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Took the H14 out Saturday... #32035
04/04/04 03:01 PM
04/04/04 03:01 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Sycho15 Offline OP
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Sycho15  Offline OP
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Bradenton, FL
It was blowing pretty well, if a bit chill, this weekend so I took the H14 out for the first time. Even with the mast adjusted as far forwards as the shroud adjusters would allow, it was raked aft so much that attempting to go upwind resulted in going into irons and staying there. The crew swam the bow of the boat downwind and climbed aboard, then we made our way back to shore.

I had one extra shroud adjuster in my truck, so we grabbed that and my spare-parts bottle. I used the jib halyard to hold the mast up in front while I removed the furling drum and forestay adjuster. Now I had two adjusters to use for lengthening the side-stays. I flipped them "up-side-down" and slide them over the current adjuster, so three holes lined up. I pinned the first and third holes on both sides and got enough slack to go work on the forestay.
I took to bridle wires and forestay and tied them tight together with some halyard line, two wraps through each eye before tieing them off. Then I took in the slack on the side-stays, and was able to move the top adjuster down to the second-lowest hole of the bottom adjuster (I'll take pictures later if this isn't clear enough). With the mast now raked considerably further forwards, we took the boat for another spin and it did considerably better. I can remove the swivel from the upper end of the forestay to rake the mast even further forwards if I have to, later.

My biggest problem at the moment are the rudders. They won't go all the way down and lock because the came (plastic cams) as frozen in the down position. I tried looping a rope around them and pulling them up, to no avail. Does anyone know of another method?
The other problem was the sail... I need to re-rivet all the batten-pockets, and buy some new battens that will fit better.


G-Cat 5.7M #583 (sail # currently 100) in Bradenton, FL Hobie 14T
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Re: Took the H14 out Saturday... [Re: Sycho15] #32036
04/04/04 05:55 PM
04/04/04 05:55 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
South Australia
Darryl_Barrett Offline
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Darryl_Barrett  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
South Australia
Post a picture, it is very hard to picture all the adjustments that you have made, actually its hard to picture the cat at all from the descriptions (like they say one picture say's more than a thousand words)
Darryl

Re: Took the H14 out Saturday... [Re: Sycho15] #32037
04/04/04 09:49 PM
04/04/04 09:49 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,558
Key Largo, FL & Put-in-Bay, OH...
Mary Offline
Carpal Tunnel
Mary  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,558
Key Largo, FL & Put-in-Bay, OH...
I have had endless problems with rudder cams (probably because I don't know how to adjust the tension properly). But I always check the cams before I leave the beach. If one is stuck in the down position, I put a screwdriver under it and pry it up.

Also, I am told it is important to keep the cams lubricated.

Re: Took the H14 out Saturday... [Re: Mary] #32038
04/05/04 07:37 AM
04/05/04 07:37 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 461
Sydney Australia
Berny Offline
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Berny  Offline
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Sydney Australia
If you guys ever see a 4.3 Maricat for sale over there, grab it. They are as quick as a Hobie but a way nicer boat to work on and sail.
Bern

Attached Files
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Re: Took the H14 out Saturday... [Re: Sycho15] #32039
04/05/04 08:55 AM
04/05/04 08:55 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 284
Norfolk, VA
Dan Berger Offline
enthusiast
Dan Berger  Offline
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 284
Norfolk, VA
On the cams, you really do need to lubricate them with something. You can use WD40 to loosen them, but I wouldn't use is permanently. It breaks down in salt water, so you might want to go with silicone instead. If you pull up on the cams with a rope, you will probably just rip the top part off. Then, you are in worse shape than before. Squirt the heck out of it with lubricant, then try to come up under the cam with a flat head screw driver. You should be able to get it between the cam and the plunger ball that locks it. You need to be firm, but gentle or you will mar the underside of the cam and it won't work as smoothly.

There are tools made specifically for that application, but it is a matter of finding one.

I can bring a bunch of battens with me to Hartwell and I can also do the rivets as well as batten pocket protectors. Bring that mast with the broken comptip track and we can work something out!


Dan Berger
Norfolk, VA
A Cat USA139
Supercat 15
Re: rudder cams [Re: Dan Berger] #32040
04/05/04 12:05 PM
04/05/04 12:05 PM
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 390
samevans Offline
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samevans  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 390
I agree that you need a lot of lubricant and silicone works much better than WD 40.

I am notorious about leaving the shore without checking my cams,
so I have a lot of experience "popping" them on the water.
There is a small gap between the cam and the casting, on the side,
that a flat blade can slip through and push down on the piston.
The screwdriver blade on a Leatherman works great.

I have some good pieces of comp-tip track I can bring.

See Ya,
Sam

Re: rudder cams [Re: samevans] #32041
04/05/04 06:26 PM
04/05/04 06:26 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
South Australia
Darryl_Barrett Offline
old hand
Darryl_Barrett  Offline
old hand

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,012
South Australia
Marine spray on teflon works for weeks even months, but you have to get every thing working first, and it doesn't attract "grit"

Re: rudder cams [Re: Darryl_Barrett] #32042
04/05/04 07:01 PM
04/05/04 07:01 PM
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 744
Bob_Curry Offline
old hand
Bob_Curry  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 744
Hmmmmm.....

I like to use vaseline for the waterproof lubing applications!

