Doug I am sailing a SC 17...I am not sure if that still applies to me...after all, you know how Bill Roberts designs everything nearly bomb proof...LOL... I am not doubting your opinion on the Hobie, but I would like to run it by Bill just to see what his take on it is concerning the Supercat...
Regards,
Bob

Bob:

By all means get all the opinions you can, that is what the forums are all about. I am just saying rudders are rudders and slop is slop. We spend a lot of time with shims and adjusting toe in and rudder rake to get everything right. Vibration and wear on parts is BAD. You wanted to have helm as right as you can, why not do everything you can to keep it that way.

Back me up guys. I am I right?

Doug

I was looking at how my TheMightyHobie18 is positioned on my trailer. I tow it bows first and I still have my hulls cantilevered forward of the front crossbeam. My forward hull cradles are under the front crossbeam. It towing it stern first is a concern due to the moment loading of the cantilevered bows, I wouldn't worry about it. That's the lightest part of the boat and will see much more loading when sailing as the forestay bridle imparts it's load to the bows.

Nice real world application of statics, btw. If you do any design work in your career you will be be using it in the future. Keep that textbook. And Strength of materials and dynamics.

Hi Doug
This is what Bill wrote to me concerning trailering my Supercat 17 with the rudders in place....
"Hello Bob,
You have just hit upon the reason the SC rudder system has 1/2" diameter rudder pins. Also the rudder pivot system aluminum castings are thick where the rudder pins pass through to increase the bearing area.
When I was a kid sailing Snipes, the rudder pins were 1/4" in diameter brass. It didn't take more than one summer's sailing for the pivot system to get worn out and sloppy. This experience is why the SC system has large diameter rudder pins with so much bearing area.
Bill"
Doug...You still have a point...wear is wear... Just sounds like my supercat might not be quite as vulnerable to this problem as maybe some other boats...While I will definetly take your suggestion on removing them if traveling any appreciable distance...for going around the corner I am going to leave them in place. Every step I can save in set up just motivates me to use my boat more. In the grand scheme of things more time on the water will probably be more of a factor that a little play in the steering wouldn't you say . I appreciate your insight on the matter, some times obvious problems fly right under the radar.

Best Regards,
Bob

I would take them off if you go in distance. Around the block won't hurt. But long trips will beat them to death no matter what the diameter of the pins. Wear is wear, they are still rubbing together and bouncing up and down. It makes a difference over time, not just a few times.

Doug

Federal Regulations:
Any pole or object that protrudes over the rear of
a vehicle or trailer must be marked with a lighted
red light or with a red flag or cloth. Poles or
objects that protrude 4' or more while operated on
a federal highway (5' or more on state highways),
shall during the period when lights are required,
carry a red light on the rear of the pole or object to
illuminate it. At other times a red flag or cloth, not
less than 16" square for the state and 12" square
for the federal highways, shall be displayed at the
end of the rear projections. If your load exceeds
the maximum width of your trailer by 4" or more,
you must have a 12" square red flag or cloth at
each point where a lighted lamp is required.

Making larger pins and castings may reduce wear there but shocks from bumps will still transfer to other parts of the rudder assemby.

Were the gudgeons also made stronger?

Have the transoms been reinforced by either thickening them or adding a backing plate?

Hey Mike
I last thing I want to start here is a "my cat is stronger than your cat" debate:) ... If you get a opportunity, check out an old Supercat or the newer version, the ARC Cat, when you see one on the beach...they were designed to be used off South Florida in rough ocean conditions and not flinch. The boat could probably be considered overbuilt by most current manufactures standard. So to answer your questions...you bet the other areas are beefed up as well.

Let me make the point again...I agree with you that it makes good sense to remove the rudders when traveling any appreciable distance.

There are a lot of great cats out there of every flavor...each one has it's strong points...I’m not knocking any other boat...all I am saying is strength is one of the Supercat’s main attributes, be it the rudder assembly or most anything else. Is it indestructible? No...Can it be damaged by improper use or neglect...Of course... but its one tough Tom cat!

Regards,
Bob

Since I started this thread... I have an ARC 21,,,bad butt boat, bullet proof rudder system. I hope to learn to sail it to the PN.

Stepping the mast is a real treat, I was thinking that reversing the process would reduce the stress. I am going to try it in my yard,,, I'll eport the results.

Backwards rules forward drools.

Bob, I tow mine about eight miles to the beach with my rudders on. If I'm going far I'll take them off. I have a Nacra system so it's easy to pull the rudders. One bolt and a couple knots.

I think it was you that mentioned crushing you car if you screw up. Don't screw up. If your concerned you can add a roof rack like a Thule. You only need one bar and pad it well. Stick it on when you go sailing and remove it when your done.

Sort of a roof roll bar.

I have had mine pop off a few time even when the pin was in on my Hobie 17. Happens even when you don't screw up. Real scary when it just misses your chin.

Doug

I've had it happen once in 22 years. My H-18, the small tab on the base snapped.