Ok so i've acquired most of what i need to rig this n5.2. Couple questions left:

1. Since i sailed h16s before, i'm used to haveing the jib halyard attached to the forestay. It doesn't look to be the case on this boat. So do you attach the jib to the small tang below where the rest of the rigging attaches?

2. How do you attach the bridles and the forestay? The way it came, the two bridles are attached to a chainplate but there is something hanging below it with a quick release pin. hmmmmm....

3. Which ring do i use to attach the main to the halyard? It's a '80.

4. Where to i run skipper bungi for the trap line? I don't have a grommet in the tramp nor is there any rigging on the deck.

5. How long should the jib rope be?

6. The mast ball looks quit old and it seems you can't buy them anymore and have to upgrade to the new style. I can make an imprint with my thumb nail in the ball, does that mean its no good?

7. when you talk about tensioning the rig, exactly how tight should it be? Should it be able to flop back and fourth or should it be tight enough to let the mast rotate back and fourth?

so many questions.....sorry!!! Thanks again for all your help!

Reid Rechel

http://www.performancecat.com/manuals/nacra.pdf

Manual for your 5.2.

1. Yes

2. Sounds like the chainplate is the style for tensioning the forestay.

3. Is your setup a ring lock or a wire lock for the main? See the manual for further detail. My 5.2 used the wire lock. There is a small hook ball on the halyard wire it catches on a "fork" that is mounted on the front of the mast.

4. Most have to retro fit for double trap on 5.2. I had gromlets put in just aft of the dagger on each side of the tramp. Used an eyelet on each hull to run the bungie to each gromlet and under the tramp. Mounting the captain's trap through the stern beam does not work because it interferes with the main.

5. Do not remember.

6. Murrays or Sailing Shop Pro

7. Slop in the rig when idle is a waste. Not so tight that will not rotate.


Good Luck

here is what i got for a jib setup. Anybody know what the piece hanging below is for? Also, how do you attach an eye strap to the hull? Rivets or self taping screws i guess is the question.

Reid Rechel

The item hanging below should be pointing up. It is your forestay adjuster. The forestay is pinned into it. Also, there is a wind vane mount bolted onto it. The wind vane hangs below the rigging.

Fairleads/eyestraps should be riveted into the top of the hull for a secure mount.

Kris
Nacra 6.0NA

First off - it's way to cold and icy to be out working on the boat where you are!

Yes, the thing hanging down is what the forestay SHOULD be connected to. The multiple holes, in combination with the multiple holes on the sidestay adjusters, allow you to adjust the three cables suspending your mast controling both rake (leaning forward or backward) and the rig tension. The triangular piece that you have attached the brass clip to is where the jib sail clew is pinned to after it has been fully hoisted.

The jib halyard should be a wire leader (may have been replaced with rope) that goes around a pulley at the top of the forestay. It should change over to rope at one end where it gets cleated to a v-jam cleat on the port side of the mast - there's 3:1 purchase available but I won't confuse things with that just yet. To install the jib on the boat, clip the wire end of the jib halyard to the head of the jib, engage and start the jib zipper with the forestay wire in the middle, and hoist while at the same time zipping the zipper around forestay. Once the jib is fully hoisted and zipped around the forestay, pin the clew into the triangle shapped bracket. Then tighten the jib luff by pulling down on the halyard at the mast base. Tighten the luff for upwind and loosen it for downwind.

Okay now i get the triangular thing hanging down. What were you saying, Jake, about the 3:1 purchase. I have a micro block attached to the end of the wire halyard. Attached is my mast setup. I guess i'm not sure what the two v-jams, cheek, and eyestrap are for. I haven't really figured out a downhaul or the 3:1 for the jib with the setup that i have. I was thinking for simplicity to add a double micro to the main, an eye strap on one side of the mast and a roller v-jam to the other for the downhual. Since i'm a broke college student, i can't afford pivoting blocks or anything fancy like that. What would you suggest for a jib halyard setup?

And now worries on the snow These pics are a few months old.

Reid Rechel
Duluth, Mn

Sections 59 & 60 of the aforementioned Nacra manual illustrates the answers to your questions.

OK - there should be a rope tail on the wire jib halyard. Mine had a long rope section for hoisting that I would disconnect once the jib was hoisted. I then had a shorter, four feet or so, section attached to the same wire loop that the small pulley is attached to. Using this rope, go through the small eyestrap, back up through the pulley on the halyard, and down through the v-jam cleat on the left side of the mast. This is your 3:1 on the jib halyard. You can do this with the long rope tail but it is a lot to thread through everything. For simplicity, you can run the jib halyard straight to the port v-jam cleat on the mast and forget about the purchase. I sailed this way for about a year before I knew any better.

I seem to remember that the v-jam cleat on the starboard side of the mast was used to secure the main halyard (secondary to the fork and ball on the front of the mast).