly weather.

Thank You


That little bit of information would saved me some time last spring. My Wave is very early and things don't seem to be in the same position as the newer ones. When I setup my New Calvert main with new rigging and a 10 hole adjuster, it jammed the tiller. It took me awhile to set the rake. I settled on the clew about 2 inches above the tiller crossbeam, with the suspicion that I could rake it forward.

A separate question, have you had problems with the part of the comtip in the mast wearing and do you glue the comtip in place? I think some slop has developed in mine. It's on my list to check this winter.

I haven't really noticed any problem with the joint. My boat is a 2006 and may not have had as much use as yours.

My joint fits very tightly. I see no problem with gluing it but that would be permanent, of course.