Had the same issues with my 1990 jeep and the generator on the old RV. After spending almost $1000 in repairs on the gen I ran only non-ethanol and stabilizer......never had another problem. Same for the jeep, have not had any issue since keeping away from the ethanol.

Was also told that it is not good for my 05 durango.

Interesting..... My Z32 is one of the 2 cars here that loves ethonal

Mine runs fine on it, it's the fuel system that hates it...

1994 300 ZX TT, perhaps? Maybe black 2 seater? man, I loved that car. added bigger turbos, stronger waste gate springs, camshafts, tapered valves, 50 shot nitrous and a roll cage.

To be young, stupid, and spend all your money on go-fasts...

93' 300zx TT, blue with black leather, and all the go-fast goodies except nitrous...

yeah we sort of have a bit of an addiction to them here....







Mine.....
extensively modded








Oldest sons





The Wifes





the trio
Stephens red zed hadn't been into the shed at that stage




our for a play

seriously jealous. But now I know why they're so hard to find (at least the un-mod ones).

Would have liked that anniversary edition ('97 I think?) Supra TT coupe as well.. but way out of my price range at the time.

I applaud you both for (1) the budget to mod/race those things and still have money for sailing, and (2) spouse/family that approves of such road monsters.

the only thing i DIDN'T like on the 300 TT was that HICAS setup . Got it tuned right but the OBDC kept throwing codes at me so I had to override it eventually. Must have had something to do with the torque loading in full boost, or the replacement differential I had on there after we destroyed the first one dyno testing.

I've had a hard on for a Supra since I was in high school. Every time I shop for one, they're more money than the last time I looked. The untouched low miles ones are about extinct at this point.

I think they went to ridged tubing back then, but if not check the rubber lines and see if the used 30R9 from the regulator to the fuel rails. If not, not a problem, they probably used the 30R7... Just keep an eye on it them as the alcohol can cause premature deterioration.

Those are some nice Z's. I kept all my mods under the skin. I wanted a stock look.

I'll check the fuel lines and see what was done. The shop that works on my car specializes in Z32's so I'm pretty sure it was done right when it was rebuilt.

If you have an older vehicle/engine, the fuel system was built with rubber and plastic parts designed to be resistant to gasoline only. It may or may not be resistant to ethanol by luck. Newer engines fuel systems are usually resistant to ethanol, especially the "rubber" parts. But, there have been some circumstances where cheap plastic carburetors have swelled over time from ethanol and need to be replaced.

Absolutely fresh ethanol-gasoline mixes in clean engines will run fine, without problems. If you use it quickly and constantly, you will not have problems... But, there are a lot of "ifs and buts".

Ethanol absorbs water, lots of it. It will actually remove small amounts of water from a wet fuel system, if it is fresh. But if you do so, use the fuel up quick!

Here are the problems: Ethanol is constantly absorbing water. If there is water in the bulk tanks at the gas station, it will absorb it. If there is high humidity in the air, it will absorb it, either at the gas station or in your own gas tanks. Over time it will keep absorbing water, until the ethanol-gas mixture becomes saturated and can absorb no more. Now, if it is saturated, and conditions change (such as temperature, evaporation, additives, etc.), water may actually come out of solution and sink to the bottom of your tank, carburetor bowl, or fuel line. Seperated water can cause all kinds of unwanted chemistry inside your fuel system.
A common problem for 2-cycle engine owners' is water in the fuel. If you buy or keep old ethanol-gas mixtures with significant water dissolved in it, you cannot see the water,YET! Now, you add your 2-cycle oil to your gas, and you have changed the chemisty.--Like a magic trick, water drops out and settles to the bottom of your tank. That water will rust the bottom of a metal tank. Since that dirty water is on the bottom, when you hook up your outboard motor to the tank, that is the first liquid into your carburetor. Now your motor won't start. So you put the motor aside in the garage for awhile,--now you will need a carb re-build, if not a whole new carburetor.

When it comes to 2-cycle engines, BUY PURE GAS ONLY!