I want to try to find a way to solo right my 16. I weigh about 150 soaking wet. Since Gary is no longer making the solo right does anybody have up close pictues that show how his system worked so I can maybe fabricate one on my own?

Hi Ben

I do not have a Garry soloright (or pic's of one)... The soloright's where not available when I was looking for one. From what I read about the soloright it seems like it was based on an oar, which was reinforced with epoxy and glass or carbon fiber. The whole deal was suspended with lines from the two pylons of the hull, which was sticking out of the water. The edge of the oar was inserted into the lip under the deck of the lower hull of a capsized hobie 16.
My setup is a bit different... I used the top of a defective windsurfing mast and laminated a paddle shaped area, which finds support under the lip of the lower hull to the mast. The laminated area is shaped to match the inside profile of a hobie 16 hull. The length of the pole is equal with the length of the rear trampoline cross bar (where it is stored). With my 160 lb I do not have to climb further out than 2/3 of the length of the pole to right the hobie solo in situations when the wind speeds are very low (<5m/h). At wind speeds of 15 m/h or more I can right the hobie with just a normal rightening line.

Can you take some pics of your setup and post them? I'd really like to see it. Thanks!

Hmm, this took a while.... I always hoped that I would be able to find a chance to take a pic of the thing while it is in use... hmm may be some day.
Here is my "cheap" copy of a solo right. It uses the top part of a wind surfing mast, which I laminated a paddle shaped area to it. The paddle shaped area is basically a few layers of 195 g/m* fiberglass cloth laminated over the inside of a hobie 16 hull (the middle between the two pylons functioned in my case as a positive mold).
How it is used... Once capsized ... the forward edge of the paddle shaped area is inserted under the lip that is formed by the deck and hull of the lower hull (the one floating in the water). This is a very sturdy area of the boat - the laminate is about 8 mm thick and there is no risk of compressing the foam core. The two stretches of 1/4 rope (see pic) are each connected to one of the pylons of the hull pointing up. I selected a type of plastic shackles (hold >250 lb. each) that are easy to use and at the same time will not scratch the gel coat of the hulls.
Cost... about $20 for glass, epoxy, and 1/4 rope + the shackles of your choosing. The windsurfing mast was donated to me after the mast broke where the top and bottom were joint together.
Storage... Fits nicely under the tramp - the overall length of the thing is about the same as the width of the rear lacing. For the righting process a slightly shorter pole would do the job.
Weight... about 2.5 lb. The pole will float since the ends are epoxied shut.

Patrick

Since I do not know how to post multiple pics in one posting... here is the rest.
Side view of the paddle area... The curve of the paddle area is following the curve of the inside of a asymetric Hobie 16 hull.

more paddle (from the top)

Those are the shackles ... they are actually for some kind of blister or spinnaker application. They are light, non-abrasive, non-corrosive and not really required – just for the ease of use.

I just made this and havent tried it yet but here is a pic I also made an album in beach cats tecnical

thanks patrick and dune i want to make one too!

I'm wondering if you all would recommend a righting pole over the water bag for self-righting. I'm 165 lbs. if it matters.

Thanks,
Paulo