Bob


"The election is over, the talking is done, Your party lost, my party won. So let us be friends, let arguments pass, I’ll hug my elephant, you kiss you’re a $$.”
Liberalism = A brain eating amoeba & a failed political ideology of the 20th century!
Re: rudder cams [Re: Bob_Curry] #32043
04/05/04 08:59 PM
04/05/04 08:59 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 198
D
davidtilley Offline
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davidtilley  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 198
I got into the habit of carrying a little vaseline in a tiny screw top for lip balm. So I now have a lube and lip balm to stop my lips chapping. If you keep this on the cam, the operation is predictable and you can actually set your rudder pop up. On my old 16 I made aluminum cams jigsawed out of alluminium plate. I tapped a socket head setscrew through the "Gullet" so that it bore on the steel pin that runs though the casting integral to the tiller arm. This way you can adjust rake on the old style rudder set up. I dont guess it is class legal...You are then also able to tweak the radius on the cam where the detent ball pops out, with a file. (Stick two setscrews in each hole - one to set, one to lock the screws against one another)

Re: rudder cams [Re: davidtilley] #32044
04/05/04 10:41 PM
04/05/04 10:41 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Sycho15 Offline OP
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Sycho15  Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
If these pictures don't work, try going to My F14 album

The Hobie 14 Turbo, after removing the jib furling drum, forestay shroud adjuster, and jib system. I left the jib halyard on and tied either end of it to each bow to hold the mast up while working on the forestay.
[Linked Image]

The double shroud-adjusters. The second adjuster fits up-side-down and over-top of the original, and is pinned in the bottom and top-most holes. The shrouds attach to what would normally be the "bottom" of the adjuster.
[Linked Image]

The forestay bridle, tied together with halyard line. I couldn't get any shackle to fit inside the bridle wires, as they are intened to fit snugly on the tangs of the furling drum.
[Linked Image]

My 1/4x3" SS eyebolt goes through the deck-lip, then through a 1/2" diameter aluminum rod that is maybe 6" long (I didn't measure how long the rod is, but made each side equal length), and is secured with a bolt. More halyard line is run through it and a shackle which connects the shroud adjusters to the trampoline frame.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


G-Cat 5.7M #583 (sail # currently 100) in Bradenton, FL Hobie 14T
Re: rudder cams [Re: Sycho15] #32045
04/06/04 08:07 AM
04/06/04 08:07 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Sycho15 Offline OP
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Sycho15  Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Well, obviously that didn't work...
I uploaded the pictures to my domain and provided links below. The pictures are in the same order as listed above.
Fair warning, these pics are HUGE. I don't have an image editing program on this computer yet.

Hobie 14 T
Double shroud-adjuster
Forestay bridle
Sidestay "system"
Close-up of the 1/4 x 3" eyebolt through deck-lip


G-Cat 5.7M #583 (sail # currently 100) in Bradenton, FL Hobie 14T
Re: rudder cams [Re: Sycho15] #32046
04/06/04 05:21 PM
04/06/04 05:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 461
Sydney Australia
Berny Offline
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Berny  Offline
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Sydney Australia
Brian, I had no problem seeing your pics on the link you provided in your first post. Incidentally, that site has an image enhancing function available for adjusting your photos.

Just a couple of observations on your mod's. The side stay extensions look ok though I'd be using a smaller diameter lashing with more turns which would be stronger and neater. What are the other ropes beside the stays? Trapeze? where are your hook rings?

I don't think you need three forestays. Usually if you intend rigging with a jib on a single stay you can dispense with the outer stays although again your lashing between the forestay and bridle wires is too big in diameter with insufficient turns and the tie-off knots don't look secure. You could put a bow shackle there in place of the lashing. It'd be stronger and safer.

Good luck with the boat.

Bern

Re: rudder cams [Re: Berny] #32047
04/06/04 08:21 PM
04/06/04 08:21 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Sycho15 Offline OP
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Sycho15  Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 591
Bradenton, FL
Quote

Just a couple of observations on your mod's. The side stay extensions look ok though I'd be using a smaller diameter lashing with more turns which would be stronger and neater.


They're 3/16th I believe, and are just what I had laying around in my G-Cats hulls for random tie-down purposes.

Quote
What are the other ropes beside the stays? Trapeze? where are your hook rings?


Yes, those are for the trapeze system. If you enlage the H14T picture you should be able to make out the "Can't Miss" rings. Now that the extra side-stay support is on, I can trapeze out on the beach without the trampoline frame bending.

Quote
I don't think you need three forestays.


Those 'extra stays' are either end of the Jib halyard, tied to the bow eyes to hold the mast up while I was messing with the forestay/bridle. The halyard pulley is just tied to the mast tang as well, so none of it really provides support while sailing.

Quote
Usually if you intend rigging with a jib on a single stay you can dispense with the outer stays although again your lashing between the forestay and bridle wires is to big in diameter with insufficient turns and the tie-off knots don't look secure. You could put a 'D' shackle there in place of the lashing. It'd be stronger and safer.


Again, it's just some 3/16ths I've had lying about. I couldn't use any shackles or D-rings because the ends of the bridle wires are too narrow to accept such things. If you notice, I can't even have two pieces of rope side-by-side through those two fittings- the rope itself barely fit at all.

Quote
Good luck with the boat.
Bern


Thanks, it was neat to go out in strong winds and not feel overpowered or worry about capsizing. I normally solo an 18' G-Cat, and at 150lbs it can get hectic.


G-Cat 5.7M #583 (sail # currently 100) in Bradenton, FL Hobie 14T

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