I'd like to put deck ports (for inspection and small storage) on the decks of my 6.0...likely a few inches behind the front crossbar. Any issues???

Thx in advance...

JL

If you don't absolutely need ports, don't put them in. This is a last resort to make repairs or access the inside of the hull. The strength of the material (deck) that you remove is never the same when you replace it with a port. If you have to put a port on the deck, you're picking the better location behind the front crossbar. The deck in front of the beam can be put into compression when the hull flexes, and especially closer to the crossbeam.

I do have extra ports on my 6.0 if you want I can make some pictures next week.

Is the NACRA 6.0 deck foam sandwich like the Hobies? If so, you might find this illustrated guide to deck port installation useful. It's several years old, but I guess the method hasn't changed.
Installing Deck Ports
http://www.thebeachcats.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=29

Thanks Rob...yeah I'd like to see the pix. Although as was mentioned in another response, I am concerned about weakening the hulls. I guess I am wondering if anyone has any ideas or experience in reinforcing the area around where you would install the ports to compensate for having cut the holes in the first place. I have heard that if you just do a "normal" installation, that if you step (or sit) on the deck ports, that you can damage or even step right through the deck....

The big 8" ports, I think they are standard on the H20, have a reputation for breaking when put under direct pressure from someones foot. The more common 4" ports don't have the same kind of problem, however, you can knock the threads out of whack with pressure and they can be a reall Bitc* to open if you sat on 'em.

West Marine carries a different brand of 4" ports that have much more sturdy threads. However, they aren't compatable with the more common lids.

Joe,

I have put deck ports in both of the 6.0s I have owned. Properly installed they are as strong or stronger than the deck around them, will add to the overall strength and life of the boat by improving air circulation while the boat is stored, make great storage places for distance racing, and give you access to the board trunks , shroud anchors, and front beam area should you need to make any repairs.

I would recommend the Beckson 6 inch portals. I liked the ones with the textured non-skid surfaces.

west marine part number 106260 or 106254 depending on whether you like white or black.

I would place them exactly half way between the daggerboards and the front beam.

At a high level the installation process is:

1.) mark your decks
2.) cut your holes
3.) test the fit of the portal (always using the ring with the lid in place in it, otherwise the ring can be out of round)
4.) mix up some epoxy resin
5.) "paint" the foam and glass around the hole with resin, allowing it to soak into the foam core around the hole.
6.) add either micro-balloons or hardware filler to the epoxy until it is peanut-buttery consistency.
7.)glue the portals in. (make sure that the lids are in the rings when you do this or as I said previously you can end up with rings out of round, then you are in trouble. Make sure you do not glue the lids into the rings.)
8.) fillet the area around the rings using the thickened epoxy. (do not attempt to screw the rings down. The screws are not necessary and will only tend to bend the rings out of plane)

Once the epoxy hardens you are good to go. I additionally liked epoxying a small eyestrap to the inside of the hull somewhere near the portal. The Beckson portals have a fitting in the lid for a screw-eye. put a stainless steel screw-eye in the portal lid, and then tie a piece of light line from the screw eye to the eye-strap. Then, when you remove a lid on the water, you don't have to worry about losing it.

When storing your boat, leave the portal lids off and cover the portal with something that will let air circulate, yet keep rain and vermin out. Your fiberglass hulls will appreciate the extra air circulation.

someone posted a while back about screwing a dowel to the center of a frizbee and placing it in the port so that the frizbee is slightly elevated. This will let air flow but keep the rain out. I thought that was a great idea.

Yup, I remember that post too. A darn good idea if you ask me.

I installed them on my H17, and I don't know how the area of deck is shaped on your NACRA, but I used ones fron Murrys with a contoured ring for curved surfaces. It worked great. I would reccomend using silicone to isntall them... is seals good and makes a good gasket, but you can get the rings off and the silicone off if you need to change them. I did this on my P16 when one cracked. Other sealants can be more perminate and make taking them apart later a real pain. Also. when you install them, only run the screws part way and let the sealant set up. Then tighten the screws later so the sealant acts like a compressed gasket. I used small SS machine bolts with backing washers and nylon locknuts not just sheet metal screws.

Epoxy sticks to about everything except plastic. I'd hate to see the whole ring and cover pop out. ALso, if not tied into the hull, the hull is defnitely weakened by the hole, so putting it ahead of the front crossbeam can't help things. (check out how easily you can pop out the old epoxy from your mixing cup, after it has set.)

Gougeon West System Epoxy definetly sticks adequately to the Beckson portal rings in this application. The portal with the lid in it is very strong. Without the lid of course the portal is not very strong. Overall portals improve the boat and will add to the life and strength of the hull.

I would strongly recommend against silicon or any soft adhesives. Only something like epoxy will put the portal in in a manner that is not detrimental to the strength of the boat.

I have added portals in this fashion to 2 Nacra 6.0s and 1 Hobie 16. On the Hobie 16 I did it as part of a project to epoxy the whole boat together. As part of the project I was weighing the boat by component. Each Hobie 16 hull lost approx. 5 lbs in the first 24 hours of having the hull openned up to good air circulation. And each hull lost a total of between 8 and 9 lbs over a weeks time. The negative effect of the moisture in the hull, saturating the fiberglass, will outweigh any disadvantages of a portal, preferably two per hull (The 6.0 is lucky to already have one by the rear beam). The effect is only increased if you live in a northern clime and your boat is exposed to freezing and thawing.

Thanks Jamie....I think you have convinced me...thanks for the great directions as well!!

Jamie,
Here's a photo of inspection holes in your old H16. By the way, the boat is now living on Folly Beach, NC.
Jack

Folly Beach is in South Carolina is it not (are there two)? (great place to sail from too - if you can get your boat to the beach).

Jake, You are right about the Viking Marine brand of ports breaking out the threads.
They are made of a brittle plastic. Direct pressure can break even the small ones out.
I have a collection of black and white, 4" & 5" lids.

I believe that West Marine and Boater's World, carry the Beckson brand of ports.
They are made of a tougher, more flexible type of plastic.
That is the brand which comes stock on Hobie Tigers.

I would never trust a Viking port to glue it in, but I would trust the Beckson ports.

Also keep in mind that most epoxies have a hard time with UV exposure - they turn yellow/hazy and eventually get brittle. You will need to put a coat of paint on the epoxy or maybe some sealant to help block the sun if you use epoxy to fill any the difference in curvature.

Secondly, if you coat the plastic with some sort of a mold release, you will be able to remove the plastic port once the epoxy has cured. PVA mold release would work well - but that's an extra expense. You can also use wax paper, any kind of polypropoline plastic (like cheap drop sheets), or even grease as a barrier between the port and the epoxy. I haven't tried this but I believe if you put a skim coat of silicon sealant on the plastic, it will also provide a good barrier. This way you get a good solid mount but can still remove the port easily should it ever be damaged or deteriorate.

If you use epoxy or 3M 5200 to glue the plate to the deck, you don't need the screws. Elimenating the screws, elminates some weight and a leak path.

Do you need to worry about things bumping around inside the hulls? Is this bad? What about the cat bags? Anyone use these things?

Sure - I use catbags all the time (fat bags). I permenanly leave a tube or two of sunblock in them and it's a great place to store several bottles of water (except in my case, my only ports are at the stern - not usually where I want more weight). The truck key goes in there too if I'm out day sailing. I've never heard them bang around.