I've got some fiberglass repair to do on my P16. I figured I'd slap some new paint on the hulls as well, but I'm unsure of what to use. I'd like to do some colored striping on the hull as well. I'm aware of basic masking technique and so on, but as far as painting the hulls I'm a bit clueless... Will I need to clear coat them? What type of paint do I use? any preparation/application tricks I should know?

Can anyone point me in the right direction

OK... wow... so I just did a little poking and found out that all of my assumptions on how to fix my hulls were pretty much wrong...

So, I hereby rephrase my question...

I've got some worn hull bottoms and a small but deep "wound" that cuts into the one of the hulls across it's keel that needs to be patched. Can someone reference me to a book or guide or some other information source as to what I need to fix this problem?

Thanks!

www.teamseacats.com

I'm going through a somewhat similar job and keeping it documented on the website. It might help and I'll be glad to answer any questions you have.

Everything on these sites will be helpful.

http://www.westsystem.com/
http://www.epoxyworks.com/

Paint, check out Interlux Perfection, it can be brushed on and you get professional "sprayed" on results.

Bill

When I repaired my Prindle 18 hulls, I found that it made the job a lot eaiser to take the boat apart and mount the hulls upside down on a couple 3' 2x4s. (photo below) After repairing the bottom with thickened epoxy, I sprayed a 2-part epoxy primer on the hulls. After sanding, I sprayed a topcoat of Imron paint. This has held up extremely well. The top decks of my hulls were in good shape and I didn't refinish them, other than cleaning and waxing. Mulit color adhesive backed striping is available and is eaiser than painting them on.
Good luck with your project,
Jack

I have used both Interlux and gel coat, and I recommend gel coat any day over the other and its equivalents. Yes you can brush Interlux on and you will "eventually" get good at tipping it out and making sure it does not blush. Yes Interlux is hard as a rock but that is its draw back. It does and will stratch. When it does you will not be able to buff it out. Sanding it is exhuasting and requires repainting. Further, if you have contured areas better have a good hand because you have only one shot or get out the mega sander. Lastly, it is dangerous to spray without a positive ventilator.

Whereas, gel coat is designed to be sanded and buffed. It is softer. It is forgiving and easy to repair. Sanding and buffing out a new coat is rewarding and therapuetic. Shooting gel coat is not hard and will not kill you like Interlux can. Get over the mystic of using a spayer and go for the gel.

Good Luck

Can you give us all a primer on spraying gel coat? Can you use a low volume sprayer?

What product do you use?
What equipment?
Process?
Tips and tricks?

Thanks

I have a question. Does the interlux paint use a catalyst??
Because if it does not.... it's crap.

Spraying Gelcoat. The best way is to use a pro gun that mixes the MEK in the nozzle.

Second best way is to use a dump gun. This is a very simple gun. The gel is mixed in paper quart cups. These snap onto the gun. You simply flip it over and pull the trigger. If the stuff goes off in the gun it's very easy to clean. I've seen this used to spray Imron with nonskid. There are different size nozzles. They cost around a $100.

The third way would be to go to the Depot and buy a cheap gravity feed gun with as large a nozzle as you can get. However if the gel goes off in the gun you can pretty much kiss it good bye!

Prevals work good for small areas.

No matter how well you spray Gel your going to have to sand it to get it smooth so it's easier for someone with less experience to spray.

Gelcoat is safer to work with than paint???

NO! All the stuff is bad to breathe, get in mucous areas,eyes, mouth and on your skin.

If your going to re-gelcoat a boat I would get the 80 grit out on a board file and sand until I saw glass if your concerned about adding weight to the boat.

If your going to paint, use a quality polyurethane or epoxy paint. If you want to have stripes you can put them on after painting and then have them buried with clear so they don't increase drag.

There's a few other things that I don't have time to explain right now. If you like PM me.

Catman,
Interlux does have a catalyst. Its not crap.

You havent convinced me to spray gel coat, the hassle of buying/renting/borrowing a sprayer is a nonstarter. Add the learning curve on the equipment, learning curve on spraying it on and then you still have to SAND??? No f***ing way my friend.

Plus roll and tip is one level safer than spraying, you dont breath the vaporized product, only the fumes, and if you've got a good respirator, thats not an issue. Also, roll and tip, doesnt require a space suit to keep the vaporized product off your skin/eyes/ears/face/hands/arms/legs or whatever else you left exposed. Just a good mask and good set of eye protection. Roll and tip, toss the roller and clean a brush when you're done or toss the brush. Easy.

I've faired with epoxy/filler, wetsanded with 200grit, and once I paint it (primer and paint) its done. End of story. No equipement issues, no further interaction required. Plus, my BN friend is going to assist me and he's used Interlux before with great results.

Plus paint looks better than gelcoat, gelcoat is dull, who cares if Paint scrathes, its going to scratch on the bottom, I'll never see those. If it gets too scratched up, I'll paint it again in 3 years, or I'll sell it.

