I was thinking of 2 pairs 5' x 5' scaffold on a flat bed trailer, loading from the top down, using a pair of main sheet and blocks to lift bow and stern.
Last edited by pgp; 04/27/1108:09 AM.
Pete Pollard Blade 702
'When you have a lot of things to do, it's best to get your nap out of the way first.
-- Have You Seen This? --
Re: multi stacking
[Re: pgp]
#231579 04/27/1108:44 AM04/27/1108:44 AM
There were plenty of double stacks going on at SF.
There are specialty trailers made for double stacking. You could build your own - but would probably spend more and not achieve results on par with the solutions already out there.
This weekend JC and I double stacked his C2 ontop of my N20. He had some custom fiberglass brackets that fit over my crossbeams that slso mated to trailer cradles. Strap them down and the rig was solid.
-Top boat is flipped upside down and sits on a the middle boat beam to beam, also facing backwards. I make a simple frame out of 2x4's then pad the beams with some thin neoprene type material.
So far I've piled on about 4k miles with a triple stack like that and have had zero issues.
So far I've piled on about 4k miles with a triple stack like that and have had zero issues.
Did you beef up the axle?
Nope, just started with a proper trailer. I don't remember the weight ratings, but its probably a 5000# GVW trailer. Tandem axle, 20' deck, plus the V portion. I paid $1500 for it, and really regret not doing something like this sooner. It pulls nicely, and can easily handle the weight of three boats.
and with just a single F16:
Down side is it takes a solid vehicle to handle the windage. I could have made the rack shorter, but being that I dumped almost $2k on the rack and back mast support, and F16/18's aren't getting any smaller, I wanted to leave some room for growth so to speak. While it could be done with a 1/2 ton, I wouldn't want to tow it with one. Even with a hopped on diesel I'm getting at best 12-1/2mpg, and the bit better brakes and suspension is a nice piece of mind as well.
If you are only supporting one boat on the rack there is more than enough strength. Thinner wall but larger diameter. For my tornado trailer(break down with hull above sail box on supports with cross sections) I used an prindle 16 mast for supports and a smaller oval mono section for the cross sections. And no problem at all for mast supports.
Re: multi stacking
[Re: orphan]
#231645 04/28/1102:31 PM04/28/1102:31 PM
Why not just use four pieces of high density foam? The bottom boat is tied to the trailer, the top boat has straps that run lengthwise around the fore and aft beams to hold the boat together. This worked just fine and no damage from Austin, TX to Key Largo, FL and back (about 3,200 miles)....
Bo Kersey Corsair 31-1D 276
Re: multi stacking
[Re: BoK]
#231646 04/28/1102:40 PM04/28/1102:40 PM
Presumably this only works with two boats that are sufficiently similar for the beams to line up so there is no chance of fore-aft movement of the top boat.
Presumably this only works with two boats that are sufficiently similar for the beams to line up so there is no chance of fore-aft movement of the top boat.
I've done this with a Nacra 20 and Hobie Tiger where the spacing between the beams is different. We lined up the front beams and them made a spacer out of some 2 x 4s and hull cradles for the back. This worked for a 2,500 miles of driving too / from the Tybee 500 one year.
For one-off events, we have a ghetto version that works pretty well...
Once stacked a Hobie 16 on top of a Hobie 20, using 2x4s wrapped in bath towels as spacers (placed directly on top of the H20 hulls), from eastern MA to Madcatter (300+ miles each way). Used ratchet straps, tied the 16 directly to the trailer (used extra towels to protect straps from chafing the H20), no issues at all.
Mike
Re: multi stacking
[Re: catman]
#231693 04/29/1110:29 AM04/29/1110:29 AM
To cut some cost find an old mast to make the rack. better aerodynamics and cheaper than buying aluminum.
Too thin walled.
I think this reads.....wish I would have thought of that.
Nope. Made a mast crutch from a H16 comp tip cut off. Fail. You just don't have anything to weld to. Strength of the tube alone would probably be fine so long as it isn't cantilevered out too far from the vertical supports.
I'm a big fan of over engineering, I don't need to be cobbling something together at 3:30 am on the side of the road in the middle of No and Where with a look of concern on my face as to whether or not I'm going to get sodomized by some toothless local. Or worse, lol, dumping $35k worth of catamarans off of the top rack onto the interstate. I went with 3"x3", 1/4" wall square tubing, gusset'd and braced where ever I thought prudent, and I don't expect to ever have a single issue. If I were to do it again I might do round tubing, but the labor costs go up having to saddle each piece into the next. I'd probably make the choice based on what gave the most surface are to weld to.