Rob,

An H-16 uses a pin in a link that keeps the mast under control. I would think that Nacra had some similar device but I don't know much about them. There was a system on the market that allowed you to lengthen one shroud to more easily right an H-16. Part of that system included a cable that somehow kept the mast from coming out of its socket when the shroud was loose. There may be some way to adapt that concept to control your mast.

I can't take credit for the jib halyard idea for holding the mast up. I read that in an old Hobie Hotline years ago. I have been raising the mast solo for so long that I refuse help when offered because it is easier to stick to my routine.

I'm not familiar with the Apollo 16 but assume that it is a monohull.

Howard

Howard, I guess the point here is the need to simply and safely raise-lower the mast no matter the boat. I'm sure it would help open our world to more people.

The one thing about the H-16 when raising it by yourself is the trap wire shock cords. Since they are free to float around under the tramp they wind up at the back as you start to raise. So not only are you raising the mast weight you wind up having to deal with the shock cord trying to pull it back down. Plus they tend to get caught on stuff.

So before you start, get something to hold the shock cords around or in front of the shrouds.


Again, my drawing is not accurate. The base strut was more vertical. So when it was cranked up the whole thing was almost straight up.

Jake I'm not sure if that would work as easy. I think yours lifting closer to the base would have more load on it and the chock would have to slide a greater distance on the mast and pivot to maintain side control of the mast. Also the spreaders might get in the way as the chock slides up the mast. Looks like it will chuck pumpkins though.

I'm a big believer in towing the boat backwards. For those removing your rudders anyway then why not? It's just easier to raise the mast. I know some people are afraid they'll drop it on their car. With this system that problem is almost eliminated.

Jack, your set-up works good, however you have set up and haul that stuff around with you.

Rob, some Mystere's use line to hold the base in place. They have a pad eye on the front of the mast near the base and two more on the main beam on either side of the base. The line is tied to one eye on the beam,passed through the eye on the mast and then to the other eye on the beam. This holds the base in place.

The first couple times I used this set up I was nervous becaused I always had the pin on other boats but it does work good. I'll get you a PIC if you like.

But, instead of drilling 6 more holes in you boat, how much is a base for your mast?

The Apollo 16 is a monohull with a much lighter mast. I actually used the furling jib to hold the mast up. I would apply some downhaul to the jibwire and then connect the forestay. I think I could easily do it with the Nacra if it wasn't for the base not being locked down.

Jake,
Somehow, my simple brain is not grasping how the drawings in previous posts are going to lift the mast. It seems to me they are just going to pull the mast lower. How is the lift created? I see the directional arrow showing which way the line goes, but it seems to just tighten the mast down.

-Rob V.

Rob, give me a few minutes and I'll post a drawing of the mast being held up.

Here it is.

Mike,

I was referring only to the H-16 which is what the original poster, jrg, owns. The mast is not too heavy and can be lifted by one person pretty easily. The shock cords for the trapeze and the shrouds are not a problem. I used to put the tiller out one way and my paddle out the other to keep them from catching on the frame. I now tie a small line around the shock cords at the front of the tramp to take out some slack and just make sure that the lines and shrouds are not going to hook on the rear of the frame. It just isn't that difficult. I timed how long it took me to set up, ready to launch and I think it was 20 minutes from the time I parked the car.

Howard

With regard to the loading, besides on the cable and the stubby end of the lever, the load is no more than you would experience by lifting the mast yourself. 2" 1/8" wall square tubing would handle that with a huge margin of safety. The spreaders would be an issue and would have to be looked at closely but I think you'll find that with the lever positioned this way you will get much more height out of the system. The lower mast cradle will have to slide more on the mast - but what difference is a little more? You'll just have to put a roller on it anyway (a bow roller with side support). Just a thought.

Howard, I understand what your saying. This topic comes up alot and while most people I've seen don't use anything, if there was some simple and easy way I think more people would use it. Like beach wheels.

Forgive me for assuming but I'm guessing you've been doing this for a while. Compare that to someone 70 that has never done it but wants to. If raising the mast is the only thing that keeps that person on the beach then...

A young lady that sails off the causeway here raises her's with no help. Then there was this guy about 50 who could not get the mast past his head. It was ugly. I know he had a good time sailing but I havent'seen him again and that's a shame.

Jake, that doesn't look like it would work. The winch end seems so short compared to the mast end, and the mast end being so close to the base seems like it would be a huge amount of weight to push up. I think 2" tubing would bend pretty soon. Plus it you go past the point shown on your diagram the mast would start dropping again. I know my Hobie 18 mast would not go up this way. It seems like you would need more leverage on the pulling end and more thickness on the pushing end.

Actually, if the strap could go over a roller on the short end, then over an extension of the mast support in the center and then attach to the mast end, so that the strap is pulling up on the tube (like cranes) then I could see it being supported much better.

Jake, I think there would be a large difference on the mast base. Yours is trying to lift the mast off the base before the mast raises. The other system is more like lifting the mast from the top.

Hey, I just had a thought. How about drilling a small hole in the mast and dropping in a small purple pill???

The easiest way to handle this is to 1)loop bungees under the front cross beam and attach them to the diamond wire. Use heavy bungee (like the black rubber ones) and make sure they are tight. 2) Tie your trap lines to the front beam. The trap lines have the same pivot point as the mast so they will stay tight as the mast moves. This works like a charm on my Marstrom

Mike,

You're right, I have been doing it for a while but I am 71.

I think there is a mind set that people need to get over. It is not difficult to raise the mast. I saw one fellow disconnect his trailer from the car and try to somehow pull the mast up with a line to his car, driving forward. It was a near disaster. Too many gimmicks and devices just cloud the issue. The best thing is to learn to raise it solo while you have help around in case of problems like fouled shrouds or trap wires. Confidence will grow with practice.

Howard

Rob,

I have seen someone tie a line from the diamond wires or around the downhaul blocks on the mast down to the dolphin striker to keep the mast base in place and on the ball while raising and lowering the mast.

I agree with Howard. I know he and I discussed this topic earlier this year. Listen to him. An H16 mast doesn't weigh that much. I too have stepped one solo using the method he described.

On the heavier masts you may need some help, but not on the H16.

Ok, Ok, Ok....but if you look at it, the position of the mast brace is no different than if you were standing on the trampoline raising the mast manually - and the mast wants to come off the ball then too but the pin retains it. You guys just keep telling me it can't be done and I'll actually have to build one!

I agree with Jake. If the bottom "brace" is in fact a roller it will work. As soon as you start winching, the fulcrum becomes that bottom roller. As that fulcrum becomes higher and higher on the mast, the lever (mast) has nowhere to go but up!

I see that this system could raise the mast up to 45 degrees or so, but not much farther. My question is why would you bother with this setup, when a gin pole would be much quicker and bring the mast all the way up? Just turning the boat around on a trailer would be more work than raising the mast by hand.
For those who raise the mast by hand, that's fine, but I've found added safety for me and my wife by having more control of the process when using the EZ-Step.
Jack

Jack, keep in mind my boat is towed backwards so there no added turning it around.

I should have the disc with PIC of the working model tomorrow.

Howard your right, some people have strange ideas how to get things done and the guy you mention should be up for a Rube Goldberg award.

Jake, keeping in mind they both lift the mast to about the same height, I still think the other one will work better. I might spend some time messing around with both ideas. I have a friend who's quite the fabricator and I'll talk him about making a couple mock ups and have a closer look.