Paint is deep and rich looking. The reflection from Interlux is mirror like. You can actually see yourself in it.

No contest on this one.

Bill

I've been looking into this for a while as I plan to fair and paint my hulls within the next year. What I have determined is the following. Gelcoat is great if you are molding a brand new boat. You get a finish as good as your mold and it helps fill in any small voids the fiberglass and resin did not fill to give you exactly the shape of the mold when the boat is new. I'm not a fan of spraying anything seriously toxic in my garage or on my lawn/driveway.

Epoxy paint seems to be the answer for aftermarket paint jobs that will cover the entire hull. With the thinners and paints available it is easier than ever to get a great finish by roll and tip. Plus, the epoxy being harder is what I want for recreational sailing. It will take the beach abuse better. If I have a scratch that goes through the paint (or gelcoat) I will have to sand either one to fair in the touch up. Granted the epoxy will take more sanding but I bet the outcome will be much better than a gel coat patch. How many awful looking gelcoat patches have you seen out there?

Who hasn't made an epoxy repair on thier boat. We are all used to working with this stuff and know how to handle the fumes.

Just my 2 cents

If you guys are so concerned about the health issues. Lack the equipment to spray it (rolling and tipping is not a better way...its just a way of avoiding spraying) Then why not do all the prep work (or better yet let them take it from start to finish as the prep work can make or break the entire look of the new paint job)...and take it to a pro and let them shoot it for you? By the time you screw around working on this project, buying or renting tools, paying retail for the supplies (there is a 40% to 55% markup on some of these paints and supplies)….all you will have done is waste a lot of your time and money for a mediocre result.

Sit down, price the job out...materials (sandpaper/wax remover solvents/sanders to buy or rent/ Cartridge respirator/paint base/reducer/catalyst/a clean, well ventilated area to paint/a large high volume air compressor with good filtration system if you want to spray (hate to tell you but a little 5.6 CFM @90 lbs air compressor ain't going to cut it) etc...Etc... And the time...however long you think it's going to take...multiply that by 3-5. Be honest with yourself and you will quickly see that you could make out a lot better if you worked some OT on your job doing what you do best and pay a pro to paint your boat and let him do what he does best. It's not a question of whether you can do it or not...ask the question is this the smartest way of accomplishing my goal.

Regards,
Seeker

Some people might actually enjoy such projects (I do). It's not always about what's more practical. I have the correct tools and equipment and since I do this kind of work on more than one occasion, the costs are spread out among many projects. These are great skills to learn and have and the more you do them, the faster you are at them. As long as you own a boat, it's going to need something and I take pride in having the knowledge and skill to do it myself.

Jake if you enjoy it by all means have fun...maybe being a professional boat builder all thru the 80's took the romance out of it for me...plus...when you are use to having all the best tools to do the job you get spoiled rotten and don't have much desire to "make do" .

What really kills me now is paying retail for the stuff I use to buy by the pallet load at half off. For instance we would get 55% discount on all Awl grip products...that is a huge savings.
If you would rather sand and paint your boat, than be out sailing on a nice day, who am I to discourage you? LOL...no really... enjoy the experience...its all good. Anything to do with boats is all right in my book.

Regards,
Seeker

I agree with Jake, the pride and satisfaction of doing the job is the reason I chose to build a boat in the first place. So why would I take the best part and let someone else do it. I work with complicated finishes all the time, sometimes they take practice, but usually they come out great.

Plus its always going to be cheaper if I do the job. A brush and a roller is easy and cheap.

The health issues are real, but they are not so scary that I would outsource the work. Just part of the consideration of spraying vs rolling.

Hey seeker, we need stuff to occupy us in the winter when its freezing outside. Build in the winter, sail in the summer. If I lived in Fl, I might be singing a different tune.

Wow.. Thanks everyone for all the tips and advice. I'll be starting my project soon and will post pics and updates as I move through the process...

Thanks all!!

Hey… bvining …I do it too….I have a 23 Seabird CC I am completely rebuilding right now…I can’t think of a time since I was 12 years old that I haven’t been in a middle of some boat project … but I still have to say its not the smartest way to approach the problem…LOL Working on boats is a compulsive behavior I have yet to overcome…just thought I might save someone else from going down the same path…LOL

Winter time is only time its decent to work on them down here…you haven’t lived until you have ground glass out in the sun with protective clothing and a respirator when its 98 degrees in the shade and 100% humidity…LOL…now thats fun

Regards,
Seeker (Im the one with the clip board 1988)



The finished product...

Thats funny Seeker, I guess its all relative.

You havent lived until you wetsand in a unheated barn and it 30 outside. I wear my wetsuit gloves to sand the boat, now thats fun.

We have a saying..."you can always put more on...but you can only take so much off"...LOL

We have a saying "there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing."