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Afternoon Folks:

I am in the process of bringing a 1980 Hobie 16 back to life. [color:"red"] [/color] Epoxeyed the frame togethor (that is another story entirely!) and re-rivoted all of the frame. Have already switched out all of the Seaway(?) parts for Harken. Have had the jib recut and added a self-furler. EVA Shure footed the siderails. Put on a mesh (one piece) bias tramp. Due to the fact that the boat had no trapeze wires; I am adding them and will need to get all boat trapeze parts as well.

Question #1) I am going to utilize the existing “Hawaiian righting system.” In the past I have always just grabbed the 1/2” line from under the boat to right it. Do any of you crawl up to the top hull to bring the righting line over the side of the top hull...rather than grabbing it from below the tramp? [color:"red"] [/color] If so, how do you do it (I am only 5’ 5” and 150 pounds soaking wet) and does it provide enough additional leverage to warrant the hassle of using the dolphin striker as a leg up? While we are on the righting system…the instructions say to drill out the front two pylons and attach a fairlead to each of them. Is it just me......or do the rest of you feel uncomfortable drilling holes in perfectly good pylons?

Question #2) What is the best trap return system? ( I used the standard Hobie recommended one for my Hobie 18’ and it never seemed to provide enough tension to keep you on the wire….or to slow you down when you take the inevitable trip around the bows). I have looked at Murray’s Hobie 16’ return system but; because it does not list the shock cord diameter so I am not sure how effective it would be. Assuming that Murray's shock cord is not particularly robust...what would an ideal shock cord diameter be (remember I will be SOLO on Lake Michigan much of the time)? Is there any good reason not to just buy all of the parts and make my own system with the proper diameter shock cord? Also, will I run into “too much stuff under the boat” problems using both the Murray’s tramp return system and the “Hawaiian righting system?”

Question #3 Where is the best place to terminate (number of inches fore or aft) both the crew trap return and the captain trap return? [color:"red"] [/color]

Question #4 What is the best way to terminate the trap return system on each hull? I have seen three different ways: one (which I think was on a Hobie 18’ (which probably has a larger hull lip) was to have a thru deck block to reduce friction on the shock cord; the other system I saw was someone just tied a small bullet lock through a hole in the hull lip; and the final system (which seemed to really wear out the shock cord prematurely) was simply to drill a hole through the hull lip and run the (unprotected shock cord) through the hull.

Questions #5 I recently saw the (new to me) keyhole trapeze ring. Have any of you used the keyhole trapeze system…and what are your thoughts on its advantages and disadvantages?

[color:"green"] [/color] Having already spent a ton of money re-fitting this cat; I don’t want to waste any time and/or money by doing the trapeze systems incorrectly. Also, I am sure that "Murphy" what can go wrong, will go wrong; in ways you never imagined) is eagerly awaiting my (SOLO) arrival on Lake Michigan!

Regards,

Poor Paul

P.S. I have also been looking at the Da Kine Footstrap kits. Have any of you tried the Da Kine Footstrap kits and what are your thoughts on their advantages and disadvantages …I am particularly interested if they are strong enough to use as “handles” when moving the boat on the beach.

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Hmmm...solo...150 pounds...54 degree water in Lake Michigan below 6 inches... old Hobie 16 with (old?) shrouds....
Please read the thread on Hobie Tiger righting and righting systems including PowerRighter. Then buy or build a system and learn how to use it in WARM WATER.
A Hawaiian style righting system won't help a 150 pound solo sailor enough. I ran mine outside the pylons to use it 99.9% of the time as a chicken line. New wires and Mast sealing are absolutely critical.

Otherwise you are referred to a thread on this forum several years ago about a similar H16 sailor who loved going solo offshore Cape Cod by himself. Sadly, he did not pay attention to anyone's posted suggestions about righting gear, wet suit, weather, time of day, etc. but was happy jumping waves without all that attention to detail.
After a few weeks, he qualified for a Darwin Award, and is no longer with us.

The Hobie 18 and Hobie 16 have fundamentally different shock cord arrangements for the trapeze.

The 16's shock cords run underneath the trampoline from one trapeze to the other, not under the deck lip like the 18.

No trapeze return system is designed to prevent you from taking a trip around the forestay in a pitchpole. That's what footstraps are for (besides breaking ankles). You have to hope there is enough stretch in the return system that nothing breaks .

Go to The Hobie 16 Worlds Photos and look at some of the beach pictures. You can clearly see what we were using on our trapeze set ups.

The righting lines we used were simple lengths of line, tied to the dolphin striker and stuffed into the pouch on the tramp. When you flip, you pull out the line, toss it over the upper hull, right the boat, then stuff it back in. Simple, cheap, and very effective.

Just a couple of hints.

Never attach port and starboard bungees of your trapeze system togther. If you do go around the forestay and break the port one, then your starboard side is broken too. Run them seperately, all of them. Make them extra long, using blocks for them to run thru under the tramp. The more bungee, the better it will take the "trip around".

Get the power righting pole, it may save your life.
Carry a sharp knife.
Never go out without someone "looking out for your return".

David Mosley
F18 on the way(I will be glad when its here!)

Would this setup be class legal?
Can you provide a diagram of somewhat to have a bigger and better picture. I love how this setup sounds. It would be a really nice setup.

The righting system and trap returns shouldn't conflict. Most of the H16 sailors I know have both. Matt's suggestion for a righting line is good, but the Hawaiian is great for crew as a chicken wire, or if you're lucky enough to get a Soloright, they are great for the solo sailor when righting the cat. To get the Hawaiian line while standing on the hull in the water, reach up and grab the closest end, then pull out all the slack, and while holding on with one hand, so the bungee doesn't take it up again, throw it over the top of the hull and grab it on the other side. Then you can pull it down and use it as you wish. Good luck!

I agree about securing the trap lines seperately; it just makes sense to do so. But, I don't agree that a solo sailor should be using any of the old technology (e.g. righting bag; hawaiian system; single line; shroud extenders, etc.) to try to right the boat. The righting pole is the way to do it quickly and easily without getting a rope burn on your back from the righting line. The biggest danger with the righting pole is not being aware and letting your boat turtle by falling into the sail and pushing the mast under the water. Seal everything that you can, and practice as soon as you install it.


Wyatt.