Hello H77,

No short cut here. For the non-skid it was scrub, scrub, scrub. I started with soap and water using a stiff nail-brush. Then (with the same brush) I used Simple Green and lots of scrubbing followed by a wipedown with RM 900. Then, a lot more scrubbing with a fine (soft) brass bristle brush about the size and appearance of a large toothbrush. The trick here was to scrub ALL the dirt out of every individual indentation of the non-skid...it was not easy. I was very concerned about this part of the job because I knew that the two-part poly (like any paint) would eventually chip if any contamination remained in the non-skid.

Once the non-skid *appeared* completely clean, I repeated the process three times more (with a *new* nailbrush) using RM 900 by BASF to remove all waxes and silicone. RM 900 is a professional dewaxer/degreaser/silicone remover and can be ordered via autobody suppliers. This product (or something like it) absolutely MUST be used extensively on the hulls. Removing waxes and worse, silicone, requires very specific solvents. So, use what the professionals use and be wary of anyone suggesting a compromise in this regard.

In total, both hull caps underwent about 3 to 4 hours of intense scrubbing each...definitely "grunt work" and critical.


Dave

Captain Dave,

thank you for the advice!

I hope you'll be around for the next few months, so that we may tap you for more information if need be.

What you have have described in your previous posts is certainly inspiring.

H77

H77,

Oh yea, I`ll still be around ...provided I don`t kill myself on my shiny new H16 - the one I barely know how to sail! But, at least the boat looks great - even upside down!


Dave

Dave,
Very impressive and detailed information about the repair. I am at the start of a similar project. Are there any special associated health hazards with this?

Ya, lots. But, nothing really out of the ordinary when one considers spray painting, sanding/grinding fiberglass and working with acids - in the the case of the trailer. Perhaps worth mentioning is the toxicity of epoxies. Most tend to think that the strong smelling polyester resins are a big hazard, and that the relatively odorless epoxies are no big deal. The truth is, epoxies are the ones to use caution with.


Dave

Dave, I am interested in the product you use to dye the tramp. I run a youth H16 camp with 5 boats that could use a brightening of the tramp (all colors).
Did the dye process make the tramp slippery? Does the dye come off in the sun or water? Has the dye transfered to clothing when rubbed with your elbows and knees? We are in Vancouver with ocean salt water. Do you have knowledge if this might work in our conditions.
Finally, what product do you recommend for the dye process? Does this have to be done by a pro with shop facilities?

Beautiful work Captain Dave! Thanks for the detailed information. I know I'll be consulting this thread for information about future projects. Make sure to post some pictures of that pretty boat on the water!

MarkJones,

I cannot attest to the dye in saltwater conditions. As for making the tramp slippery - no, not at all. It does abraid off with a lot of use but not very much. And it does this as a gradual wearing process - it does not chip or flake if applied properly. I suspect I notice this more because the underlying colour is yellow and I have dyed it black (touchups are easy and cure in 15 minutes). If you were to stay with the original tramp colour when dyeing I would say this may be little or no concern at all. I did notice a small amount of transfer to my bathing suit on one occassion. This was my first sail on the boat after the dye job and I had carelessly allowed a fair bit of sand to remain on the tramp when sailing. But, it was more like a fine dust and rinsed off the suit no problem - it may have been surface dust/overspray and nothing to do with the sand at all - I am not sure and it has not happened since.




Derek thanks for the compliment and good Idea on the photos. Here are a couple.


Dave

and another!

Dave,

I am restoring a Prindle 19 and running into trouble with the aluminum castings. These appear to have rusted onto the extrusions (at both ends of the mast, cross beams and boom). Any ideas on how to remove them?. I have tried toilet bowl cleaners and WD40 to no avail. Can I use heat? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ferminj,

You can use heat on the casts, but take your time. Any tapping/hammering you do should not be directly to the casts. Use hardwood between the hammer and the casts. The corrosion you are dealing with is tenacious, but with lots of tapping and patience you`ll eventually get it free. I was able to remove the casts from my boom without heat by thoroughly and firmly tapping all the way around the extrusion where it contacts the cast (many times around). After that, I tapped the cast out itself with a soft, but heavy, rubber mallet.

Also, if there is even a very tiny space left between the flange/lip of the cast and extrusion, you may be able to break the adhesion by trying to hammer the cast further on/into the extrusion. This is a good angle to get the job going but may not be an option.

Also keep in mind that I do not have any experience with Prindles, just Hobies and other boats.


Dave

Thanks Dave,

I was hoping for a 'miracle' product/method. I guess it's more of a patience and tenacity issue.
Loved what you did to your boat.

Fermin