In light of the recent feedback on the failure of an N6.0 mast, I thought I'd ask a question about another component. The end caps on my bridle foil are no longer seated as they were when new. They show the evidence of the forces applied. Does anyone have experience with failure at the foil? If so, what should I be looking for to warn of imminent doom?

Kevin, The toggle fittings on the bridle foil are a point of failure and should be checked. This website has more info: http://www.rclandsailing.com/licsa/LICSA98bowfoilproject.htm

Kevin,

Those things fail where the steel rod goes across and then comes to a T. The shackle fitting is pushed outward due to the size of the weld (on some foils). A crack develops in the fitting and the result is an inverted taco for a foil, followed by the mast crashing down.

I have heard of the rod failing at the weld too. But I have never seen that one.

Here is a link to some pics:

http://darientel.net/~surfsail/xbar8.html

This happened to mine but I caught it before it cracked all the way through.

Hope this helps.....

AJ
Nacra 6.0 Express

I'll have to take a close look at the toggle ends. On my boat, however, the signs of stress are at the black end caps on the foil. The pull from the rods has bent the caps upward (probably best explained by a photo - I'll see if I can get one).

I need to check to be 100% sure but I'm almost certain those caps don't carry any load at all. The metal tang, through which the pelican striker is attached to, continues through the end cap/foil and also forms the tang to which the bridle wire is attached.

Jake,

Figured I'd better post a pic before continuing. Here's what's happening:



See how the end cap is rotating upward.

Kevin,

Ours was like that when we bought the boat. I don't think it is any big deal. You may want to check and see if the rivet on the bottom of the foil in that picture is working loose. I will be checking the T, the weld, and the straps as others have mentioned. Thank you for making this post

Kevin et all,
If you look at the picture, all of the weakest points of the foil are visible. The first problem is the pin that holds the u shaped strap bends because the fork is spread too wide. This causes the fork to spread more.
Eventually the pin bends enough that the fork sheers off the ring ding and the foil breaks. This wrecked one of my foils. I have been close to wrecking another. Replacing the pins every season or when ever they start to bend can prevent this. Alternatively you can use a bolt. Make sure the neck of the bold covers the fork. The threaded part is not strong enough for the load
The second trouble spot is the slotted fork itself. Twice I have broken the strap where it goes around the T weld. Once it destroyed the foil, once it was salvageable later.
Performance catamarans finally came up with a stronger strap that can be retrofitted to the boat. I think the dealers have them.

The other spot is the T weld I have observed at least 1 of these break. I never broke one myself.

Good Luck

My foil looks exactly like this. I'll be checking the rivets & everything else this "winter".

Hi,

This is what I did for both my 5.5SL's. Some other guys in New England adopted this method for their 6.0's (I think)

Essentially, I replaced the welded toggle to a more common toggle bolt. You need to buy a new stainless steel rod as the old one will not be long enough, and thread the ends for the bronze toggle (just as strong as the stainless but won't ever crack from stress corrosion which is a stainless steel phenomenon - doesn't happen to bronze) A new rod is only $10 or so from McMaster.com. and West Marine sells the toggles (you'll throw away the "bolt" part since you'll be using the rod as the "bolt"). I also removed the caps, glued them back in, and added an extra rivet on the underside.

See photo attached!

You are probably fine for a good while as the variations of brass (there are MANY) and the stainless steels are relatively close together on a galvanic corrosion scale. However, I would still unthread the brass toggle from time to time to inspect the threads - especially if you sail frequently in the ocean because corrosion will take place where the stainless and brass are in contact. For reference, stainless and aluminum are practically on opposite ends of the scale (the farther apart metals are on this scale, more corrosion will result from their mechanical contact).

Bronze NOT brass. Brass and the sea are a big no-no.

I forgot to mention that you should use loctite or equiv on the threads to prevent corrosion. These fittings (Toggle jaws, old style) (http://www.csjohnson.com/pages/online_catalog/marine/marine_catalog_page_08.html) with bronze nuts and stainless threads have been used for years with no problems.

my bad ... apologies. Bronze, brass, aluminum, tin....my reading apprehension appears to be decreasing along with my eyesite.

I did notice (and checked it twice this time!) that the link you provided notes in top right "Not for lifting, hanging or other high load applications." Granted, "High Load" is a non-descript term and these will probably suffice in this application, but none of the connectors give an indication of load handling capability and that would concern me somewhat.

These guys (bosun) have a quick attach fitting that might be worth looking at too. Their printed catalog has much more detail but they have wire rod "quick Attach" Toggle Terminals to fit wire or solid rod rigging from 1/8" to 3/8". They claim that they don't list the working loads because these will be stronger than the rod (or wire) you attach them too and will not be the weakest link...another thought.



Bosun Supply Quick Attach Fittings

Quick Fitting Info

OOPS! I gave you guys the wrong page!

This is the correct one:
http://www.csjohnson.com/pages/online_catalog/marine/marine_catalog_page_22.html
These are made for sailboat rigging and are at least as strong as the wire or pin which connect them to the boat. I believe part number 17-205 is the one that fits the 5.5/6.0 bridle foil, and already has a 1/4-28 thread in the bronze nut. (But I would call first) The bridle rod is also 1/4" so it works out.

Obviously, I too have a degrading eyesight/comprehension problem...

Steve

Add me to the failure list.........I have broken the foil on my 6.0. The strap on the end of the foil that holds the rod broke during a distance race half way into it when we went from a spinnaker run to an upwind leg. (Juana's Goodtime Regatta - 35 mile distance race) Sounded like a gun going off. As soon as the strap broke, the foil cracked in the middle under the striker. We jibed immediately, then ran the spinnaker halyard out to the bridle tang to keep the mast up, and headed downwind to Key Sailing. A new foil and $300 and we were back on the water.

Nice picture, thanks.
What is the small black (plastic?) part inside the toggle strap?

Hi,
Very observant of you...
That's a cable tie being used to "secure" the round clevis ring. To make a long story short: In a pitch-pole during one leg of the 150 mile Down-the-Bay regatta, my co-skipper, Dr. Ron Jones, had some part of his clothing rip that little ring right off as he shot past it - almost lost the foil. Though I taped all the rings around the boat, I had forgotten those two. The cable tie also holds the ring up to prevent that little white galvanic corrosion where the stainless ring just touches the aluminum - a nice solution for us anal-retentive / obsessive-compulsive types...

Steve